Domino Jointers Are they really worth it, or just a gimic

[JobandKnock]

So, "thread topics, are they really a gimmick?"

 

[sometimewoodworker]

It is very easy to place two rows of 10mm dowels with precision using a dowelmax jig, it is not so easy to place multiple dominos without using the sloppy setting so it is not suprising that the dowel joints come out stronger. If you could place the Domino's as easy then they would be stronger, as yet I have got some ideas using the FCC tools alignment jig and spacers on the plate but not 100% yet. The placing using the dowelmax is just easy but slow.

The first point is that placing multiple dominos using the tight setting in precise locations is neither rocket science nor is it difficult. It’s how I started using mine. If you can’t be bothered to take the time to be exact or understand the technic for placing them then using the first wide setting on one side in some points just makes a fast job faster.
The second point is that the exact fitting of the domino adds little strength to the joint, as it’s the wide sides of the domino that have the (glue) strength. The rounded ends are a very small area in comparison. When I make a different size domino I don’t bother to round them I just knock off the corners.

 

[TheTiddles]

So, "thread topics, are they really a gimmick?"

I think that’s off topic and shouldn’t be asked

 

[Spectric]

The first point is that placing multiple dominos using the tight setting in precise locations is neither rocket science nor is it difficult. It’s how I started using mine. If you can’t be bothered to take the time to be exact or understand the technic for placing them then using the first wide setting on one side in some points just makes a fast job faster.

I will say that I have tried probably almost everything to achieve what I want, the biggest step forward for 18/22 mm sheet goods is the FCC DAJ, that delivers a precise means of location every time. Putting a single domino into a joint has been acceptable in most cases but when I need two it becomes more difficult, many people will say that the sloppy setting on the 700 is too sloppy, it could be reduced. On the other point gaps in joints cannot be good, if there is a gap then you are reliant on the glue more, with wood to wood contact the loads are directly transfered.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

On the other point gaps in joints cannot be good, if there is a gap then you are reliant on the glue more, with wood to wood contact the loads are directly transfered.

That phrasing suggests that your opinion is that a glue in a wood joint is less strong than the wood.

However all testing proves that for a long grain connection virtually every modern glue is stronger than the wood.

So why is relying on the glue a problem?

If this is a significant concern this suggests that the design of the placement of joints in your objects isn't as good as it could be.

The accepted method is for at least 1 domino joint is set to be narrow on both sides to accurately position the work pieces, my experience is that if I take a little time I can set every domino on the tight setting however if I don't want to take the time for that then I set every one tight on one side then the first tight on the other & the rest on wiggle 1. The first tight domino will guarantee location and that the joint can not slip as it's impossible to shear a domino in a joint (unless the joint design is terrible when I guess there maybe a chance)

 

[Spectric]

However all testing proves that for a long grain connection virtually every modern glue is stronger than the wood.

Yes that is true but wood to wood, these glues cannot bridge gaps and is I think why I read someone suggesting cassymite glue.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Yes that is true but wood to wood, these glues cannot bridge gaps and is I think why I read someone suggesting cassymite glue.

The space at the ends of a domino slot when set on wide add or reduce the strength of the joint by very little it’s such a small percentage of the glue area, filling it with a gap filling glue, even epoxy or a urea formaldehyde glue will add little extra strength.

The need for a dowel to fill the hole has probably skewed your thinking into believing that it’s the only correct way for a joint

 

[Jake]

The need for a dowel to fill the hole has probably skewed your thinking into believing that it’s the only correct way for a joint

I guess a dowel is a peg of sorts.

 

[AlvyChippie]

A very good thread, worth holy resurrection me thinks!

Patents etc, in very late 1990's I had my first (second hand) Virutex (XXXX) planer, them days they were just coming out in to a main stream and it was absolutely acceptable to use hand planer for an hour or two to "shoot a door in", for a carpenter to not to even have an electric planer... ANW, I digress

I was certain Makita copied (or under the licence) produced their most popular electric planer (XXXX, made in Japan), 800w that absolutely taken over the market them days pushing way overpriced Elu (XXXX), Metabo (XXX, made in Germany) and others out...
or was it other way round? Did Virutex copy Makita ? and anyone, could possibly remind me of the models I'm on about?
Thanks!