Dominos and glue..

[No skills]

Greetings all 8)

Is anybody using PU adhesives with dominos? I'm wondering if I can speed up the process by using a 5 minute pu glue rather than my usual pva for some frame assembly's.
Aside from the possible mess (I'm good at mess so don't worry ) will it compromise joint strength to any degree?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I don't use dominos but why should it? I must admit I didn't like PU much but lately I've used more and more of it for the speed.

 

[No skills]

TBH just trying to think of a reason why it would be a problem - the PU's I've used have been a bit thicker than pva, wondering if that would cause any problems with assembly.

 

[petermillard]

Not a fan of PU unless I absolutely have to; I use Polyten PVA as my 'go-to' glue, works really well, fast grab etc...

Recommended.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

The speed it expands I'd have thought that the least of your problems. Especially if a little dampness is entered into the equation.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Polyten? I've just googled that - you'd just as well use Everbuild D4 - the grab and setting time is much the same and it's waterproof and cheaper.

 

[RobinBHM]

We glue both biscuits and dominos with PU.

You need to be careful on qty and placement. Keep pu away from mouldings or awkward to reach areas.

Simple butt joints like a face frame are easy to clean up.

 

[pcb1962]

I've always used Titebond 3 on my dominos, sets quickly and I've never had a joint come apart.

 

[petermillard]

Polyten? I've just googled that - you'd just as well use Everbuild D4 - the grab and setting time is much the same and it's waterproof and cheaper.

Polyten (by Cascamite, btw) is waterproof, and whilst cost isn't too much of a consideration, it's quite economical when you buy it in 5-litre sizes - don't know if D4 is available in that size, a quick Google didn't throw up any likely sources?? If you know of any it'd be a big help if you could post them here.

Thanks! P

 

[MBcarpentry]

I use soudal pro45 p with dominos all the time with no problems at all, but also use titebond 2&3 depends on the situation

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Polyten? I've just googled that - you'd just as well use Everbuild D4 - the grab and setting time is much the same and it's waterproof and cheaper.

Polyten (by Cascamite, btw) is waterproof, and whilst cost isn't too much of a consideration, it's quite economical when you buy it in 5-litre sizes - don't know if D4 is available in that size, a quick Google didn't throw up any likely sources?? If you know of any it'd be a big help if you could post them here.

Thanks! P

I don't know of 5ltr sizes, but it appears to be a couple of quid a litre cheaper anyway. Polyten is water resistant, not waterproof - it's D3.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

We are going a little off track - the OP was about PU. If I were using PU on dominos I'd do the same I do now with biscuits - if I know everything will close up quickly and tight I'd wet the domino, drop more than adequate glue in the mortices and whack it up quickly. It's always worked for me.

 

[petermillard]

I don't know of 5ltr sizes, but it appears to be a couple of quid a litre cheaper anyway. Polyten is water resistant, not waterproof - it's D3.

Got it, thanks - I'll be sure to try some out.

 

[WellsWood]

Having made a mistake or two during glue ups, I'd be surprised if there's any point. Even with normal PVA I doubt I could get a domino joint (or biscuit for that matter) apart again even deliberately after 10 minutes or so. I'd happily drop the clamps off after about 20 under normal circumstances - I don't see anything moving from then on.

 

[custard]

Even with normal PVA I doubt I could get a domino joint (or biscuit for that matter) apart again even deliberately after 10 minutes or so.

+1

The killer is a big glue up, a hot day, "grabby" PVA, dominoes that are maybe fractionally damp and therefore very tight, and a disorganised workshop where the cramps aren't ready and there's been no dry run first.

The piece is assembled but with the joints not quite closed up tight, the cramps are dug out from wherever they were last left, there's some faffing around measuring diagonals to find square, there's more faffing around to get the glue blocks in place, and then when the cramps are tightened up....nothing, it won't budge!

A panicky search for a tommy bar to slip on the sash cramp handles does zero to improve matters, because the PVA (which is actually pressure sensitive) has set. The frantic workman then chases around and finds a dead blow hammer to try and take the piece apart...still nothing! So he finds a lump hammer and starts bashing chunks off the workpiece. Still nothing. The joints won't fully go home and they won't come apart.

If you think I'm making this up then you haven't been woodworking for long!

 

[WellsWood]

Custard, that made me laugh - recognised every word of that!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes, a classic DAMHIKT. :lol:

 

[dc_ni]

Polyten? I've just googled that - you'd just as well use Everbuild D4 - the grab and setting time is much the same and it's waterproof and cheaper.

Polyten (by Cascamite, btw) is waterproof, and whilst cost isn't too much of a consideration, it's quite economical when you buy it in 5-litre sizes - don't know if D4 is available in that size, a quick Google didn't throw up any likely sources?? If you know of any it'd be a big help if you could post them here.

Thanks! P

Going by the Everbuild website it only comes in 1ltr or 25ltr container size:

http://www.everbuild.co.uk/adhesives/wood/D4-Wood-Adhesive

Did find a 25ltr size for a little under £100, so comparable in price to the polyten, from these:

http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.c...7pToPnHn90lQ9zKtbWFSZhFg6nTIG62RoC3qQQAvD_BwE

 

[Rorschach]

I don't see why it would be a problem. I don't like PU glues because of the mess, I use titbond 2 for most jobs especially those where joints will be seen as it's really easy to clean up. PU is good stuff but I restrict it's use to either dissimilar materials or for unseen areas where I don't need to worry about clean up.

 

[Paddy Roxburgh]

Even with normal PVA I doubt I could get a domino joint (or biscuit for that matter) apart again even deliberately after 10 minutes or so.

+1

The killer is a big glue up, a hot day, "grabby" PVA, dominoes that are maybe fractionally damp and therefore very tight, and a disorganised workshop where the cramps aren't ready and there's been no dry run first.

The piece is assembled but with the joints not quite closed up tight, the cramps are dug out from wherever they were last left, there's some faffing around measuring diagonals to find square, there's more faffing around to get the glue blocks in place, and then when the cramps are tightened up....nothing, it won't budge!

A panicky search for a tommy bar to slip on the sash cramp handles does zero to improve matters, because the PVA (which is actually pressure sensitive) has set. The frantic workman then chases around and finds a dead blow hammer to try and take the piece apart...still nothing! So he finds a lump hammer and starts bashing chunks off the workpiece. Still nothing. The joints won't fully go home and they won't come apart.

If you think I'm making this up then you haven't been woodworking for long!

Have you been spying on me?