Draper 200mm Cast Iron Table saw £200 ?!?!

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Is it just me or is the NVR laughably oversensitive on this? Lifting the stop cover enough to get a finger on the green button, withdrawing the finger and allowing the flap to drop causes it to, almost imperceptibly touch the red stop button and cause the saw to stop.

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Rorschach":3tvpilpy said:
I don't think that's the problem, there is enough adjustment room, it's just very hard to keep things perfectly aligned while tightening.
I faffed and faffed and faffed some more and finally got it to within 0.25mm after encountering a similar circumstance when re-tightening the darn thing. I think and hope that's close enough, more for my sanity than anything.
Would I be right in thinking there could be that much flex in the blade plate whilst cutting or are they pretty solid?

Nigel
 
Another thing that can make you chase your tail is the arbour washers
These can cause some blade wobble so make sure their clean and have no burrs.
They're meant to be dished/hollowed, only in contact on the outside radius, as they flatten out a bit when the arbour nut is tightened.
Sorry if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs
EDIT... I would also make sure the cabinet base is on level ground as they can deflect causing issues.

Tom
 
Well I am finally all set up, what a lot of work that was. I can't blame the saw too much, some of it was my fault.

Used some foam and tape to improve dust extraction, it's still not perfect but most of it is collected or stays in the body of the saw. Hopefully I can make a zero clearance insert to improve things even further.

Saw runs smoothly and quiet, much quieter than the dust extraction. I did manage to align the blade better after some more effort, alignment is now within a couple of 10ths of a mm, certainly less than 0.5mm.
Sliding table was also a bit of a faff to get running true as to get a square cut you need the fence to be square to the blade but also the table itself needs to be running parallel. I now have the table running to less than 0.5mm runout over it's full travel and the fence is as square as I can make it. After many test cuts and adjustments I succeeded in making my first perfect 90deg cut in both angles.

Oh and factory preset on the blade, bang on 90deg as measured with a digital angle box, quite impressed with that.
 
FYI I have found dust extraction to work better by removing the piece of pipe internally. Less dust seems to escape the saw this way and less builds up inside the casing.

Note though that I have taken steps to plug up as many gaps as I can.
 
Rorschach":2ray8lvc said:
Oh and factory preset on the blade, bang on 90deg as measured with a digital angle box, quite impressed with that.

I also found the preset blade angle to be good with a digital angle box, however making test cuts I kept getting slightly off perpendicular cuts.

I pretty sure I've narrowed it down to the fence, which component of the fence is a trickier question. When locked it gives 0.5-0.9deg slant off perpendicular to the table top, equivalent to ~0.1-0.3mm difference on a 20mm rip cut which tallies with what I see with my engineer's square.

Anyone upgraded the fence system?
 
Campere":zauezrc4 said:
Rorschach":zauezrc4 said:
Oh and factory preset on the blade, bang on 90deg as measured with a digital angle box, quite impressed with that.

I also found the preset blade angle to be good with a digital angle box, however making test cuts I kept getting slightly off perpendicular cuts.

I pretty sure I've narrowed it down to the fence, which component of the fence is a trickier question. When locked it gives 0.5-0.9deg slant off perpendicular to the table top, equivalent to ~0.1-0.3mm difference on a 20mm rip cut which tallies with what I see with my engineer's square.

Anyone upgraded the fence system?

My fence is also just a touch out of square with the table. If the item is flat to the table though I don't see how that could affect the cut?
 
Ah that's a good point. Having not used a table saw before my technique is to wrap my thumb around the outside edge to guide the piece tightly against the fence. Maybe I'm using a little too much zeal.

I'll try ripping in a more forward motion.

Thanks
 
I was looking at the saw today and thinking about the feasability of cutting a hole in one of the extensions to fit a router so I can use the fence and mitre slide for that, not sure on that one yet. Anyway it led me to looking closer at the saw and I saw something which I am not sure if I need to fix or not.
I put a level across the saw and found that while I managed to get the sliding table near perfectly level with the main table, the extension tables are a little higher. Because they have rounded edges I had not really noticed during the build.

There isn't any kind of height adjustment like there is for the sliding table so I guess I will have to remove the brackets and shim them. Question though, is what should I aiming for (assuming perfect is not an option, which I doubt it will be). Do I want the extensions to be slightly higher or slightly lower? Are they higher by design already?
 
I wondered the same about the extension table. It's about 2-3 mm high for me. So far I haven't been bothered about the precision when doing larger boards than use the extension, but it does seem a bit ropey.

Is there a way to get reasonable dust extraction using only the under table hose?
 
Yes I think I am going to have to do something about it. I need to adjust the fence ruler anyway as I somehow managed to set that up wrong and it's reading 2mm out, might have been my adjustments to get the saw lined up with the mitre slot. Problem is everytime you adjust something it throws out half a dozen other things :lol:

I think rather than try to drop the tables I might just add a shim to the rails to drop them instead. Measuring for how thick I need them could be fun though :roll:
 
Does anyone know how to adjust the alignment of the fence ? Mine runs slightly toe in towards the blade. I can’t see any adjustment on the clamp so does this mean I align by adjusting the ruler bar the rail is running on ?


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Got my sliding table perfectly square, the problem was not in my adjustment, I had that bang on, the problem was the clamp bar that makes up one of the fixings, it isn't a perfect fit in the hole and the fence was able to move slightly when pressure was put on it. Whether it moved depended how you held the workpiece. The fix was simple, a wrap of tape around the bar made it a tight fit in the hole and the fence no longer moves. Test cut showed a perfectly square cut so I am happy with that.

As for the table top, I got out the feeler gauges and measured the difference, the extension tables are 0.6mm too high at the front and 0.7mm too high at the back. Not quite sure how I am going to fix this yet.
 
Hi, I'm taking delivery of the saw kit from Yandles tomorrow (extra 40 for the delivery) please keep the thread going! First project is a fire surround from an old hardwood panelled door. I'm looking forward to it. Anyone willing to post a youtube vid showing tips for building and setting it up? Cheers
 
Cthsocial":33x7pe0j said:
Hi, I'm taking delivery of the saw kit from Yandles tomorrow (extra 40 for the delivery) please keep the thread going! First project is a fire surround from an old hardwood panelled door. I'm looking forward to it. Anyone willing to post a youtube vid showing tips for building and setting it up? Cheers

Why did you pay £320 for it from Yandles when it's £250 on ebay with free delivery?
 
LarryS":184sse93 said:
Does anyone know how to adjust the alignment of the fence ? Mine runs slightly toe in towards the blade. I can’t see any adjustment on the clamp so does this mean I align by adjusting the ruler bar the rail is running on ?

I guess you've already figured this out, but yes I found that tapping the runners brought the fence in line. I recommend loosening all of the bolts very slightly (inc extention table) for both runners and gradually tightening them up, tapping everything into alignment as you go.

I considered shimming the fence, but alignign the runners is much better I think.
 
Hi, I sorted it in the end by loosening off he bolts and then using the grub screws to do the alignment until spot on, then tightened up the bolts
 
Rorschach":1kfyx1jp said:
Cthsocial":1kfyx1jp said:
Hi, I'm taking delivery of the saw kit from Yandles tomorrow (extra 40 for the delivery) please keep the thread going! First project is a fire surround from an old hardwood panelled door. I'm looking forward to it. Anyone willing to post a youtube vid showing tips for building and setting it up? Cheers

Why did you pay £320 for it from Yandles when it's £250 on ebay with free delivery?

Who is selling it on ebay - I can't see the saw for sale by anyone for that price?
 

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