@AES I've been looking for the sticky you mention about scroll saw blades, but can't seem to find it even using a search. Is this still on the forum?
It’s excellent, it’s my go to too. I also visit Village University quite a lot too@TomW that is a great scrollsaw pattern catalog. Over 3700 patterns. Will get some practice on some of those,
Cheers
It's a bit of an awkward question since different saws follow completely different patterns from an electrical standpoint. The simplest case would be a model with a universal motor fed directly from AC. A rheostat would theoretically work but you'd need a big one, you'd lose torque at low speed and it would be very inefficient, lots of waste heat. A chopper similar to a domestic incandescent light dimmer would be better all round. In fact I haven't given the matter much thought but at first sight I can't see why a dimmer wouldn't work in that situation.just an ask......may be of interest to others......
just days before I left France a lady asked me to take away her husbands scroller......
I'm sure it's a simple cheapo machine but what the ****.....
Question,
as it's a low HP machine is it easy to make it variable speed with a reostat switch....?
or whatever.....how would u do it.....?
mine wont get used a lot but just in case it comes in handy....
It's a bit of an awkward question since different saws follow completely different patterns from an electrical standpoint. The simplest case would be a model with a universal motor fed directly from AC. A rheostat would theoretically work but you'd need a big one, you'd lose torque at low speed and it would be very inefficient, lots of waste heat. A chopper similar to a domestic incandescent light dimmer would be better all round. In fact I haven't given the matter much thought but at first sight I can't see why a dimmer wouldn't work in that situation.
At the other end of the spectrum you have synchronous (induction) motors. As a general rule these are higher end models but there are exceptions. Speed control of those means powering them from a different frequency supply. In practice that means creating some semblance of DC first and then re-synthesising an AC supply at the appropriate frequency.
It's doable but decidedly non-trivial. I do have a background in electronics and while I am not volunteering I'd ballpark it at a day's work and a BOM of £50 in qty 1. The price in particular is finger in the air stuff, half the estimate is capacitors and I haven't done the sums to work out what is needed.
Hello! I was on the same situation as you. I didnt know exactly which one I should buy. I don't want spend much money for the first time. So I looked for a saw with a speed control and multiple saw blades wich I can make in it. I decided me for a Scheppach. I know well that many say it is absolutely no go, but I can say I'm very happy with it and the blades I remove faster than anyone other machine. I had to change the guide to my self made guide. It cost me 20 € an Alu wich one I could very good handle myself with my machines I had. An it clamps now perfect and the machine must be screwed on a table to reduce vibration.Danke, @AES, wie es scheint, muss ich bei den meisten Dingen mehr Geld ausgeben . £250 ist mein Budget im Moment, also muss ich meinen Zeh auf diesem Niveau eintauchen, und wenn der Fehler wirklich beißt, habe ich genau gelernt, was ich brauche und warum ich eine wesentlich teurere Maschine brauche. und wird dann eher geneigt sein, Geld auszugeben.
Ich habe mir Scrimpers sehr nützliche "Warum mehr bezahlen"-Videos und andere von ihm angesehen und werde dieses Forum nach weiteren Informationen durchsuchen. Ich werde auch nach weiteren Uhrmachervideos suchen und nach Plänen suchen, danke für Ihren Rat.
In der Zwischenzeit, wenn jemand hier mit guten oder schlechten Erfahrungen mit preisgünstigen Dekupiersägen antworten möchte, wäre das sehr nützlich, um meine Suche einzugrenzen.
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