Consumer Units For Workshop

[Lonsdale73]

Would this one be adequate?

I plan to have a 1.5kw dust extractor, servicing either a 1kw lathe, 550w bandsaw or 1400w router; the latter will also have a 1300w shopvac working in conjunction with the main DE. Lighting will come from two - possibly more - 48w 600mmx600mm LED panels and I almost always have a radio or something playing in the background and maybe something charging (iPod, batteries, etc)

 

[porker]

That unit is for two circuits. One would be your lighting and the other power. Note though that this doesn't have any RCD device in case of an earth fault. A lot depends on what is feeding your workshop - size of cable / proximity from house etc.
Personally I would want the RCD in close proximity if you get a trip. Most of the tools you mention are quite low load but you might want to consider future provision like a 16A socket and also different class of breaker (eg. type C) for high inrush tools like large saws.
Sorry not a simple answer because there are other factors to consider

 

[Lonsdale73]

That unit is for two circuits. One would be your lighting and the other power. Note though that this doesn't have any RCD device in case of an earth fault. A lot depends on what is feeding your workshop - size of cable / proximity from house etc.
Personally I would want the RCD in close proximity if you get a trip. Most of the tools you mention are quite low load but you might want to consider future provision like a 16A socket and also different class of breaker (eg. type C) for high inrush tools like large saws.
Sorry not a simple answer because there are other factors to consider

Thanks for that but I regret you will be sorry as now I have more questions!

I looked at this one which has the option of an RCD and asked the seller what the difference was between the two variants. Must admit I didn't quite understand his reply but read again after reading yours I'm guessing the red switch is simply that, manually operated and won't trip out if there's a fault? He has pointed out it is not 'amendment 3' compliant therefore not suitable for domestic unit. However, the listing does state "Ideal For Use In Sheds, Garages, Workshops, & Out Buildings" so would the RCD version be suitable for my needs?

Or can you recommend one that might be? I'm hoping between my battery-powered track saw and a new, properly set up bandsaw that I'll get away without a tablesaw and if I don't it's likely to be something like DW745 or one of the Axminster Craft models.

 

[Spectric]

Hi

Because you are having to ask about what dizzy board to use without providing all the relevant info then I would suggest that you get an electrician to undertake the job, may cost more but it will be safe and correct, plus any paperwork will be dealt with. The other factors that must be taken into account are the details of the cable length and Csa, discrimination and more importantly the means of earthing in the building that will be supplying this new board, I will say that you cannot just hook into the existing supply to the household sockets.

 

[Lonsdale73]

Hi

Because you are having to ask about what dizzy board to use without providing all the relevant info then I would suggest that you get an electrician to undertake the job, may cost more but it will be safe and correct, plus any paperwork will be dealt with. The other factors that must be taken into account are the details of the cable length and Csa, discrimination and more importantly the means of earthing in the building that will be supplying this new board, I will say that you cannot just hook into the existing supply to the household sockets.

Hands up, I haven't a clue as to what the relevant info even is (thought I was being clever by looking up the wattage of the devices likely to be installed!) and therefore I have every intention of having a qualified electrician install everything as I want it done right and to last; without killing me in the process would be a bonus.

The property I'm moving to is so far away that I've only had the opportunity to view it once. The garage runs parallel to the house, maybe three feet apart. I know there is power in there - a light at least, not certain about any sockets as yet. I had it in my head that an overhead cable ran from kitchen to garage (which would place entry towards the rear of he garage) however, photos appear to show a heavy duty cable running up the garage wall near to the up'n'door.

 

[Spectric]

Hi Probably a newish build where the builder has given you the basic's in the garage, ie a light and one or two sockets. You need to think further ahead because what you are thinking of today may well change if you get more involved with woodworking, I think it does for many of us and having a decent supply that could run machinery you either have not yet thought of needing or will just buy because it took your fancy is well worthwhile. All the best with your move, is it northwards or going down south.

 

[undergroundhunter]

Hi,
Really it needs an electrician to look at, discuss your needs and they will quote/design for what is appropriate. Depending on the demand there may be need for a bigger supply cable but again an electrician will do the cable calculations. It also depends on where the feed cable comes from. As has been said I would have one or two spare spaces in the board for future use if you need it.

Matt

 

[clogs]

always get a bigger cable, a decent twin circuit fuse board and a 16amp supply, adds value to the property, well makes it easier to sell,and a seperate EARTH ROD next to the workshop....
sorry have a hate complex on long earth leads going back to the board......

just the other day......!!!!!!!!
my incoming mains fuse is outside in a concrete cupboard..power supplied from overhead cables.....somehow the door got opened and the vermin had eaten thru the earth lead and the nuetral to a seperate supply (workshop)

 

[Lonsdale73]

Northward bound. Not had confirmation as to when the property was built but it's certainly not a new build.

Although I will be starting from scratch, it's not my first workshop. I've spent the past eight or nine years creating one here and last few weeks dismantling it all again. Along the way, I've bought the 'wrong' thing plenty of times (no guarantees I'm done doing that!) and the original reason for having one at all has gone so now it's purely for the pleasure of making sawdust. I got into woodturning over the past year and that's going to be it's main purpose, hence big dust extractor, lathe and bandsaw. And my router table, the one thing I haven't sold from my existing workshop. Should I find I really can't live without a tablesaw, best one I've ever owned was a Dewalt site saw so I'll probably go down that route again. Hoping to have some space to actually work in, crammed too much into my last one.

 

[MikeJhn]

If you are a lone worker the power requirements inside the workshop could be quite low, only one machine and the extract on at any one time, lights and possibly a work light, notwithstanding that, it would be better to get an electrician to install it all, in a decent size dual RCD or preferably a full RCBO board in case of future needs, the boards that say "Ideal For Use In Sheds, Garages, Workshops, & Out Buildings" are generally only for lights and a couple of sockets and would soon have to be replaced as your ambitions progress, talk it through with an Electrician.

 

[Lonsdale73]

If you are a lone worker the power requirements inside the workshop could be quite low, only one machine and the extract on at any one time, lights and possibly a work light, notwithstanding that, it would be better to get an electrician to install it all, in a decent size dual RCD or preferably a full RCBO board in case of future needs, the boards that say "Ideal For Use In Sheds, Garages, Workshops, & Out Buildings" are generally only for lights and a couple of sockets and would soon have to be replaced as your ambitions progress, talk it through with an Electrician.

Something like this?

 

[MikeJhn]

That will do the job, but personally I would be looking at a FuseBox full RCBO board without surge protection.

 

[guineafowl21]

Always leave room for expansion - tell your electrician that you’ll be using a lot of motors with large turn-on surges, and may require a C-type MCB.

Ring mains have their detractors, but if properly installed, they are very practical and unlikely to nuisance trip.

So a four-way CU with 6A for lights, 32A ring, 16A (possibly C type) for a blue socket, and a spare, should serve you well.

Consider RCD protection for everything, not just for shock protection but also fire. RCBOs will ensure that you won’t be plunged into darkness if a machine trips.

 

[RichardG]

Always leave room for expansion - tell your electrician that you’ll be using a lot of motors with large turn-on surges, and may require a C-type MCB.

Ring mains have their detractors, but if properly installed, they are very practical and unlikely to nuisance trip.

So a four-way CU with 6A for lights, 32A ring, 16A (possibly C type) for a blue socket, and a spare, should serve you well.

Consider RCD protection for everything, not just for shock protection but also fire. RCBOs will ensure that you won’t be plunged into darkness if a machine trips.

Totally agree plus I believe the consumer must be all metal construction to meet current regs so don’t go and buy a bargain abs unit, any decent electrician will refuse to fit it.

 

[Lonsdale73]

Sat down to read all your 'safety first' and a cupboard door fell on my head!

 

[MikeJhn]

Totally agree plus I believe the consumer must be all metal construction to meet current regs so don’t go and buy a bargain abs unit, any decent electrician will refuse to fit it.

Not a requirement to be fire proof, but non combustable;

421.1.201 Within domestic (household) premises, consumer units and similar switchgear assemblies shall comply with BS EN 61439-3 and shall:

(i) have their enclosure manufactured from non-combustible material, or

(ii) be enclosed in a cabinet or enclosure constructed of non-combustible material and complying with Regulation 132.12.

NOTE 1: Ferrous metal, e.g. steel, is deemed to be an example of a non-combustible material.

NOTE 2: The implementation date for this regulation is the 1st January 2016, but does not preclude compliance with the regulation prior to that date.

Also when discussing this with an Electrician do give detailed information i.e. you will at most be using only two motors with high in-rush currents at a time.

 

[peterw3035]

Sorry to highjack, the electrics are a little way off on my workshop project but will be sorted by a qualified/experienced sparky. I don't see that I have a need for a 16A supply at present but what sort of machines may need this if I upgrade in future?

 

[Spectric]

The obvious is a planer thicknesser, I have a Record PT107 which required a 16 amp supply, some people have table saws that seem to need a 16 amp supply but my 315mm 3Hp table saw is on a std 13amp socket. It is easier to have one and not use it rather than have to get one fitted later, also as I have said on other post forget the historic ring main, and also use box trunking and singles rather than T&E, gives a better more flexable installation.
As for the dizzy board, it should be made of non combustable material and also all cable entry and exit points sealed so as to contain any thermal event. Again using conduit and trunking helps meet the requirement.

 

[MikeJhn]

Entry and exit points on a consumer unit should be by proper glands to maintain the IP rating of the board, use single sockets as they have a better amp rating than dual sockets, 16amp sockets specified by lots of manufacturers for all sorts of reasons, not needed until you draw over fourteen amps, or the in rush current of an induction motor overloads the MCB rating it is on, better to use A rated RCBO's on all workshop circuits IMO.

 

[Spectric]

For most domestic applications in the Uk we use type B which trip at 3 to 5 times rated, ie 20A device will trip between 60 and 100 amps. Type A are very sensitive and trip at just 3 to 5 times rated and used only when certain electronic equipment is being fed and are not widely available.