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as then the buyers surveyor would pick it up as a new installtion etc etc etc.

Everyone says that, but the lawyer-pragmatist in me says - how?
 
Well, Jake..it depends. If you've just built an extension then that would be a bit obvious :wink: but would be covered by Building Regs anyway and so would have been picked up.

I think that it would depend on the time between doing the work and the time of selling. If short then all those nice clean cables without much dust on them would be a bit of a giveaway IMHO.

If we move forward a couple of years then it will be immediately obvious since the new colour coding for cables will have been in place for a while. Oh didn't I mention that? Thought I had..... :roll:
 
New colour cable was available well before Part P came in. I'd like to see someone start claiming they could identify the date something was installed from how clean a cable was. Maybe in five or ten years, but not yet. Date-stamped cable is the only real problem. I've a cellar full of 2002-stamped cable.

Jake
 
Right, having read the regulation, a shed would be covered but it is not a special location, so the exemptions apply. IF you are running a replacement cable for a single workshop circuit, say if the original one was really badly damaged by rodents or whatever (as suggested in the exemption) then that's OK and exempt. If you need to run two circuits, I suggest that it would be easy to "replace" the other circuit the next day.

All if you are competent, of course.

Me, I'd do the work and get it certified to cover my *** with the insurance company.

Jake
 
Ignoring the shed bit, if we are just talking about a machine that needs a 16amp socket rather than a 13 amp socket, then it this could be as simple as a straight socket replacement and thus exempt. Ring mains are 32 amp, so there is no reason that you must install a special radial circuit to such a socket, although that would have been the usual way to do it.

IANAEOAEE

Jake
 
Devon...

my interpretation of the reg left me wonderin what the heck all the fuss was about..

you'll need a sparkie to install your 16A circuit, bearing in mind that it'll need its own RCD in your consumer unit. Traditionally the user end of the circuit is an Entralec connector (heavy blue shelled male / female interlocking set c/w protective caps) that gets mounted close to where the machine in question will be. Once the circuit's tested and proven safe / signed off etc, YOU are at liberty to connect the mating plug to the machine, plug the sucker in and have at it...

Given that most houses n sheds don't have suitable 16A outlets anyway, and that it's logical to give it its own RCD, the only new part about this is the certification...
 
Hi Les,

Steve you said you have strip lights in the workshop, The electrician I spoke to before wiring my house told me that all lighting circuits must be on the non RCD side of the CU if you use strip lights. Souns like you may know if this is right or not???

The rational for this is that if a circuit trips the RCD in the CU, it does not turn the lights out as well. ie you can still see to reset the trip. I cant see why it should only be strip lights though, all lighting circuits should go on the non RCD side of the CU. This only applies if you have a split load CU however, if you dont then everything will go off if the RCD trips.

I dont have a split CU in the shed since I couldnt find one less than a 10 way. I only needed 2 so went for a 4 way for future expansion. You are correct in that if the shed box trips then the lights will go out, I will just have to stand still until the sound of all blades has died down and its safe to blunder into things :shock:

Hope that helps,

Steve.
 
StevieB":1odt9dok said:
I will just have to stand still until the sound of all blades has died down and its safe to blunder into things :shock:
Hope that helps,Steve.

Thats what I do. I stand completely still, in pitch darkness, until I hear the blade is stopped, than I wait another 20 seconds or so just ot be sure.

It's only happened once though.

I have a RCD between the CU and the main house fuse on the meter tails, so it takes everything lights and all when their is a fault.

Adam
 
Thanks for the info above,

BUT

My point of the thread was to get a message over to retailers that 16 amp requirements is going to be very expensive for consumers.
Retailers now need to educate their suppliers that many people might not purchase machinery in the future that reuires this higher amperage.

After all if the younger generation of the future stop buying machinery because its too expensive to fit we all in the hobby/business will suffer because retailers will fall by the wayside with less sales.
 
Oh dear, oh dear, Tony, I didn't say anything was either right or wrong - it was just a lighthearted comparison, that's all! :roll: :roll: See the smilies! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Cheers,

Trev.
 
Hi devonwoody,

It maybe that manufacturers are already picking up on this. I went to an 'open day' launch of SIP woodworking machinery at a local retailer's premises a few days ago. I was looking at their 10" cast-iron table saw with the SIP rep. who pointed out that it had a 16 amp requirement, but also told me that SIP are about to introduce a 13 amp machine in the very near future. Never occurred to me at the time that the reason might be Part P related but, in view of the point you have made, it does seem likely. Looking at the cost, quality and features of the SIP machinery (e.g. 14" bandsaw, 8 1/2" height of cut, with all the features and a superb fence - £290!) they do seem to be a switched on company and on the ball.

Cheers,

Trev.
 
Hi Trev

Nice saw aren't they

I have a couple of power tools manufactured for (by) SIP and both of them work great. Very good value kit
 
Yes, I agree Tony. I have one SIP machine at present and cannot fault it - it may not be my last. If you ever get to a show or SIP demo. day look for their rep. Charlie and do a deal. :wink:

Cheers,

Trev.
 
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