CS & Guide or Table Saw?

[ByronBlack]

Thanks for that update Colin

I've spent most of this evening watching video's, reading and looking at galleries, and i'm almost certain that the EZ Smart is the way to go.

However, can anyone confirm whether I can do the following with a Festool CS?

1. Repeat cuts (similar to EZ Smart repeater)
2. Self Squaring - an attachment to the guide perhaps?

 

[RogerS]

Byron

Have you watched this

Roger

 

[RogerS]

the ability to use any CS with it.

Unless you've already got a CS I can't see the real benefit of this. How many CS do you intend to buy :wink:

 

[Alf]

Well, you seem to like both guide systems, yeah? So it seems to me to come down to the saw - can you get to play with a Festool and see how you like it? It might be you don't like it for some reason and that'd solve the matter of choice straight away.

Cheers, Alf

 

[houtslager]

Hi there Byron, sorry I come to this post a bit late
I am a dedicated Festool user and have the TS75EBQ and its rail system.
AND the EZ cut rail system. The Festool system is good but not totally perfect, it to has a ANGLE guide that attatches to ANY of the rails- 800,
1400 2500 etc.
Big problem is the rail often moves "off line" just a smidge but then
that's just becuase 1. its a BIG CS and 2. Iwas a little kack handed.
The EZ rail is Longer then the Festool - 1400mm :evil: just a tad
longer then a standard sheet width, the EZ rails have a much better
length range from 14"to 64" so triming small panals/timber to cutting
FULL SIZE sheets a doodle.
I have the SG-1 kit = 2 x 50"rails with a Makita CS and it has done great.
BY matching a Festool CS and the EZ rail system you would be getting the BEST OUT OF BOTH TOOLS

GO FOR IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ByronBlack]

Hi Alf,

Your right, I do like both systems, (EZ more than the festool at the moment), but the problem I have is there isn't a local dealer to me to try them out, hence why I try and take as much personal reviews/recommendations as possible.

Although I have noticed that both systems offer a money back guarentee, so I could always send one back if I don't like it.


Roger - Thanks for the link, looks good, however, I would add that the EZ system is self squaring and doesn't require another tool (in a engineers square) to square it before use - a big consideration with me.

Houtslager - Your post was exactly what I was looking for! Someone with both systems who can judge them impartially! How does your Makita CS compare to the Festool CS? And is it possible to buy just the Festool CS on it's own without the guide system and accesories?

 

[Shady]

Hi mate - Colin bought his EZ after seeing my comments on it: I've not played with the Festool, so can't comment on it, but I'd definitely say either is far more practical - and safe - unless you go up to very big bucks and a very large table system. I'd want a table as a professional, but as an amateur this seems a far more cost and space effective route: it also allows you to 'take the tool to the work'.

I use mine with the Axminster white CS, and have cut MFC with a decking blade, and got zero tearout.

Also consider the ability to use it with a router base as well: I'm sure Festool will have a similar capability.

I'd say - buy the (cheaper) EZ system, use it, and see what you think.

Oh - the point about rubber strips is a fair one - they do help.

 

[como]

Byron,

Just to throw another spanner into the works, have you considered the Trend Pro Track.

http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/clampguides/cgpro.shtml

I have the small version and the circular saw base plate, although I've not had chance to use it in anger yet so I cant really comment on it performance or if it compares to the festool or the EZ.

Maybe someone else on the forum may have a better idea of comparison.

Mark

 

[RogerS]

I originally tried using the basic clamp guide and found that it slipped all the time when used with MFC. There was just not enough grip when clamped up to stop it sliding when used with a router. OK - there's more sideways pressure when you use a router cf a CS but even so... if this system is based on the same mechanism then I'd be wary.

 

[ByronBlack]

Guy's, I appreciate all the comments and information.

Based on price and want I intend to do, I think i'm definitly going to go with the EZ system, this is based on the following main points:

- Self squaring square/fence
- Repeater Arm
- Smart Clamps
- Gerneral perception that it's a more sturdy and effective system than the Festool.

So now my search is narrowed down to a CS, recommendations glady taken (after looking into the prices, I can rule out the stand-alone festool TS55 and ATF)

My main criteria for a CS would be as quiet as possible, easy depth stop and general setup, and a good cutting depth, and something that is going to last me for the next 5-10 years.

 

[Jake]

If I were you I would go for a plunge saw, Mafell or Festool. When I looked into the EZ thing a while ago, the thing I really didn't like about it was that the saw plate stops the blade guard working - it is permanently up, and the blade is always exposed. That's why I'd favour a plunge saw, where the blade can retract when you finished a cut.

 

[ByronBlack]

Good Idea Jake - i'll look into the Maffell, any idea on which one to look at? The festool I think might be a little over the budget when purchasing the full EZ kit.

 

[Colin C]

HI Jake
If I have got what you said right, I think you have it wrong as the guard comes back down when finished

When fitting the saw, you make sure that the guard will work at 90 and 45 by cutting away the back of the plate
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/Smart-bas ... t_base_005
I hope I have it right and this is what you mean

 

[Jake]

HI Jake
If I have got what you said right, I think you have it wrong as the guard comes back down when finished

When fitting the saw, you make sure that the guard will work at 90 and 45 by cutting away the back of the plate
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/Smart-bas ... t_base_005
I hope I have it right and this is what you mean

So how is that zero-clearance?

 

[DaveL]

So how is that zero-clearance?

Take a look at the rest of the pictures in that album and it will become clear. There are replaceable inserts that fit in the front of the base, where the zero clearance is needed, not at the back.

 

[Jake]

So how is that zero-clearance?

Take a look at the rest of the pictures in that album and it will become clear. There are replaceable inserts that fit in the front of the base, where the zero clearance is needed, not at the back.

Oh right, that looks very different from how I remember it - whether that's my memory or an evolution in what he's selling.

 

[Jake]

Oh right, that looks very different from how I remember it - whether that's my memory or an evolution in what he's selling.

Maybe it was neither of those.

This is the picture that I recalled:

which is with the zero-clearance insert installed, and it is that which is appears to stop the blade guard from closing.

 

[Colin C]

Jake
I see what you mean but the guard has been pulled back for the pic, thats all .
The guard on mine covers the hole blade when not in use .

 

[Anonymous]

The mafell has a retractable riving knife which means you can do plunge cuts. The only annoying thing is that you can't set a depth stop for plunging. Not sure if the festool has this.

The only down side to the cheaper mafell saws is the depth of cut. This isn't really any issue when cutting sheet material though.

One day I'll get the chance to play with a Festool to see if there is really that much difference.

To be honest if I was buying the EZ system I would go for a much cheaper saw. The mafell definately doesn't have enough extra features to warrant the price difference (if you're not using the guide rail). The Hitachi saws are supposedly good and the new designs stand out from the crowd.

Dave

 

[Jake]

Jake
I see what you mean but the guard has been pulled back for the pic, thats all

I'm not sure that's the case - it looks to me as if the guard couldn't close any more because it is jammed against the end of the zero-clearance plate. I can't see how it could pivot through the solid plate. Maybe I'm just picturing it wrong in my head though.

The guard on mine covers the hole blade when not in use .

With the zero-clearance plate in? Do you cut another slot in the zero-clearance alongside the blade slot so the guard can shut?

Maybe it's about the design of saw-guard I'm used to, but I still can't picture how any guard could close with a solid plate enclosing the blade that far back.

Puzzled.