Custom MFT top

[Spectric]

I started in one corner and worked my way to the opposite corner.

That is logical and how I did it,

 

[Spectric]

The accuracy is good but it is the fit that is different, outermost holes are noticably tighter than the inner ones and so have been playing. There are a lot of variables, the issue with the parf is that you have a long drill with a drill attached and any movement at that end is amplified at the cutting face, so a combination of drill, person and extraction. With the router you are held in place by the bush, pushing the router down helps stability and you get same fit holes anywhere. So back to parf, I hung my power drill up with a flexy drive and powered through a footswitch, this removed the weight and bulky drill from the drill bit and I only had a lightweight chuck to handle, this gave better fit holes than previous so technique and drill make a difference.

 

[ian33a]

Thanks for all the responses guys. I just received my bench dogs gear yesterday, I think I'd better play with standard size MFT for a month or so before figuring out my custom size. Essentially I think the standard depth (718mm) is fine, I just want the 1400mm to allow a little more room to play.

Not sure if I should start another thread here but I'm having trouble setting the bench dogs gear up. I bought the rail square which seems to be spot on, no issues there. It's the fenceM2/rail dogs set up that is foxing me. I assumed there is no calibration necessary but my cuts are way off. Any tips for this set up? I figured the fence/fencedogs coupled with rail dogs/b collars would just slot it, tighten up and be square to the holes?

Confused and a bit disappointed, I then put the old Festool MFT rail back on, moved the factory stops and squared that up (I copied Peters method from his video about changing his old top). I used a very accurate Woodpeckers straight edge up against X2 dogs. Used my feeler gauges, all good. The cuts are off in exactly the same way! All I can assume is that the holes in the table are not accurate as both methods rely on them.

Any tips? If the holes are the issue then I could get a new top but I've already spent £350 + on bench dogsUK stuff so thought it worth asking before spending even more cash. The UJK Valchromat top claims to have 'perfectly aligned holes' but who knows if that's true. Or I could buy the Part MII for not much more. God only knows what's more accurate. You'd assume CNC but I guess it depends on who's doing it. Plus I don't even know if the holes are the problem!

Any tips would be greatly appreciated, I don't want to be regretting this purchase Dom

I have the square as well as the 1400mm fence and it has been spot on when installed on a Parf II array of holes. If you haven't been here, you might like to watch this video and a few of the other ones that Andy has done:

Benchdogs Mk2 Fence system - Review - YouTube

There isn't any calibration aside from setting the skinny ruler underneath the place where the rails sit. I didn't quite get mine right and took a slither out of my rail with my TS-55. Not the end of the world, but be careful.

and the picture above shows the dogs and a rail installed in the MFT's in my home made bench. The MFT array is contiguous between the two inserts so I can extend the grid for about 1.5 metres if I wish. To be honest though, the benchdog system allows you to place the fence dogs wherever you wish so such a long contiguous array isn't necessary. What is necessary though, in my case, is for the rows to be exactly aligned on each MFT.

I spent several hours with Peter Parfitt some months ago and he reiterated how important it is on a large array to start in the middle and work outwards. So I did exactly that with this bench. As I say, Parf II worked very well for me but I took my time and was careful. I cannot comment regarding Parf I.

My 5 cut test was on a section of wood using the set up above and it was some silly fraction of a degree out.

 

[Oaktree11]

I had excellent results from the UJK Parf MK II Guide System on my 2x1 meter worktop with 200 holes. Had I followed the instructions, I would have started from the center, worked to the edges, and trimmed the edges to match the grid pattern of the holes. Instead, I started in one corner and worked my way to the opposite corner.

I still trimmed the long edges of the Valchromat top using the track saw, but the alignment of the holes were perfect (in my opinion) for any woodworking projects I will be doing. I spot checked the top in ten places using my TSO MTR-18 square and four UJK Bench Dogs, and there were no gaps between the square and dogs. I also checked the alignment of holes along the 2-meter length using the 3-meter track saw guide, and I couldn't put a 0.03mm feeler gauge between the track saw edge and bench dogs along the side.

Maybe I was lucky, but I think my results are due to being patient and not rushing the drilling of the pilot holes or the 20mm holes. I never clamped the 20mm drill guide because I didn't have to. As soon as it was located and fixed in place, it did not shift or tilt.

I wish the 1-meter long Parf sticks had V-grooves in the ends with the apex of the groove along the center line of the 6mm holes for the pilot bushing. This would make it much easier, at least for me, to align the sticks along a reference line instead of relying on the line perfectly bisecting the 6mm hole.

It seems more intuitive to start at one corner and work across. That was half my problem with the MKI system! If you are really careful I am sure this can be as accurate. I can see why starting in the middle is a better way and it certainly worked for me. At the end of the day, however you do this it is the care and attention of the user that determines the result. I found the holes were a really tight fit and used the UKJ hole reamer which produced perfect (for me) dimensioned holes.

 

[ian33a]

It seems more intuitive to start at one corner and work across. That was half my problem with the MKI system! If you are really careful I am sure this can be as accurate. I can see why starting in the middle is a better way and it certainly worked for me. At the end of the day, however you do this it is the care and attention of the user that determines the result. I found the holes were a really tight fit and used the UKJ hole reamer which produced perfect (for me) dimensioned holes.

I probably should be a bit clearer : If the array of holes can be cut within the length of two parf sticks then there is no problem starting in one corner and working outwards. In fact, that should be the most precise method.

If, however, the array needs to be bigger than a parf stick in one or both directions, then Peter recommends that you start in the middle and extend outwards so as to build the larger array. This was the case with my MFT set up as I wanted to extend the array right across the bench and cover two MFT inserts.

 

[pe2dave]

Thanks for all the responses guys. I just received my bench dogs gear yesterday, I think I'd better play with standard size MFT for a month or so before figuring out my custom size. Essentially I think the standard depth (718mm) is fine, I just want the 1400mm to allow a little more room to play.

Option: Buy two 'standard' CNC design tops, cut second to suit?
Guess, price wouldn't be much different to custom size?
I guess depends on stability of your base to do that, but should be manageable.

 

[Spectric]

Been looking at @ian33a 's bench design again along with several others and it is different from many others in that it is modular and is not tying you down to a system. By this I mean you can have the 20mm holes but you can equally swap out the inserts for no holes, holes and micro jig slots or a router insert in one and then use the Incra positioner and Benchdogs locating plate in the other, it is something I am looking at for my next modular bench design to free up floor space by illiminating the Kreg router table. It also has very clean lines for a workbench, it is like a piece of furniture so well done, I like it.

The one thing I may do different is to have a front apron that is hinged or removable with 20mm holes and microjig slots like Denis from Hooked on wood has done which allows you to work round corners and hold work side on upright.

 

[ian33a]

Been looking at @ian33a 's bench design again along with several others and it is different from many others in that it is modular and is not tying you down to a system. By this I mean you can have the 20mm holes but you can equally swap out the inserts for no holes, holes and micro jig slots or a router insert in one and then use the Incra positioner and Benchdogs locating plate in the other, it is something I am looking at for my next modular bench design to free up floor space by illiminating the Kreg router table. It also has very clean lines for a workbench, it is like a piece of furniture so well done, I like it.

The one thing I may do different is to have a front apron that is hinged or removable with 20mm holes and microjig slots like Denis from Hooked on wood has done which allows you to work round corners and hold work side on upright.

indeed, this is very much the case. In this design (from The Woodgrafter) he started off with the design that I followed but also offered a table insert with a router lift as an alternative. The shelves underneath actually lift out so can accommodate the depth of a router and lifter if so desired. I have a separate router table so decided to simply stay with the double MFT design. I guess it may even be possible to incorporate a table saw insert and use the table surfaces as run in and run outs for the wood.

I don’t have 20mm holes on the vertical but my version has double T slots (by Inca) so that work can be held vertically. The double slots are important as it stops larger sheets of material from whipping. I can slot in Festool and Axminster MFT clamps quite easily with a small amount of lubrication wax to reduce friction.

thank you for praising the work that I have done. I’m no expert with woodworking (I hadn‘t done a mortise and tenon joint since leaving school over 40 years ago and I was almost scared to turn on my router when I first started the project!) and this is by far the most complicated piece of woodwork that I have ever done. There are more simple designs but I saw this as a challenge. It took me several weeks to build and I’m delighted with it.

 

[Bojam]

It also has very clean lines for a workbench, it is like a piece of furniture so well done, I like it.

Me too. Great work Ian. Like Spectric, I would seriously consider this design for my next bench and agree on the idea of an hinged apron with microjig slots. Hope you enjoy using it!

 

[martin.pearson]

Maybe not the right place to ask but are people using this style of bench instead of the more traditional workbench or as an extra? I made mine because I wanted something that I could use at my workshop (rented) & my home. I already had a centipede pop up frame so built a top to fit that, having a CNC makes things like that a lot easier lol

 

[ian33a]

Maybe not the right place to ask but are people using this style of bench instead of the more traditional workbench or as an extra? I made mine because I wanted something that I could use at my workshop (rented) & my home. I already had a centipede pop up frame so built a top to fit that, having a CNC makes things like that a lot easier lol

In my case, I have a general work bench that I built 35 years ago. It isn't massive and doesn't work well with sheet materials. My new bench is bigger and supports modern power tools better. So, I use both types.