Draper 200mm Cast Iron Table saw £200 ?!?!

[phil p]

Mine came with a an extending grey piece of plastic hose and 2 large jubilee clips which are not shown in the contents.

Anyone know what they are for?

I'm assuming something to do with dust extraction?

Regards
Phil

 

[flh801978]

Sash c
You adjust the 90 degrees of the blade by a collar on the screw which tilts the carriage.
Remove the left hand side cover and you should see the collar loosen it and set your blade to 90 then push the collar up the the carriage and relock it
Phill p. the larger pipe is for connecting the saw chamber to the external coupling
Ian

 

[Rorschach]

NOTE: DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK

Test fitted this morning and I can confirm that a 210mm blade will quite happily fit in this saw. Excellent news for me as I have 3 brand new 210mm blades including a 60 tooth which should be ideal for fine cuts.

 

[ScaredyCat]

NOTE: DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK

Test fitted this morning and I can confirm that a 210mm blade will quite happily fit in this saw. Excellent news for me as I have 3 brand new 210mm blades including a 60 tooth which should be ideal for fine cuts.

Good to hear, what's the make / model #'s of blades ?


.

 

[Rorschach]

NOTE: DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK

Test fitted this morning and I can confirm that a 210mm blade will quite happily fit in this saw. Excellent news for me as I have 3 brand new 210mm blades including a 60 tooth which should be ideal for fine cuts.

Good to hear, what's the make / model #'s of blades ?


.

They are just parkside blades from lidl, designed for their SCMS but happen to be a good fit for the Draper. 210mm, 30mm bore and the kerf is 2.6mm which is almost the same as the stock draper blade and just slightly thicker than the riving knife. Speed rating up to 7000rpm. My set contained 40t, 60t and 80t blades.

 

[ScaredyCat]

They are just parkside blades from lidl, designed for their SCMS but happen to be a good fit for the Draper. 210mm, 30mm bore and the kerf is 2.6mm which is almost the same as the stock draper blade and just slightly thicker than the riving knife. Speed rating up to 7000rpm. My set contained 40t, 60t and 80t blades.

Looking at the online manual ( https://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdPDF/82385ins.pdf - page 32) for changing the blade, are you seriously expected to wedge a bit of wood, using the blade teeth, to undo and remove the old blade?


.

 

[flh801978]

A piece of wood will do no damage its a standard way of holding blades

 

[Rorschach]

They are just parkside blades from lidl, designed for their SCMS but happen to be a good fit for the Draper. 210mm, 30mm bore and the kerf is 2.6mm which is almost the same as the stock draper blade and just slightly thicker than the riving knife. Speed rating up to 7000rpm. My set contained 40t, 60t and 80t blades.

Looking at the online manual ( https://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdPDF/82385ins.pdf - page 32) for changing the blade, are you seriously expected to wedge a bit of wood, using the blade teeth, to undo and remove the old blade?


.

You can do that if you want, mine came with a spanner that fits the blade washer though, worked fine for me though I would recommend a pair of sturdy leather gloves as your fingers are close to the blade. I might extend the handle on mine to make it a bit safer.

 

[custard]

NOTE: DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK

Test fitted this morning and I can confirm that a 210mm blade will quite happily fit in this saw. Excellent news for me as I have 3 brand new 210mm blades including a 60 tooth which should be ideal for fine cuts.

Swapping blades from one type of machine to another can be very dangerous. The blade for an SCMS and the blade for a table saw are totally different designs.

For example an SCMS blade can have negative rake for a better quality finish and the workpiece with an SCMS is constrained by a fence at the back. This doesn't apply to a table saw. Also, the required difference between plate thickness and riving knife thickness isn't just a question of the former being thinner than the latter. Some additional tolerance is required as there will inevitably be a degree of run out.

 

[Rorschach]

NOTE: DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK

Test fitted this morning and I can confirm that a 210mm blade will quite happily fit in this saw. Excellent news for me as I have 3 brand new 210mm blades including a 60 tooth which should be ideal for fine cuts.

Swapping blades from one type of machine to another can be very dangerous. The blade for an SCMS and the blade for a table saw are totally different designs.

For example an SCMS blade can have negative rake for a better quality finish and the workpiece with an SCMS is constrained by a fence at the back. This doesn't apply to a table saw. Also, the required difference between plate thickness and riving knife thickness isn't just a question of the former being thinner than the latter. Some additional tolerance is required as there will inevitably be a degree of run out.

Yep hence why I added a disclaimer. The blades I have are not negative rake and the sizes vary less than 0.1mm from the stock saw blade.

EDIT: Just to be certain I double checked the blades, the 40t and 60t are positive rake, the 80t is actually designed for aluminium and is zero rake. I won't be using that blade.

 

[AJB Temple]

Phil the grey flexible house connects via jubilee clip to an outlet beneath the blade and behind the motor, and the other end connects in the same way to the back of the big port. You need to take the side casing off - just four screws. The jubilee clips are a bit fiddly to get on. You will find that this gives very good dust extraction.

 

[ScaredyCat]

A piece of wood will do no damage its a standard way of holding blades

I've only used a DW745 which has 2 spanners. Never seen the "wedge-a-bit-o-wood" method.


.

 

[Campere]

I've less experience than that, but I've seen a couple of YouTube "pros" attach one spanner then either drag the blade by hand forwards or in reverse to loosen or tighten the blade respectively.

 

[Ram64]

On the subject of blade alignment, I have a 0.5mm difference front to back as measured from the mitre slot at the same tooth. Is this an acceptable tolerance or should I try and adjust it closer?
Thanks in advance

Nigel

 

[flh801978]

Nigel
That’s a easy adjustment covered well in the manual so i’d Go for it and try and get it spot on

Ian

 

[Ram64]

Thanks for that Ian, spot on I will try and make it then.
The blade is spot on at the stops for 90 Degrees, however I had to shim the blade with a piece of card to get my digital angle box to clear the carbide teeth on the somewhat smaller blade.

Nigel

 

[Sash.C]

Sash c
You adjust the 90 degrees of the blade by a collar on the screw which tilts the carriage.
Remove the left hand side cover and you should see the collar loosen it and set your blade to 90 then push the collar up the the carriage and relock it
Phill p. the larger pipe is for connecting the saw chamber to the external coupling
Ian

Thanks Ian... that was a big help. All sorted now.

 

[Rorschach]

On the subject of blade alignment, I have a 0.5mm difference front to back as measured from the mitre slot at the same tooth. Is this an acceptable tolerance or should I try and adjust it closer?
Thanks in advance

Nigel

Even after some fussing, 0.5mm was about the best I was able to manage. The problem is not so much the adjustment as the fact that things shift when you tighten up the screws on the pivots. I started off with 2mm difference though so I thought I did ok.

 

[Ttrees]

Can you not widen the hole/s into a slot to fix this?

 

[Rorschach]

I don't think that's the problem, there is enough adjustment room, it's just very hard to keep things perfectly aligned while tightening.