Desk, drawers and shelving

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tezza111

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Hi All

Made this recently from Mdf and birch plywood for the drawers. Hand painted. Pretty pleased with it.

This was the first job that I'd made full with the aid of Polyboard design software. Exported to DXF to display to the customer in Sketchup. The real benefit of something like Polyboard is not only does it give all the cutting lists but enables you to build cabinets and whole projects very easily (much much quicker and easier to learn than sketchup).

Tel
 

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Hi Stu.

Ive been a professional decorator for 20 years. Ive read alot here about sealing etc. Over the years I've settled on the following for finishing MDF. Edgband 0.6mm tape....... No rubbing down of edges etc, sealing or dust and a much better quicker finish.
2 coats of acrylic primer. Fine foam roller applied. Layed off with brush if customer wants that. De-nib 120.
2 coats of acrylic eggshell denib 180.

Hope that helps.

The software has changed the way I work. A fairly small learning curve (exports to sketchup) and a great website of video tutorials and lots of other resources at wooddesigner.org

best of luck

Tel
 
Thanks Tel

Few questions, if you don’t mind, please.

• What brand edge banding do you use?
• What glue do you use to attach the edge banding?
• What brand paints do you use/recommend?
• Any particular preferred suppliers you can recommend?
• You mentioned laid off with a brush instead of roller finished. What’s the benefit of that, and why would a customer request?
• Was the final coat applied by roller or brush?

Sorry about the number of questions, but I’ve got a few projects coming up at home, so hoping to end up with a nice finish.

Cheers
Stu
 
No worries Stu

I use paint grade edgebanding from edgeband uk
no glue required as it is pre-glued. Just an iron and a bit of elbow grease. Cut the edges with a stanley knife or similar. Takes a little bit of practice, but is easily done eventually. Or make life easy and buy the virotex or fastcap tools for trimming ends and then along the length. In my opinion it makes for a better cut than a blade and is much quicker.

Paint can be either Johnstones or Dulux. Always trade paint never shed paint. I always use waterborne which is quick drying and non yellowing unlike many oil based paint. It also is less toxic and easier to clean up. Avoid farrow and ball as it does not dry properly and is patchy at best. Johnston's do a decent matching service.

Suppliers. I get all my parts pre cut by a local timber merchant with beam saw. Precision is unrivalled and I am not interested in cutting mdf for dust reasons and the shear boredom of it. Even with a festool track saw it does not make sense to cut this stuff yourself. I get my sheet goods cut and delivered either to my workshop or direct to the jobsite.

Laying off is a term used to define the technique used to 'finish' the brush marks in paint work. It means to very lightly lay the brush over the paint work in one final direction with the least amount (usually) of pressure that you can to eliminate or disguise the brush marks. It has a positive value in that some people do want to see the very slight brush marks left, which in turn give the furniture a feel of hand made and more importantly hand painted, which in turn can be important if you are working in more period properties. Its all subjective though. If you work quick..you can apply with foam roller and gently lay off with brush, but I find the foam roller gives a very good finish, albeit a very light stippled effect.

Final coat is applied by roller and not laid off. I generally paint all the parts flat before assembly, with a final coat after assembly. I wouldn't dream of putting 4 coats of paint on something like this after installation with all those small cubby holes! That would drive me mad. Much easier to paint it flat and yields a much better quality finish.

Hope that helps Stu

Tel
 
That looks fantastic. Do you use the free version of polyboard and if so how do you find it? The pay versions look a little dear
 
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