1/4 inch routers on market.

[Phil Pascoe]

If it's underpowered, presumably you knew it was underpowerd after the first one? Why didn't you buy a 1/2"? :?

 

[Simon_M]

I have a Makita RTO700CX2 kit which is used regularly because it's so light.

I second that, although I have the Makita RTO700CX4 kit - so have the plunge router and two other bases. I use the plunge router base much more than the other two bases. I want more flexibility than just a trim router base.

The Makita is really good especially the low weight, the supplied accessories, "longish" power lead and the separate on/off and speed control and the soft start which all make it easy to operate easily/effectively.

However, two things can be easily overlooked: most 1/4" routers do not plunge as far as 1/2" routers can so may not be suitable for every router table. The number of router bits available for a 1/2" router vastly outweighs a 1/4" and usually a 1/2" router has a 1/4" collet as well.

Low weight is something to consider because more power/options available with a 1/2" etc. also comes with extra weight. So if buying again it would still be a 1/4" one like the Makita.

I did think I could overcome the short plunge of the Makita with an extension. Purchased from Amazon it looked really sturdy. This was a big mistake because using it without a router bit, it immediately turned to a right angle and being off centre the whole tool became difficult to control - gave me quite a fright. Perhaps there are extensions that work that can be recommended e.g. not a "cheapie" made in China. I might try a router table with a thin table insert as an alternative. Suggestions?

 

[Lons]

That was a typo on my part Simon, mine is labelled on the systainer case as an RTO700CX5j. I don't know what the differences are. It has all the bits I think plunge and angled bases etc.,tbh I thought I bought it as a CX4.
Like you I use the plunge base most of the time, not sure I'd put it in a table though.

 

[woodbloke66]

I have the Dewalt -great little router

Same here; not a lot to fault really and IMO the best of the bunch out there - Rob

 

[MikeJhn]

The Draper Expert is about the same size as my Bosch 1/4" which is underpowered compared with the Draper and far more versatile, the Bosch just does not get used anymore, the Draper will take 1/4" bits can't see the need for a 1/4" router: http://www.toolsonthenet.co.uk/EXPERT-1 ... Draper.asp

 

[Simon_M]

Perhaps someone know how to extend a 1/4” router so it can be used safely with a table? Perhaps a 1/2” router is that “accessory” - I might have to ask Santa for one?

For everything else the 1/4” Makita seems “the business” and more than sufficient (for my needs). So Santa can think of something else...

FWIW I’m using the Makita with Trend router bits from a 1/4” set with a couple of “extras” from Erbauer (Screwfix).

 

[Andy1T]

I too have a 30+ year old Elu 177 and a 23 year old 177e still in regular use. I also have a 2012 model Trend T4 ¼" model and I'm not so keen on it. The spindle lock doesn't seem to have a positive lock on the shaft and releases the spindle as the cutter is tightened up. I have to really press the lock button hard as I'm using the spanner. On a couple of occasions a ¼" bit has moved ever so slightly in the collet during use and spoiled my work. There's no fine adjustment either. The motor part can be removed from the base and it has a 43mm (?) end which can be fitted in my drill stand, although I've only used it once like that. I only use it when my Elu is just a bit clumsy for the job in hand, I wouldn't buy it again.

Does anyone else have the problem with the spindle lock?
Couldn't use my little used T4 because I'd had this problem so swapped to a T5 which has a much functional spindle lock but dust collection is completely absent.

 

[Sideways]

I have three Elu mof96e 1/4" routers. All Swiss made.
The best one is my first and oldest one where the collet is operated with a pair of spanners.
Spindle locks seem prone to careless / misuse on most all machines and add a potential point of failure. You need to make a conscious effort not just to engage them but to keep them pressed fully home against the spring, as far as they will go and keep them there.
It's not that spanner flats can't be rounded off but they are simpler and I think generally more robust.