Rorschach":1qkyt13z said:NOTE: DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK
Test fitted this morning and I can confirm that a 210mm blade will quite happily fit in this saw. Excellent news for me as I have 3 brand new 210mm blades including a 60 tooth which should be ideal for fine cuts.
ScaredyCat":3ejqc61k said:Rorschach":3ejqc61k said:NOTE: DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK
Test fitted this morning and I can confirm that a 210mm blade will quite happily fit in this saw. Excellent news for me as I have 3 brand new 210mm blades including a 60 tooth which should be ideal for fine cuts.
Good to hear, what's the make / model #'s of blades ?
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Rorschach":3sqcjsv8 said:They are just parkside blades from lidl, designed for their SCMS but happen to be a good fit for the Draper. 210mm, 30mm bore and the kerf is 2.6mm which is almost the same as the stock draper blade and just slightly thicker than the riving knife. Speed rating up to 7000rpm. My set contained 40t, 60t and 80t blades.
ScaredyCat":e3n9waz2 said:Rorschach":e3n9waz2 said:They are just parkside blades from lidl, designed for their SCMS but happen to be a good fit for the Draper. 210mm, 30mm bore and the kerf is 2.6mm which is almost the same as the stock draper blade and just slightly thicker than the riving knife. Speed rating up to 7000rpm. My set contained 40t, 60t and 80t blades.
Looking at the online manual ( https://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdPDF/82385ins.pdf - page 32) for changing the blade, are you seriously expected to wedge a bit of wood, using the blade teeth, to undo and remove the old blade?
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NOTE: DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK
Test fitted this morning and I can confirm that a 210mm blade will quite happily fit in this saw. Excellent news for me as I have 3 brand new 210mm blades including a 60 tooth which should be ideal for fine cuts.
custard":22n4b72s said:NOTE: DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK
Test fitted this morning and I can confirm that a 210mm blade will quite happily fit in this saw. Excellent news for me as I have 3 brand new 210mm blades including a 60 tooth which should be ideal for fine cuts.
Swapping blades from one type of machine to another can be very dangerous. The blade for an SCMS and the blade for a table saw are totally different designs.
For example an SCMS blade can have negative rake for a better quality finish and the workpiece with an SCMS is constrained by a fence at the back. This doesn't apply to a table saw. Also, the required difference between plate thickness and riving knife thickness isn't just a question of the former being thinner than the latter. Some additional tolerance is required as there will inevitably be a degree of run out.
flh801978":3ga3pevw said:A piece of wood will do no damage its a standard way of holding blades
flh801978 said:Sash c
You adjust the 90 degrees of the blade by a collar on the screw which tilts the carriage.
Remove the left hand side cover and you should see the collar loosen it and set your blade to 90 then push the collar up the the carriage and relock it
Phill p. the larger pipe is for connecting the saw chamber to the external coupling
Ian
Thanks Ian... that was a big help. All sorted now.
Ram64":2quwsp0s said:On the subject of blade alignment, I have a 0.5mm difference front to back as measured from the mitre slot at the same tooth. Is this an acceptable tolerance or should I try and adjust it closer?
Thanks in advance
Nigel
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