How to make precision cuts

[colinvansmith]

Hi all,

I have a project im working on at the moment. I have 300 pieces of wood which measure 10mm x 10mm x250mm. I'm trying to cut these into 10mm x 10mm x10mm cubes but having difficulty making accurate cuts. When I use my electric compound mitre saw, the little pieces ping away once cut and are difficult to find and when I try and do them by hand, it takes a long time and sometimes my cuts aren't straight so it's not a perfect little cube. Can anyone give me some ideas of the best way to cut these into cubes.

Many thanks,

Col

 

[ChaiLatte]

Your question goes in two directions. With the mitre saw, you do not say if the cuts are acceptable, only that the pieces disappear.

Buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIVCHI-Tier-Greenhouse-Vegetables-Seedlings/dp/B0D8LC6LV9

Cut two holes in the front flap for your arms and the pinging will be confined to a finite area. Count in your head every time you make a cut and then you know how many cubes you need to retrieve.

You do not have to cut all 300 pieces individually. Tape a few together into a bundle. A 5 x 5 square reduces the count to 12 pieces and even without the tent, all 25 cut off pieces are not going to escape.

 

[Blackswanwood]

I’d hold 5 pieces together flat using parcel tape on the underside. The cubes would then be less likely to fly/easier to locate as they should stay connected when you make the cut.

If you are struggling to make the cuts accurately by hand make a simple mitre box or guide that you can hold the saw against …

https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.u...dXV_UW9IYXRtMSJu73SsP5LSvzu9IAcBoC05sQAvD_BwE

 

[Keithgrif]

1) Set up a sacrificial fence at the back, to ensure proper support for the piece
2) zero clearance slot on the base. Alternatively another sacrificial fence - combine the two fences into one L shaped. ( Don't cut all the way though the base of course)
3) Use a stop block for accurate size and repeatable cuts. If you place the block for a longer cut and add a screw in the face towards the cut you can fine tune the stop block position.

Hope that helps.

 

[HOJ]

Another tip when you make small cuts like this DONT lift the blade until it has stopped spinning, small offcut parts get picked up by the blade and flung around if you lift it out.

 

[TheUnicorn]

1) Set up a sacrificial fence at the back, to ensure proper support for the piece
2) zero clearance slot on the base. Alternatively another sacrificial fence - combine the two fences into one L shaped. ( Don't cut all the way though the base of course)
3) Use a stop block for accurate size and repeatable cuts. If you place the block for a longer cut and add a screw in the face towards the cut you can fine tune the stop block position.

Hope that helps.

that's a great idea for fine tuning a stop block with a screw, never came across that before

Unless you are really into the idea of problem solving how to make this cut, personally I'd consider buying them in ready made

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=10mm+x...10mm+x+10mm+wooden+cube,aps,98&ref=nb_sb_noss

 

[Hypnotic Chimera]

I'd stick the strips, in multiples (10+) side-by-side, to a sacrificial board, with double-sided tape. Either MDF or ply if you have any lying around

Using the stop block with screw idea above as well...

That way you can cut 10mm strips off the board and have multiple cubes (10+) with each cut.

 

[RobinBHM]

that's a great idea for fine tuning a stop block with a screw, never came across that before

I use that frequently for jigs -it allows set ups to be adjusted to within 0.1mm quite easily

 

[Richard_C]

I'd stick the strips, in multiples (10+) side-by-side, to a sacrificial board, with double-sided tape. Either MDF or ply if you have any lying around

Or even a sacrificial sandwich, thin board above and below.

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

You don’t say what TPI blade you are using, I finer TPI blade may not pick up the cubes so easy with a fine blade say a 24 TPI you with have to slow your cut rate or you risk burning the wood

 

[Inspector]

Try directing a shop vac nozzle where the off cuts are. It should suck them up as they are cut. Doing bundles like Chai Latte suggested will make the whole operation go faster.

Personally I would use a table saw, sled and the shop vac. Easier to set up hold downs to control the work and keep the hands away from the blade.

Whatever method you use take frequent breaks to keep your mind fresh. Roughly 20 pieces per stick times 300 sticks is close to 6000 of the little beasties. When your mind is numb it's easy to make mistakes and cube a finger or thumb.

Pete