Corian for a router table top?

[Eric The Viking]

I want to redo mine, and was wondering about a Corian offcut.

So the questions are:

1. Is it a good idea in principle? I get the feeling it's flat, tough, slightly slippery and dimensionally stable - that's good enough for me!

2. Can I actually get some - do fitters have offcuts like laminated worktops, or is it all cut to size in the factory and shipped?

3. How much will I have to pay for say 900mm x 1m? Do I need a second mortgage?

4. Would lurid colours be cheaper? (just kidding).

Seriously, does anyone work with the stuff and have thoughts on this?

 

[JonnyD]

Hi Eric I fabricate corian and I dont think i would use it for a router table top.

The main reasons being its usually flat but not perfectly flat so and there is about a 1.5mm tolerance allowed for a dip or crown in a 1m length. You could laminate it to a solid top and fasten it so its perfectly level though.

900mm is a bit too wide as a standard sheet is 760mm wide so it would have to be fabricated to get the width although some colours are available in 900mm wide

The size you require is a fairly large offcut but you can buy a 1/4 sheet which is 760x900 and for a basic colour you would be looking in the region of £100 including the vat.

I think i would either have an mdf top with laminate surface or look into getting a piece of solid laminate or phenolic i think its called to make the top out of.

cheers

Jon

 

[devonwoody]

No practical experience of this stuff but my thoughts are that it is usually thick which is not IMO ideal for a router top surface but I suppose you fit a router plate to lay in corian and that could be tricky?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Eric
My table is made from two layers of MDF faced with Formica (well, it may be another brand, I'm not sure, but kitchen laminate, anyway). It's cheap (I blagged the Formica from a kitchen mnfrs scrap bin) and when I have to make it again, I'll have no hesitation in doing exactly the same again.

There are other things I would do differently, however.

I'd buy a top-of-the-range router plate. I started with the Rousseau/Trend/Axi one. Horrible. I now have the Tilgear one. It's much better, although ring changing is a pain as it requires a screwdriver. I'd buy the Woodpecker next time, or maybe a routalift - I've not really looked into those as I am happy with my Router Raizer.

I'd also move the cutting position closer to the front of the table. I rarely need all the space for support, but I regularly wish I could move the fence even further back than I can. When cutting parallel V-grooves for jig keyways, for example.

I have two mitre slots in my table, one is along the length, the other across the from front to back at the left-hand end. This is for use with my horizontal router setup, which is located on the left side of the table. The mitre track is a pain, as the end of a workpiece can snag on it. I'd put it at the right hand end instead, or, probably, not bother at all, I don't actually use it very often.

I'd also design some better guarding into the design of the fence (which is excellent, BTW - a two-part job that allows micro-adjustment). I don't usually guard the router table and I think I should. When I do guard it it's a cobbled-together affair.

Finally, I'd have no hesitation in drilling a dirty great big hole in my router plate in line with the cutter, screwing a block of wood underneath and connecting a hose to it. I've just done exactly that and the DX is vastly improved when cutting grooves, keyways and other non-edge-profiling operations.

That should just about be perfect!

S

S

 

[Eric The Viking]

there is about a 1.5mm tolerance allowed for a dip or crown in a 1m length. You could laminate it to a solid top and fasten it so its perfectly level though.

I didn't realise that! I'd assumed it was similar to the stone-flour-in-resin tops that are popular at the moment.

900mm is a bit too wide as a standard sheet is 760mm wide so it would have to be fabricated to get the width although some colours are available in 900mm wide

I guess if I'm backing it with MDF I could use the mitre track slots to hide joins, and possibly get away with smaller offcuts. But if it's not as rigid as I'd hoped though, I may just stick with either faced MDF or traditional worktop, as MDF below might defeat the purpose.

I think i would either have an mdf top with laminate surface or look into getting a piece of solid laminate or phenolic i think its called to make the top out of.

That makes sense to me. I'm also considering welding 1" angle together into a frame for underneath. It's very rigid if it's rolled steel, rather than bent sheet.

 

[chippy1970]

Steve, What is it you don't like about the Rousseau plate I bought one about 5 years ago and still haven't got around to building a table yet too busy doing other stuff. I cannot see much wrong with it but as I have not used it yet maybe you noticed something I haven't.

Chris

 

[RussianRouter]

Hi Eric

Why not useMDF and cover it with Perspex?

I've found that this ebay seller is quite cheap,£29 f 12x500x1000mm
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLEAR-12MM-ACRYLI ... 5d29154eb3
They do 15mm as well,but on saying this 6 or 8mm thick will do fo covering 25mmMDF.

 

[RussianRouter]

3mmm black is even cheaper again 1000x1000
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BLACK-3MM-PLASTIC ... 5d2915794e

 

[Steve Maskery]

Chris
The Rousseau plate is not flat. Deliberately so, the palte is slightly domed. The idea is that if there is any sag then the cutter itself is still at the top. It means you ride a bump and so the workpiece is more likely to catch on anything along its path (like the afore-mentioned mitre slot, for example). Plus, levering out the rings is a PITA.

No. give me a properly flat plate with easily interchangeable rings anytime.

Cheers
Steve

PS I don't think Perspex is a very suitable material, myself; it splits and shatters too easily for my liking. One workpiece mishap and you could have the router, still running, in a heap under the table, I reckon. Plus I'm not convinced of its slick properties once it starts to get a bit scratched from normal use.

 

[wobblycogs]

I've just bought a 1200x1200 sheet of Tufnol from these people http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk to use as a router table top. I've not built the table yet but the plastics arrived and it looks like it will be perfect - good and flat and looks like it will machine fairly easily too. I went for a 3mm sheet as I'll be laminating it onto one or more likely a double thickness of 18mm MDF.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Hi Eric

Why not use MDF and cover it with Perspex?

I've found that this ebay seller is quite cheap,£29 f 12x500x1000mm
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CLEAR-12MM-ACRYLI ... 5d29154eb3
They do 15mm as well,but on saying this 6 or 8mm thick will do fo covering 25mmMDF.

There are a few issues with perspex: It scratches easily, and cracks, and it has a relatively high coefficient of friction. and it has very little inherent rigidity. That's good in many applications, but not this one.

I didn't realise Corian worktops were (a) not very flat, and (b) tend to move about (flex).

I'm coming round to either Steve M's double layer of properly-faced MDF, or some well-chosen conventional worktop.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've just bought a 1200x1200 sheet of Tufnol from these people http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk to use as a router table top. I've not built the table yet but the plastics arrived and it looks like it will be perfect - good and flat and looks like it will machine fairly easily too. I went for a 3mm sheet as I'll be laminating it onto one or more likely a double thickness of 18mm MDF.

Interesting, especially as a facing. Which grade and which thickness did you choose? The 1P/13 looks affordable (just!)

Machining is OK, but in my limited experience it is incredibly tough (and smelly when you work it!). They have a glueing table too that's useful (not being a mech. eng., I assume the numbers are Loctite etc. products).

 

[wobblycogs]

I went for the 1P/13 grade 3mm thick. I debated going for the mechanical grade but it's quite a bit more as you've no doubt seen. I wasn't sure if 3mm would be enough but now I see it in the flesh I think I could probably have gone for 2mm.

As for glueing and cutting I have a bit more than I need so I was going to practice and cutting and try out a few glues. Looking at it I think regular contact adhesive will probably work.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I went for the 1P/13 grade 3mm thick. I debated going for the mechanical grade but it's quite a bit more as you've no doubt seen. I wasn't sure if 3mm would be enough but now I see it in the flesh I think I could probably have gone for 2mm.

As for glueing and cutting I have a bit more than I need so I was going to practice and cutting and try out a few glues. Looking at it I think regular contact adhesive will probably work.

Sounds grand (and not that expensive, either).

Do let us know progress, as I'm sorely tempted! I may go the thicker-still route though, (5 or 6mm If the budget will stretch) as that will stiffen as well as flatten, and will mill to a really nice finish for the insert plate recess.

 

[stuartpaul]

Chris
The Rousseau plate is not flat. Deliberately so, the palte is slightly domed. The idea is that if there is any sag then the cutter itself is still at the top. It means you ride a bump and so the workpiece is more likely to catch on anything along its path (like the afore-mentioned mitre slot, for example). Plus, levering out the rings is a PITA.

No. give me a properly flat plate with easily interchangeable rings anytime.

Cheers
Steve

What he said only more so!!

The rousseau for me is a complete PITA and I can't wait to get rid of mine. I too am interested to hear how the Tufnol works out as its something I'm considering.

Just out of interest if I double up on 18mm MDF and use a laminate will I need to balance the back?

If I use Tufnol will I need to balance the back?

With the difficulty of getting hold of laminate around this way if Tufnol doesn't have to be balanced it might work out cheaper (especially if I go for 2mm).

 

[OPJ]

If you do decide on an MDF/laminate combination then I may have enough Formica left over from when I did my little table a couple of years ago. I'll have to check the dimensions of what I've got left but, I'd be willing to part with it for a small fee. :wink:

Otherwise, in Bristol, you can buy Formica from BDS in St.Werbughs. That's where I got mine; about £30 for a 10'x4' sheet, collected.

 

[devonwoody]

I have had the Triton router table and triton router for seven years now and if you can purchase the plate only from spares it is worth considering with your table set up.
There is the slight deformity when passing over the insert ring, (but this could be rectified by fettling down the ring to make a flat surface) however the slight rise solves other problems that happen on router table tops.

There is a video here of the complete table.

http://www.sparicom.com/Items/Item.aspx?SKU=330100

 

[wobblycogs]

I'm planning on doing a full WIP thread when I build the router table. We're expecting our first child any time now though so that's going to cause a bit of a delay in starting the project.

As for balencing the laminate I read countless posts on making a good top and it was about a 50:50 split as to whether it was needed in a situation like this. Only one of the single laminate tops I read about warped and that was fairly minor and corrected by screwing it firmly to the base. I'm planning on just laminating one side, if I get any movement problems I'll buy another sheet of Tufnol and laminate the back.

The alternative to Tufnol is the good old fireback that a lot of people use (you can get it at B&Q warehouses, I couldn't find an on-line supplier). I'm planning on building the mother of all tables thoughwhich required a a larger sheet than fireback comes in. If you're wondering I'm planning on building a false top and using it as a glue up table too.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I'm planning on doing a full WIP thread when I build the router table. We're expecting our first child any time now though so that's going to cause a bit of a delay in starting the project.

As for balencing the laminate I read countless posts on making a good top and it was about a 50:50 split as to whether it was needed in a situation like this. Only one of the single laminate tops I read about warped and that was fairly minor and corrected by screwing it firmly to the base. I'm planning on just laminating one side, if I get any movement problems I'll buy another sheet of Tufnol and laminate the back.

The alternative to Tufnol is the good old fireback that a lot of people use (you can get it at B&Q warehouses, I couldn't find an on-line supplier). I'm planning on building the mother of all tables thoughwhich required a a larger sheet than fireback comes in. If you're wondering I'm planning on building a false top and using it as a glue up table too.

I think as long you seal the other side it should be fine. If it's subject to enough movement for single-side laminate to cause problems, it's got to be wrong for other reasons.

My present table is an Axminster one. It's fine , apart from two niggles: the rebate for the plate isn't quite deep enough (just need a couple of hours to sort that), and it's developed a sag in the middle. This is a right PITA, and the main reason for the new top.

It makes me cautious of MDF though. The top is 1" MDF now, and it had no trouble sagging by about 2mm in the middle (admittedly it's not well supported in the middle area, although the plate is an 8mm aluminium aftermarket one).

I'm wondering about several layers of ply, backed by angle iron and faced with Tufnol (now I know you can get it in nice big sheets!). I wouldn't expect that proper Birch ply bends more than MDF of equivalent thickness (although I'm happy to be corrected on this).

 

[Steve Maskery]

Eric,
I can understand your concern about sagging and yo only want to put this right once, but I don't see how a laminated top, say 3 layers x 9mm, that is properly supported can possibly move a significant amount.

It seems to me that the hardest part is laminating it flat in the first place. I have a vac bag if you want to use it.

Cheers
Steve