Building New Garage Doors - Best Wood?

[Wizard_42]

Hi All - I need to replace the wooden doors on my garage and have decided to make them myself. My question is, what is the best wood to use that's not super expensive? e.g. not Oak.

I've read that Red Cedar is good? Or should I look at some sort of tanalised soft wood? What else is there?
Also, I don't plan on painting the doors, instead I was going to stain them. Would that be sufficient protection? I presume oiling them wouldn't be enough?

Any thoughts or suggestions much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[johnnyb]

the best and the most expensive normally go hand in hand! we really need a bit more detail on how you will construct it and its really important you decide how much you want to spend then go to a timberyard with a cut list.

 

[Wizard_42]

I'm really looking for suggestions for a good compromise.

There will be two opening doors covering an aperture of approx 3000mm x 2000mm. There will be one large door and one smaller door of approx 900mm. The large door will be supported by a jocky wheel at the outer edge.

My design for each door is a basic outer frame with mid rail, diagonal bracing above and below the mid rail, and T&G plank infill arranged vertically. Pretty standard stuff.

 

[eribaMotters]

If you are going to stain the doors then little use in making them out of something with nice grain etc. I made 2 sets for our last house out of softwood and soaked them in green Cuprinol prior to painting. I'd be tempted to go down the tanalised route now [similar/same chemical] and just treat cut ends before staining. I can see them eventually failing due to expansion and contraction allowing moisture in on the T&G matching. I used a solid MR mdf panel that I v grooved so avoided this issue. Still looked good 25yrs later when we moved.

Colin

 

[Doug71]

As long as the doors are well designed and well made some good quality unsorted redwood would be okay.

A few coats of Sikkens stain (and keep on top of the maintenance) and the doors should last a good few years.

 

[Wizard_42]

Thanks for the advice Doug.
What does unsorted mean?

 

[Doug71]

Unsorted is the better quality stuff (although I always think the name doesn't sound like it is!).

Basically (someone correct me if I'm wrong) softwood is graded 1st-6th with 1st being the best and 6th the worst. Unsorted is a mix of the 4 better grades so 1st-4ths.

Unsorted Swedish redwood is often thought of as the best, it's still always good to go and pick your own pieces though.

The unsorted stuff can sometimes be a bit resinous, just think of it as a natural preservative!

 

[RobinBHM]

I recommend making doors with tenoned rails into mortised stiles, then clad over with Siberian larch cladding - it's as hard as errr hardwood and almost as durable as Cedar.

 

[thetyreman]

redwood painted with linseed oil paint will last a long time. Just be wary of quality of redwood has gone down hill since early 2020, I'm guessing my supplier now gets it from russia instead of the EU, so if possible check it and make sure it's good before buying.

 

[Ollie78]

Southern yellow pine is a good bet. Much more pitch pine like than redwood.
I would say accoya but only if painting it.

 

[MikeJhn]

Deck cargo softwood and just re-make them in ten years time instead of fifteen years time, half the cost and keeps you busy.

 

[Cabinetman]

Not criticising your design at all, just wondered if you had thought of having the two doors the same size but one with a personnell access door in it. Ian

 

[Jameshow]

Larch would be my choice.

Cheers James

 

[eribaMotters]

Deck cargo softwood and just re-make them in ten years time instead of fifteen years time, half the cost and keeps you busy.

Why would you want or expect them to only last 10/15 years. My last house was built in 1928. We moved in 1995 and I replaced the casement windows [frames still solid], in softwood, treated with cuprinol and aluminium primed before water based Dulux topcoat. We moved in 2017 and they looked as new. Build it once correctly and if maintained it should outlive you.

Colin

 

[TominDales]

I used western ceder for a pair in about 2000, it was not that expensive at the time, so worth compairing price. Its very light weight and does not need staining or oiling as the natural acidity provides protectoin. As mentioned above mortice and tennon the styles and it will last forever. I'll see if I can find a picture.

 

[johnnyb]

redwood or maybe larch. a sawmill i know cuts green larch and one summer later I can make stuff from it. it's tricky to plan that far ahead though. southern yellow pine would be a bit pricey and t and g would have to be made to match.
you could economise a use fifths esp for the frame.

 

[johnnyb]

my timber yard sells at least three different t and gs. 12 15 and 20. the 20 is 99% knot free and I'm not sure what species but its yellowy. another yard sells 15mm whitewood t and g its rough stuff though!

 

[OldWood]

My brother is an extensive user of wood - professional cabinet and external wood products maker. I'm currently helping him make a 40 x 15ft wooden shed. Having seen how much movement there is in the redwood he's bought in for the window frames, I would advise avoiding that. And again from my own experience I would avoid larch as it too has a proneness to significant movement.
I've recently had to replace a number of 30 yr windows in an extension - sashes have gone and I rebuilt with douglas - very stable and a much better wood.

 

[Wizard_42]

Not criticising your design at all, just wondered if you had thought of having the two doors the same size but one with a personnell access door in it. Ian

Yes, I had but prefer one large and one small. Thanks.

 

[Wizard_42]

Thanks for your thoughts everyone.