Circular Saw Blades: Storage and Handling

[FrCollins]

As in most modern workshops I use many different types and sizes of circular saw blades, anyone who owns these types of blades will know they can be expensive to purchase and service.
I have been working for some time on ways to store a selection of these blades together in a convenient way that will help to reduce the chances of them being damaged and to leave them easy to access and safer to handle. This is mainly to encourage myself and others to use the proper blades when operating our circular saws, be they; portable or stationary, large or small.
Should I be successful in sorting something out I will post the details to get your opinions and hopefully assist other circular saw users. Is there anyone who has the same problem? I would appreciate any advice or experiences you may have on this subject.

many thanks, FRCOLLINS

 

[Oryxdesign]

There are things already on the market. Personally I just use the cardboard box they come in and generally when I have them sharpened the saw guy replaces the box when it get shabby.
Simon

 

[Nick Gibbs]

I've seen FR Collins' blade storage idea, and I think you'll be impressed. He's put a lot of thought and effort into the product. You obviously can make do with cardboard, or the sleeves blades arrive in, but I think the product is a step forward, and am sure it will encourage people to change the blade in their tablesaw more often, either because it is blunt or inappropriate.

I wish FR Collins every success. We need to give British industry every bit of help we can.

Nick

 

[Oryxdesign]

I'll look forward to seeing it then

 

[Woodmagnet]

Welcome to the forum F.R.Collins, you have me
rather interested now on the outcome of your
storage idea. :wink:

 

[FrCollins]

Thanks to all who have taken the time to view my post in particular the lads who have posted replies. This has been my first ever post to an online forum of any kind, I hope I am replying to your posts in the proper way.

Simon, (Oryxdesign)
You are my first reply to a forum post, many thanks. I understand where you are coming from with reference to the cardboard boxes I have been doing this for years, you are luckier than I am though I have used many saw services and none have been kind enough to replace the boxes when they have got worn. You mention you know of things in the market place at present I am wondering are they the same ones I have came across, these have been little better and sometimes even worse than the; cardboard boxes.


Hello Nick, (Editor, British Woodworking magazine) [email protected]
Many thanks for your vote of confidence and best wishes.
By the way I recently received your latest issue of BWW it is your best to date, great idea to include young folk interested in our trade. I believe you should try and feature a young person in every issue it would give these young lads and lassies something to aim for and brag about if the make it into your magazine.
I’m sure most of the members of this forum know of you Nick and many will be fans of your magazine, I would be one. This magazine has a great mix of old and new features on many woodworking subjects. As a cabinet maker and someone who has been involved in the professional sector of the woodworking trade for many years I highly recommend it to all those who have yet to try it.

Kevin,
Thank you for the welcome, and your interest in this project. I am confident you will find this inexpensive, pioneering new product to be something that will be of use to you and most modern day woodworkers.
I recently presented this product to a local well known tool distribution company, they were very impressed with its design and function and believe they could distribute it for me.
With their help I hope to be able to bring it to the market place before the end of 2009.
As soon as it is feasible (could be a few months yet) I will be posting details of this innovative new product to this forum. I trust you, Simon and anyone else who views it will be enthusiastic about its potential benefits within our trade and its prospects of being a market success.

FRCOLLINS

 

[Oryxdesign]

This is the kind of thing I have seen, must admit I've never been tempted but I am looking forward to seeing your idea. I suspect we'll see it in British Woodworking too.
Simon

 

[FrCollins]

I am sure hoping to see it in Nick's mag sometime soon Simon. You seem to know Nick, have you got the chance to view any issue's of his a magazines yet? It is almost a year since I first contacted Nick about this project, and I have to say although he is a very busy man, since then he has assisted me in any way he can and has been a great source of encouragment.

FRCOLLINS

 

[dicktimber]

If you re grind the blades ......

How do you rip timber, without the riving knife getting stick....it's now larger than the cut you are making

I can only think that people remove the riving knife......???

Mike

 

[Oryxdesign]

I am sure hoping to see it in Nick's mag sometime soon Simon. You seem to know Nick, have you got the chance to view any issue's of his a magazines yet? It is almost a year since I first contacted Nick about this project, and I have to say although he is a very busy man, since then he has assisted me in any way he can and has been a great source of encouragment.

FRCOLLINS

I don't know Nick, I did meet him at a show and have conversed by email a couple of times, he's a friendly type of fella. I do subscribe to his mag and I really enjoy it.
Simon

 

[JonnyD]

When a blade is ground the kerf stays the same only the faces are ground so no problem with the riving knife.

Jon

 

[neilyweely]

If you re grind the blades ......

How do you rip timber, without the riving knife getting stick....it's now larger than the cut you are making

I thought that was the idea? 10% thicker than the kerf?

Am I being stupid? (again)

Neil

 

[promhandicam]

If you re grind the blades ......

How do you rip timber, without the riving knife getting stick....it's now larger than the cut you are making

I thought that was the idea? 10% thicker than the kerf?

Am I being stupid? (again)

Neil

A riving knife has to be thinner than the kerf of the blade but thicker than the body of the blade. The role of the riving knife is to help prevent kickback due to the internal stresses in the timber making the cut closes up behind the blade. This is also why short sub fences are used but for the opposite condition, ie where the cut opens up behind the blade. Ideally if you have blades with different kerfs/ body thicknesses you should have riving knives to suit. They are fairly easy to make using a piece of sheet steel of the right thickness and using the existing knife as a template. The leading edge should be ground / filed to a chamfer to facilitate the passage of the timber past the knife.

For more information have a look at this HSE publication on table saws.

HTH,

Steve

Steve

 

[FrCollins]

It’s good to view discussions on circular saw blades and how to use them properly, its hard to think of a more used and needed tool in to-day’s woodwork industry, yet instruction on the proper use of these blades is pretty hard to come by. We know there are many different types of c.s.b. I wonder how many saw operators take notice of this when using their saws and do they change them often enough when - cutting different materials or when they are - blunt, require cleaning or get damaged and need servicing.
It would be interesting to find out if; IT students in our schools are shown how to operate a circular saw and given details on the types of c.s.b. Are students taught how to identify which c.s.b. should be used for the material being sawn, and are they instructed on the dangers of using blunt, resinous or damaged blades?

It would be good to read more inquiries similar to that of: Mike (dicktimber) Like for example: Why do some c.s.b. have more teeth than others and have different types of cutting tips and what materials would each be used to cut. Why they have different types of tooth hooks and kerf thickness’s and advice on the best way to handle and store c.s.b. to avoid damage to them and injury to their users? I don’t know about Mike but I found the replies posted by: Jon (JonnyD) and Steve (neilyweely) to be very helpful.

I find it best to always keep a selection of the most popular c.s.b. I use in a convenient location to encourage their proper use and also make sure the tools and protective items needed to change them are easily to hand.

 

[Chris Knight]

When a blade is ground the kerf stays the same only the faces are ground so no problem with the riving knife.

Jon

Not to nitpick but the teeth are tapered front to back and so removing material from the face of the tooth will reduce its width and hence the kerf, albeit only slightly from normal sharpening.

 

[Trumpet]

Any chance of exposure to damp during lay up I've got into a habit of using a can of spray grease - cutters, blades, trowels, you name it I give it a light coat.

About 2 quid for a spray can and lasts ages.

 

[dicktimber]

Yes you are right, my blade teeth taper back, so removing just the front by grinding will reduce the efficiency of the riving knife and eventually you will get a binding action....that's if my logic is working ok?

So back to my original question. Do you remove your riving knife in order to keep using the re ground saw blade?

The only reason I ask is that, every time my blades become dull I stick them in the bin, and re order new ones that are of the correct kerf for the riving knife.
Some manufacturers I have tried, state a kerf of x, yet when it arrives the kerf is too small and not as advertised, making it useless, unless as stated you have several different riving knives and can change them to suit.

Do you not think this subject should be highlighted in the mags to a level where some sort of standard fore new and reground blades can be safely used.?
It seems health and safety in Europe make manufacturers adhere to the rule of fitting riving knives, so why aren't there rule that govern re ginds for instance, or minimum kerf thicknesses, in the workshop?

You may say, I have lost the plot...but, when youngsters come into this game they need hard and fast rules that work and keep them safe.
Are they realy in place, or is it up to the individual?

 

[JonnyD]

I generally get about 7-8 sharpenings out of a saw blade. The reduced kerf because of the slight taper of the teeth shouldnt make much difference only a very small ammount of carbide is removed by sharpening.

Jon

 

[Oryxdesign]

Basically **** you don't sharpen your blade so many times that it gets that thin, the riving knife is a bit thicker than the centre of the blade and the tct bits on the tips are a fair bit thicker whick helps to stop the bade getting grabbed. Your saw doctor will advise you.
Somebody will be along in a minute to give you the concise technicallities buts that's the jist.
Simon

 

[dicktimber]

I didn't realise......
So if I get this saw doctor guy in....
How much for a re grind or do I send them away?
Mike