Buying a first bandsaw

[CaptainBudget]

Just exactly how big is your workshop ?

In reality a bandsaw, be it 10,12 or 14 has a very similar sized footprint, and sitting on a wheeled cart it can live in a corner until needed.

TRITON beat me to it.

My workshop is tiny (half of a partitioned single garage, and a small one at that). I was in the OP's position ~5 years ago, and with all the other junk that has to be kept in this half of the garage I physically couldn't fit a tablesaw if I wanted to.

My 10" bandsaw was bolted to a piece of plywood with Heavy Duty castors on it, and it lives in a small crevice until I need it upon which it is wheeled out, wheel brakes applied, and it does what I need. I was gifted an Axminster 1950B and in fairness at the time was probably the better "new" saw out there. Not sure how it compares to Record Power's latest offering, etc. but the build quality is really good. Only gripe is mine came with Friction guides rather than Bearing Guides and this is the one thing I'd want to change. I note they've made that change for the current lineup now (https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-workshop-aw1950b-bandsaw-230v-107711). Friction guides make a horrendous noise and I'm not convinced are as good for the blades as a Bearing Guide; my advice is always go for the latter if available at your price point and I wish I'd known that at the time (a Bearing Guide upgrade is on my list to sort at some point...)

Despite the small shop size I could have quite comfortably accommodated a 12" or even 14" bandsaw in the same space, but funds would not permit anything better than a 10". In fairness I use this to rip ~4" softwood pallet members into useable boards for projects and apart from the cutting speed in thick timber (which I think will always be an issue even with bigger saws) it's generally been OK.

Best thing you can do is buy an appropriate Tuffsaw Blade for whatever you intend to do onto whichever bandsaw you eventually buy. These are hands down the best blades I've ever used and it makes such a difference to cutting speed and quality. It's nearly halved the cutting speed on 4" timbers compared the Axminster blades I used to buy, and they were'd exactly bad blades either (certainly at the time...)

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I paid £75 for my Record RSBS14 for spares or repair. I replaced wheel and guide bearings, the capacitor, the tyres, the drive belt and the blade. About another £80 for what is effectively a new saw.
I usually use Tuffsaws, but the last blades I've bough have been Hakansson, they're also excellent.
https://www.justbandsawblades.co.uk...e=PDGCommTemplates/HF_nls2/ProdDescSilco.html

 

[recipio]

You will find that you use a bandsaw either for resawing or for curved cuts assuming you are a furniture maker. Buy the most powerful bandsaw you can and fit a 3 tpi blade to it. I would recommend the Hammer N4400 as it has a 4 HP single phase motor. I have one and an old Multico bandsaw fitted with a 3/8" blade and find I use both equally. A bandsaw should be an investment for life so quit the pints and take aways and save up for a quality saw.

 

[TRITON]

You will find that you use a bandsaw either for resawing or for curved cuts assuming you are a furniture maker.

Though it should be noted that blades for straight cuts, and that of curved cuts should be kept separate. because if you use a blade to do curved, it never really cuts straight after that.