DBT85s Workshop - Moved in and now time to fit it out

[DBT85]

As I say, my work is regulated, so I would have engineer calcs done for the structure, in any case I would be inclined to put collar ties on in that section, with bolts and star washers in between any meeting faces, + plus a couple of 4.5mm galv nails.

Whist it makes a good space for storage, take it from me, once you start storing stuff up there, you really don't need it any more.

Catching up on you last post don't spoil it all be trying to recylce old bricks that have been lying around, more than likely be all different sizes, covered in algae, and possibly frost damaged, & if you haven't done much brick laying could be very challenging.

Oh it's OK, the bricks that are here that I'd use are all good clean. One batch of about 210 still have the plastic wrap on.

Thanks for the other details too.

 

[MikeG.]

I'd respectfully disagree with Hoj about the star washers. They make the situation worse, not better, in that they prevent a proper mating of the 2 timber surfaces. No building inspector around here asks for them any more. You can put collar ties in that section if it makes you sleep easier, but you don't need them.

 

[Inspector]

I assume the construction adhesive that comes in caulking tubes is available to you. It would be better than the star washers. Same applies to using it in addition to fasteners if you are building the lintel/headers out of 2x stock.

Pete

 

[HOJ]

I'd respectfully disagree with Hoj about the star washers. They make the situation worse, not better,

I used the wrong terminology, meant Toothed timber connector as in :

Are they not used anymore? has been a few years since I used any, most "rooves" I work on now are bought in trusses or Easijoists types.

 

[DBT85]

A thought occurs, how do I seal the incoming wiring conduit to the DPM, since its got to go through it?

 

[MikeG.]

I'd respectfully disagree with Hoj about the star washers. They make the situation worse, not better,

I used the wrong terminology, meant Toothed timber connector as in :

Are they not used anymore? has been a few years since I used any, most "rooves" I work on now are bought in trusses or Easijoists types.

Yep, they're the things I was talking about. The body of the washer keeps the two pieces of timber apart, so you get rocking, and reduced resistance to twisting etc.

 

[MikeG.]

A thought occurs, how do I seal the incoming wiring conduit to the DPM, since its got to go through it?

Yep, it's always a beauty, that one. I think ultimately you just have to accept a lack of perfection. You cut an under-sized cross through the plastic, squeeze the conduit through from underneath, then tape the upstanding bits of plastic to the conduit. Nice theory!! The conduit has inevitably been pushed through a muddy trench, so is dirty, slimy and wet. It may also be ribbed. Good luck sealing that.

 

[DBT85]

Slates ordered from roofing superstore, thats another £815.57, have to get the 600x600 from elsewhere as they wanted 70 days. Selco have them so me and the kid will pop out in a bit. Oddly they sell the ridge end caps but nobody can get them at the moment, so I ordered 2 more normal ridge tiles and will change to end caps when I can.

90mm Circular mesh spacers, ties and tool have also arrived.

A thought occurs, how do I seal the incoming wiring conduit to the DPM, since its got to go through it?

Yep, it's always a beauty, that one. I think ultimately you just have to accept a lack of perfection. You cut an under-sized cross through the plastic, squeeze the conduit through from underneath, then tape the upstanding bits of plastic to the conduit. Nice theory!! The conduit has inevitably been pushed through a muddy trench, so is dirty, slimy and wet. It may also be ribbed. Good luck sealing that.

Ah fine, so don't sweat it then. Mine should at least be clean.

Try and tape with dpm tape or since its ribbed and stuff just gaffa it on?

 

[Sheptonphil]

A thought occurs, how do I seal the incoming wiring conduit to the DPM, since its got to go through it?

Yep, it's always a beauty, that one. I think ultimately you just have to accept a lack of perfection. You cut an under-sized cross through the plastic, squeeze the conduit through from underneath, then tape the upstanding bits of plastic to the conduit. Nice theory!! The conduit has inevitably been pushed through a muddy trench, so is dirty, slimy and wet. It may also be ribbed. Good luck sealing that.

Has nobody produced a rubberised disc/cone patch you can stick over a small hole in the DPM with an upstand specially designed to seal to conduits? You can’t just produce extra DPM around the cut to secure to a tube Without rucking everything up, but an add on cone would solve the problem.

 

[DBT85]

So I've got 2 25mm DG units for windows in the cow shed (no longer inhabited), 96x175 and 96x114. Will draw them up and see how it looks as they might be too big. The seals have likely gone but they'll fill a hole until I replace them.

I thought I could use the bricks we have stored, but the majority are imperial sizes and reclaimed from the conversions that went on on the farm, so the only clean ones are metric and I'm at least 100 short. Savings elsewhere will cover 300 bricks.

EDIT: 312 Clayton Red Multis added to my order at the merchant. 68p per inc vat. Only need 290 but they had 312 sitting on a pallet so I just took the lot.

 

[DBT85]

Ordered my ridge, but they don't have any of the 175*38 featheredge left and might not get any for 3 plus weeks.

The ridge is a finger jointed job from Sweden or something. Still c24. Didn't know that was a thing but from reading online more and more projects are calling for longer and longer beams. This place can make them upto 13m long!


The first 28 tiles are also here. In the boot of my car! Doubles from selco as roofing super ultra amazing warehouse wanted 70 days.

Hooefully this bloke will message me tonight about making this chuffing great hole in my lawn!

 

[Sheptonphil]

Hooefully this bloke will message me tonight about making this chuffing great hole in my lawn!

Like a five year old waiting for Santa

“Is he here yet?”

 

[HOJ]

Has nobody produced a rubberised disc/cone patch you can stick over a small hole in the DPM with an upstand specially designed to seal to conduits? You can’t just produce extra DPM around the cut to secure to a tube Without rucking everything up, but an add on cone would solve the problem.

There are products out there, search for Passive House Airtight Grommets.

 

[DBT85]

Hooefully this bloke will message me tonight about making this chuffing great hole in my lawn!

Like a five year old waiting for Santa

“Is he here yet?”

Ha something like that. I don't really mind as the stuff doesn't arrive till Friday, but I am hoping to actually start the painful process of moving 13 tons of aggregate 30 yards on Friday. If the hole isn't dug I'll certainly have less to do! I could cut up my blocks I suppose ha.

I hoping (praying) that the guy doing the hole also has something that can lift these bags for me and move them to the site, as that would save me a ton of time and back death.

 

[DBT85]

I think I may have made a minor mistake. I ordered 135 degree ridge tiles, but I have a 25 degree roof. So that's a 130 degree ridge, so I should have gone a size smaller and got the 120 degree tiles?

In other news, my man is arriving with a digger tomorrow morning!

EDIT:

So this morning I got a call. Your tiles are on the way, I'll be there in 5 minutes as I'm based round the corner! The pallets last leg was from less than 1 mile away.

Anyway, yes I ordered 135 degree tiles for my planned 25 degree roof. On top of that I also ordered graphite ones (just because they didn't have any others available and nor does anyone else). After receiving the order this morning the delivery note had a number for Cembrit on so I called them. The lady was very helpful and said that they do make them in different colours but its only been in the last month that you could get them in the UK, so thats why nobody seems to give colour options. She gave me all the codes and also confirmed stock of the end caps all in the 120 degree and black colour.

Then on to roofingsuperstore who so far have been similarly helpful, taking the new order codes to try and get me the things I actually need, and arrange return of the ones I don't. It'll likely cost me a bit but hopefully less than buying all new ridge tiles from elsewhere (everyone else wants £14 each, roofing superstore only wanted £8).

Oddly, Roofgiant (the only place that uses the manufacturer product codes on their site) want £205 for the tiles and end caps I need but its free delivery. Roofing superstore only want about £110 but want to tack on £75 delivery on even just 1 ridge tile. Hopefully this will all be sorted soon without too much cost to myself for my own error. I have no idea where I got the need for 135 degree ridges from. Stupid.

More importantly, its 9:15 and my digger isn't here.

With 120 degree ridge's on the way I just need to decide on weather I stick to 25 degrees or go up to 30 which was my original idea.

 

[DBT85]

Trees are gone, digging underway.

Chuffing warm out there today.

The ground is so hard that 25cm down a stake pushed down by myself barely indents the surface.

 

[DBT85]

A successful day all in. Richard arrived around 10 to start working and so the camera started to roll. Below is the time lapse if anyone wants to watch a hole get made. Couple of minutes long.

First out came the trees as seen above, then we marked out and he got digging. We're on a slight slope so one side is deeper than the other. It was pretty hard going as we were just at the point in the ground that it was a little tougher to dig apparently. Had I wanted a hole 2" deeper it would have been easier.

The clay is so hard, but as you can see life finds a way and its peppered with roots. The Birch trees in particular were particularly stubborn.

I've just been out with some line and stakes and my little laser level to get an idea in the morning of how far out it is across the whole area. There are always highs and lows but its looking pretty good. Richard has also pledged to help lift the bulk bags round from the delivery site to the hole, so this weekend I might not actually exhaust myself entirely barrowing 12 ish tons of aggregate 30 yards. I do plan to hire a whacker plate and laser level for the weekend so I can get it all prepped.

I shall call the concrete place tomorrow morning and hopefully get booked for Wednesday. its possible it might be ready Monday, but since I can't be sure and wouldn't want to cancel on the morning itself, Wednesday it'll have to be. How long would I need to wait before starting the brickwork? Friday? Saturday?

Pics

Video
https://youtu.be/8d0dv_7s-90

 

[DBT85]

I've drawn it up with the 2 large windows that are kicking around here. 960x1750 and 960x 1140. May be too large for that 4x6 lintel??

Thought they'd look too big but its not too bad. Given though that I can just order windows any size I want (and would eventually have to replace these dead ones anyway) I might just not bother with them at all.

Large windows

Smaller windows

 

[Sheptonphil]

I've drawn it up with the 2 large windows that are kicking around here. 960x1750 and 960x 1140. May be too large for that 4x6 lintel??

Thought they'd look too big but its not too bad. Given though that I can just order windows any size I want (and would eventually have to replace these dead ones anyway) I might just not bother with them at all.

Large windows

Smaller windows

Large windows are probably nice, but that’s a whole lot of real estate of wall lost.

The ground hole Looks massive, a wheelbarrow would have been depressing carting all the aggregate across, one barrow, tip, no impression whatsoever, a couple of hundred times good old Richard. =D>

 

[Inspector]

Nothing stopping you from framing in the opening and sheath it over. When you have the cash cut through and put in the windows.

Pete