Smudger
Established Member
Now I've got a nice shiny 05 on my shelf, as opposed to the old dirty one with crappy handles, what is the general advice on putting a gentle camber on the cutter using a Tormek? In fact, is it possible at all?
Cambering with a Tormek
- Thread starter Smudger
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woodbloke
Established Member
Dick - you're on potentially dangerous slope here...don't use the Tormek to grind a camber on the primary bevel. The camber should be honed only on the secondary bevel, either free hand or with the appropriate jig if you use one. Even if you do apply a camber, it's only very small...the T is far too aggressive and is designed to munch off huge quantities of steel in short order - RobSmudger":39mb17cn said:
Smudger
Established Member
What secondary bevel?
Only joking...
Though I have found that taking Record's advice and going for a single bevel of 25º actually works OK.
So, just a few strokes, a few thou off the corners, then.
Recommended for smoothers, too?
Only joking...
Though I have found that taking Record's advice and going for a single bevel of 25º actually works OK.
So, just a few strokes, a few thou off the corners, then.
Recommended for smoothers, too?
SVB
Established Member
Hi,
I asked a similar question regarding technique for this:
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35989
Some good points raised - worth a read.
BRgds
Simon
I asked a similar question regarding technique for this:
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35989
Some good points raised - worth a read.
BRgds
Simon
Pekka Huhta
Established Member
Hmm. I routinely do my cambers on the Tormek, and just touch up the cambers on stones.
The trick is to hone the iron so that the whole iron isn't resting on the stone. It's easiest to figure out if you think that you would first hone the iron straight.
Then you continue the side-to-side movement of the jig by letting the iron travel almost off from the stone on both sides. Keep the iron only 1/3 or less on the stone most of the time and only quickly pass the "whole-iron-touches-the-stone" center position. Just grind more from sides tahn from the center, just that simple. No need for special jigs.
This takes maybe half a minute and you're done.
It's true that you can do the cambering by honing only, but this way its quick job to do steeper cambers for Jacks etc. Not for scrubs though.
The benefit is that the whole bevel has the same profile. If you hone the camber on stones only, the subsequent hones take longer and time before next grinding is shorter. Not much, but enough for a lazy man :wink:
Pekka
The trick is to hone the iron so that the whole iron isn't resting on the stone. It's easiest to figure out if you think that you would first hone the iron straight.
Then you continue the side-to-side movement of the jig by letting the iron travel almost off from the stone on both sides. Keep the iron only 1/3 or less on the stone most of the time and only quickly pass the "whole-iron-touches-the-stone" center position. Just grind more from sides tahn from the center, just that simple. No need for special jigs.
This takes maybe half a minute and you're done.
It's true that you can do the cambering by honing only, but this way its quick job to do steeper cambers for Jacks etc. Not for scrubs though.
The benefit is that the whole bevel has the same profile. If you hone the camber on stones only, the subsequent hones take longer and time before next grinding is shorter. Not much, but enough for a lazy man :wink:
Pekka
woodbloke
Established Member
You little tinker :lol: ...almost breaking out in a sweat for a moment :lol: Good also for smoothers as well - RobSmudger":1g0km311 said:
David C
In Memorium
I like a slightly cambered grind, and can think of three ways of doing it.
1. Pekka Huhta's method which was also recommended to me by a Dutch friend.
2. If your plane blade jig is worn like mine, grind straight and then lift one edge of the blade while pressing down firmly on the other. Mind the underneath finger! Results will not be totally symmetrical so use felt tip on the bevel to monitor progress.
3. Use the effective but cumbersome Jet jig. This will grind even camber. It is adjustable from very slight to very pronounced.
The advantage of grinding a camber is that there is less metal to be removed by honing.
best wishes,
David Charlesworth
1. Pekka Huhta's method which was also recommended to me by a Dutch friend.
2. If your plane blade jig is worn like mine, grind straight and then lift one edge of the blade while pressing down firmly on the other. Mind the underneath finger! Results will not be totally symmetrical so use felt tip on the bevel to monitor progress.
3. Use the effective but cumbersome Jet jig. This will grind even camber. It is adjustable from very slight to very pronounced.
The advantage of grinding a camber is that there is less metal to be removed by honing.
best wishes,
David Charlesworth
Pekka Huhta
Established Member
I just had a Sharpening Evening. When it feels I have too many things to do and life is a mess it really pays out to stop for a while and do something very mechanical - it really takes your mind off from the everyday stress.
I picked up the planes that were not sharpened during the past few months, the ones that has the lever cap lifted up as a mark of "sharpen me" and went through my chisels. I took about two hours for ten planes and about 25 chisels.
I sharpen my planes and chisels always when a spesific tool need it, but every once in a while I go through the ones that have been used a bit, but no so much that I would have bothered to sharpen them. And if I notice a certain tool is in need of a good grind (as after hitting a knot and geting a chip broken from the edge) I flip up the lever cap as a sign that I should not use that one but try to survive with another plane.
As I remembered the discussion I tried to figure out how I sharpen the irons.
I don't think I grinded any of the plane irons the same way. There just is a different touch on every one of them depending on the plane and use. Only six of the plane irons had to be grinded, others were just touched up. The chisels I sharpened just the same way for the whole set.
There's just so much that can be explained verbally. Even if there was someone watching, I could not have told how they were done.
There are many things that can be explained, but sharpening isn't one of the easiest.
Pekka
P.s, the oily rags on the pic are just tissue paper used to keep the previous grit from contaminating the next stone. I use only oilstones, ao after the Tormek I use a coarse Carborundum, medium Belgian natural stone, hard translucent Arkansas and a custom-made epoxy-Al-oxide stone equivalent to 10 000 grit waterstone.
I picked up the planes that were not sharpened during the past few months, the ones that has the lever cap lifted up as a mark of "sharpen me" and went through my chisels. I took about two hours for ten planes and about 25 chisels.
I sharpen my planes and chisels always when a spesific tool need it, but every once in a while I go through the ones that have been used a bit, but no so much that I would have bothered to sharpen them. And if I notice a certain tool is in need of a good grind (as after hitting a knot and geting a chip broken from the edge) I flip up the lever cap as a sign that I should not use that one but try to survive with another plane.
As I remembered the discussion I tried to figure out how I sharpen the irons.
I don't think I grinded any of the plane irons the same way. There just is a different touch on every one of them depending on the plane and use. Only six of the plane irons had to be grinded, others were just touched up. The chisels I sharpened just the same way for the whole set.
There's just so much that can be explained verbally. Even if there was someone watching, I could not have told how they were done.
There are many things that can be explained, but sharpening isn't one of the easiest.
Pekka
P.s, the oily rags on the pic are just tissue paper used to keep the previous grit from contaminating the next stone. I use only oilstones, ao after the Tormek I use a coarse Carborundum, medium Belgian natural stone, hard translucent Arkansas and a custom-made epoxy-Al-oxide stone equivalent to 10 000 grit waterstone.
