drawer that opens easily when pulled from off-center handle

[adrian]

I'm planning a table with a drawer that I expect will generally get opened by a person off to one side of the drawer, so the person will prefer to pull the drawer open using a handle that is at the far side of the drawer front rather than mounted in the center of the drawer front. My drawer dimensions are 14.5" wide x 4.75" height x 16.5" deep.

I'm wondering if anybody has any experience with different kinds of all-wood drawer designs and how well they might work with this sort of action. I have hunted around and identified four possible ways I could make the drawers: the classical way (simple box), NK, side mounted wooden rails on the case, and center mounted wooden rail underneath.

Are any of these options likely to make the drawers work better when pulled open from an off centered handle?

 

[Bigdanny]

Lots of vaseline on the runners and just use one drawer pull mounted in the centre. 14" wide doesnt seem too wide to allow for single pull.
HTH Danny ( I wish this poxy flu would go away)

 

[woodbloke]

... and center mounted wooden rail underneath.

Are any of these options likely to make the drawers work better when pulled open from an off centered handle?

This is the preferred way that Robert Ingham makes his drawers and is well documented in his book. If my reasoning is correct, a central runner means that you've only got half the distance (roughly 7") 'twixt the handle opening the drawer and the point at which the drawer bears on it's supporting runner, so providing it's made accurately, it ought to work - Rob

 

[adrian]

14" wide doesnt seem too wide to allow for single pull.

The drawer will likely be opened sideways by person a facing the drawer side rather than being pulled towards a person who is facing the drawer front. I think this means the user will prefer to be able to pull the drawer from the off-center position. Since I'm trying to design for the expected use rather than force the user to conform to my design, my tentative design is for a 12 inch wide pull that runs most of the drawer width. The user can thus pull from the center or edge as he chooses.

This is the preferred way that Robert Ingham makes his drawers and is well documented in his book.

I haven't heard of Robert Ingham. Am I missing out? Should I get his book? (I prefer books that give techniques and methods and not books that give detailed project instructions.) My reference for center mounted drawer slides is a Fine Woodworking article by Mark Edmundson, July/August 2007 issue.

 

[mickthetree]

what is the design? Modern? classical? Material for construction?

Could you use a push to open mechanism instead?

 

[Benchwayze]

I haven't heard of Robert Ingham. Am I missing out? Should I get his book? (I prefer books that give techniques and methods and not books that give detailed project instructions.) My reference for center mounted drawer slides is a Fine Woodworking article by Mark Edmundson, July/August 2007 issue.

Aidrian

Robert Ingham is a perfectionist woodworker, who works to virtual engineering standards. It's not always my cuppa-tea, but I reckon most of us amateurs can learn from him, and yes, he has a book or two

https://www.westdean.org.uk/CollegeChan ... ngham.aspx

And his book 'Cutting-Edge Cabinetmaking' should interest you.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_nos ... am&x=0&y=0

HTH

 

[adrian]

I would say that I started with a Shaker table idea but I rounded things a little bit, which I guess gives it a modern look (though I'm hazy about these style designations). The long drawer pull mirrors the curved end of the tabletop. The top is marbled claro walnut, the rest mahogany, but with walnut drawer pulls. I have a google sketchup design, which I can produce pictures from...but I'm not sure how I can post it. My web hosting site went away and I haven't gone and found a replacement.

I am not sure I understand how push to open would address the concern which is the drawer binding as it is extended. Presumably the user would push, the drawer would pop out a bit, and the user would have to grasp the drawer somehow to extend it...which would still create the possibility of the drawer binding due to being opened with off-center forces.

 

[Lord Kitchener]

If you want all wood, and you want in to open easily when pulled from the side, then your best/only bet is a pair of decent unndermount drawer runners such as the Blum Tandem series. Preferably without the soft close (Blumotion) as that increases the force needed to open the drawer.