I have been using a diy wooden scroll saw stand but it vibrates too much. I want to make one (typical 4 leg type) from square tubes and I've been thinking of filling the tubes with concrete for maximum stability. I know it might weight a ton, but it will be on casters so moving it around wont be a problem. But, would not sand work better for dumping vibrations better than concrete?
DIY vibration free scroll saw stand
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whatknot
Established Member
What sort of saw (make/model) are you using?
AES
Established Member
I have the same machine, and although I don't have as much vibration as you clearly do, I do suffer some. I'm 99% sure that the reason for this is that although I have the machine bolted to a pretty solid bench, the bench is mounted on castors (that type where the "wheel" looks like a solid rubber ball). I can't do away with the castors due to my shop set up, it must be moveable, but I will try different castors to see if that reduces the problem. But I'm not rushing because my vibrations only occur at a couple of certain "sweet" spot speeds (should that be "sour spots"? ;-) ) so I can easily work around this by changing speed slightly.
I must say that the EX series of machines is well-known for being vibration-free, and on the sample machine I tried before buying, which was not bolted to the bench at all, there was virtually NO vibration. So I GUESS your vibration is coming from your castors, just like mine.
So I'm again guessing that there's little point in making a new stand for it, whatever dampening material you put in it, if you're going to continue to mount the stand on castors. Assuming your existing stand doesn't wobble at all, I'd first try removing the castors and see what that does to the vibration - ideally the best way to remove vibration (assuming the stand is solid enough) is to bolt the stand feet to the floor, plus add two bolts somewhere higher up, into a wall. But like me that obviously doesn't allow the stand and machine to be moveable! Hence the idea about trying no castors then different castors as a test before going any further.
Please also note that another member here (I'm not sure, but think it was Aramco) had similar problems but solved them by putting his stand on top of something called cow mats. I don't know (I'm not a farmer) but I assume that these will be very thick rubber mats used by dairy farmers for the cows to stand on in the milking parlour or something - but that's just my guess!
HTH - no point in making a new stand if that's not the cause of the vibration
I must say that the EX series of machines is well-known for being vibration-free, and on the sample machine I tried before buying, which was not bolted to the bench at all, there was virtually NO vibration. So I GUESS your vibration is coming from your castors, just like mine.
So I'm again guessing that there's little point in making a new stand for it, whatever dampening material you put in it, if you're going to continue to mount the stand on castors. Assuming your existing stand doesn't wobble at all, I'd first try removing the castors and see what that does to the vibration - ideally the best way to remove vibration (assuming the stand is solid enough) is to bolt the stand feet to the floor, plus add two bolts somewhere higher up, into a wall. But like me that obviously doesn't allow the stand and machine to be moveable! Hence the idea about trying no castors then different castors as a test before going any further.
Please also note that another member here (I'm not sure, but think it was Aramco) had similar problems but solved them by putting his stand on top of something called cow mats. I don't know (I'm not a farmer) but I assume that these will be very thick rubber mats used by dairy farmers for the cows to stand on in the milking parlour or something - but that's just my guess!
HTH - no point in making a new stand if that's not the cause of the vibration
aramco
Established Member
hi just round to reading your post, the cow mats aes mentioned are thick one inch solid rubber and are quite easy to cut you can get them from any agricultural suppliers.. I was using a Record Power 16 in eventually I did make another bench, but it was to accommodate a Axminster trade es 30 and I had to cut holes in the mats to stand it on the floor, as i was experiencing vibs again , didnt work so will have to put the cutouts back, it was 2 inch square tube and 1 in angle and flat bar its dammed heavy ,I also had to swap the top which is 2 inch thick worktop it is screwed down at the moment but soon - hopefully - I will bolt the lot together. I am still getting some vibs especially at fast speed so slowed every thing down also works wonders on blade life too. I thought it was only me that had these type of problems guess not.
John
John
whatknot
Established Member
I would have replied earlier but didn't select the notify box :-(
All I can say is I would assume there is something seriously wrong with your EX21
There are plenty in use but I haven't heard a lot of people reporting vibration problems
I use an Axminster AWFS18 which sits atop the stand made for it (OE) I have never got around to bolting it down as frankly it doesn't really need it, its never moved a fraction despite a lot of use
I would look for problems with your saw, have you lubricated it at the relevant points? any bearing on the way out?
I haven't used an EX21 but would not expect huge vibration on what most would consider a high end machine
All I can say is I would assume there is something seriously wrong with your EX21
There are plenty in use but I haven't heard a lot of people reporting vibration problems
I use an Axminster AWFS18 which sits atop the stand made for it (OE) I have never got around to bolting it down as frankly it doesn't really need it, its never moved a fraction despite a lot of use
I would look for problems with your saw, have you lubricated it at the relevant points? any bearing on the way out?
I haven't used an EX21 but would not expect huge vibration on what most would consider a high end machine
Yojevol
Clocking on
I've recently joined the scrolling community with the intention of getting into clock making. I managed to acquire a half price, almost new AWFS18. My first attempts using the short stroke were trouble free with it just sitting on the bench. I then tried the long stroke and the m/c started bouncing around terribly. Variation of the speed didn't really help so I decided to bolt it down on my fairly flimsy side cupboard surface - no help, just made it louder! I then decided I needed a more solid support, but the only location available would not allow it to be permanently bolted down. So the next plan was to bolt it to a piece of 32mm MDF which could be clamped to the solid base when required. I also included some bits of anti-vibration matting. This arrangement has proved very successful with the bonus that it doesn't even need clamping.
Brian
PS - all clock gears now cut
Brian
PS - all clock gears now cut
aramco
Established Member
welcome to the forum and have fun because that's what it is all about.
John
John
AES
Established Member
+1 welcome. This is a great place to hang out. I too want to make a clock "one of these fine wet days"!!!
Can we have pix of how you get on please?
Can we have pix of how you get on please?
I´m back after almost 2 weeks off due to illness. By diy wooden stand I have been using I mean small pallets screwed together . it is very heavy, but very unstable, that´s why I´m thinking about making a metal one - no screws, only welds.
To be honest, I´ve never checked my saw for loose screws and not even lubricated anything since I got it. I will have a look at it and then I will try to put in on concrete floor and run it to see if it makes any difference. I´ll make a video.
. it is very heavy, but very unstable, that´s why I´m thinking about making a metal one - no screws, only welds. To be honest, I´ve never checked my saw for loose screws and not even lubricated anything since I got it.
I will have a look at it and then I will try to put in on concrete floor and run it to see if it makes any difference. I´ll make a video.I checked my saw for any loose screws or anything that would need fixing. I found nothing (except dirt). I cleaned everything and hopefully lubed everything I needed to. I then put the saw on concrete floor and ran it on different speeds. It would not move a tiny bit. I was shocked how stable it is so I it must be my wooden stand that is making it vibrate. I just need to come up with an idea on what kind of stand I should make. The saw has 4 bolting points, but I´d like to have a 3 leg stand as it would stand still on uneven floor. Hmmm...
I bought the Axminster metal stand when i got my EX30 and once set up its solid and zero vibrations....I knew your saw wouldn't be the problem as they are so well made.
I bought a very solid folding dog grooming table like this recently https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Folding-Adju ... SwqW9ZYMku and was very surprised at how solid and well built it is AND thought it would make an ideal scroll saw table plus the arm can be used to suspend a Dremel tool with flexible shaft and that is also very solid bit of kit. I have been using them sat outside my workshop with my smaller scrollsaw on and worth every penny.
I bought a very solid folding dog grooming table like this recently https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Folding-Adju ... SwqW9ZYMku and was very surprised at how solid and well built it is AND thought it would make an ideal scroll saw table plus the arm can be used to suspend a Dremel tool with flexible shaft and that is also very solid bit of kit. I have been using them sat outside my workshop with my smaller scrollsaw on and worth every penny.
AES
Established Member
It's no problem to bolt at 4 points onto a stand that's only got 3 legs. The "tabletop" must only be big enough to take the 4 bolting points of the saw. Make sure that the "tabletop" is then firmly bolted to the "3 point" frame (AND make sure the "tabletop" is good thick dense material) and way you go!
Thanks for suggestion AES. I gave it some thoughts and did a (trail and error) drawing in sketchup. First I thought I´d make the bottom triangular but as I was drawing it, I got a better idea for a rectangle shape. It would definitely give the stand a better shape and I could cover it with plywood easier if I wanted to. All legs would be 10 to 15cm offset to the top (front to back and the front ones are to the sides as well). I plan on making it out of 40x40x4 mm sqare iron but it may make it too heavy so 40x40x3mm is a "lighter" option. Any (other) ideas?
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finneyb
Established Member
I'd use the top one, otherwise you would hit your feet on the bottom square frame.
Brian
Brian
I guess you mean to use the top one with the one leg facing towards me? If so, that would not allow me to have drawers under the saw, which I want to make. I plan to use the side with two legs as the front. With the saw mounted, it would push me away from the stand so my toes would be some where in line where the legs touch the floor. I´ll give it a check while building it and if the bottom square is really in the way I can move it a bit higher.
AES
Established Member
Sorry, I've only just seen this (must have been sleeping!). Of the 2 shown I prefer the top one, purely from the looks, but understand from the above that you want drawers under, so the bottom drawing makes more sense I guess.
Whichever way round you build it though (single leg at back or front) it's very important IMO that you leave enough space underneath and in front to get yourself close up to the table - I presume you'll be sitting, not standing? This shouldn't be difficult though, as on my machine (and I guess yours is the same?) the front edge of the cutting table is quite a long way in front of the 2 front hold down bolts.
The only other point that springs to mind is that the sections you specify (40x40) are maybe a bit overkill - I THINK 30x30 would be fine?
Last point, are you planning to mix the finished table to the floor and/or walls, or will it be moveable?
Whichever way round you build it though (single leg at back or front) it's very important IMO that you leave enough space underneath and in front to get yourself close up to the table - I presume you'll be sitting, not standing? This shouldn't be difficult though, as on my machine (and I guess yours is the same?) the front edge of the cutting table is quite a long way in front of the 2 front hold down bolts.
The only other point that springs to mind is that the sections you specify (40x40) are maybe a bit overkill - I THINK 30x30 would be fine?
Last point, are you planning to mix the finished table to the floor and/or walls, or will it be moveable?
I have tried cutting while sitting but it wasn´t comfortable for me. The stand is designed to be used while standing. That way I feel I have much more control in my hands and I feel relaxed.
Yep, I thing Excalibur and Axminster saws are like 99% the same.
I choose 40x40x* because that was the width of the bolting points and I also had some left overs of the size that I could use. The weight should be around 35kg, a bit more than the saw itself. I´d rather have it heavy, as I don´t think it will be moved much. So no casters so far. Angle iron on the bottom of the legs for hight adjustments, with some kind of floor friendly set screws should be fine.
Yep, I thing Excalibur and Axminster saws are like 99% the same.
I choose 40x40x* because that was the width of the bolting points and I also had some left overs of the size that I could use. The weight should be around 35kg, a bit more than the saw itself. I´d rather have it heavy, as I don´t think it will be moved much. So no casters so far. Angle iron on the bottom of the legs for hight adjustments, with some kind of floor friendly set screws should be fine.
AES
Established Member
OK, all clear, good luck with it (lets have a photo when it's done please).
