Box Sash Renovation

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Anyone notice the ridiculous cockup? Keep in mind I'm supposed to be fitting today and I've documented everything other than supplying pictures of the inner linings.
 
I've started on the linseed oil paint on a howdens door this week. I like it - hope it works well. Needed a bit of thinning down and didn't have any turps so I had to use some kerosine!
 
biskit":1q99kukg said:
Wouldn't it be easier to fit the cord rollers while it's on the bench? Looks nice work, is it being painted?

A thousand internets to you. I totally forgot about the pulleys. I'm an *****! Thankfully I have them in stock as the old ones are buggered.
 
If you are using Allback linseed oil paint it doesn't need thinning but if it did you'd use linseed oil. It doesn't have solvents added.
For primer you use raw linseed oil straight. Best if warmed up and done in workshop before glazing, with shellac in the glazing rebates (on top of the linseed oil)
It dries OK in cold weather - just a bit slower than modern paints so you might have to work a schedule around it. But once it's primed it'll survive quite well and can be left until warmer weather comes.
 
As a footnote to this; my mate who was going to glaze the windows, dropped them off tonight saying that he couldn't glaze them as they're knackered. My immediate reaction was to agree and suggest the best solution was to go to the pub. We've been to the pub and the window still isn't fixed! :D



This is a question for Jacob and anyone else that does renovation work. At what point do you decide to renovate and at what point do you re-make?
 
Chip shop":hhwu7q7z said:
This is a question for Jacob and anyone else that does renovation work. At what point do you decide to renovate and at what point do you re-make?

Im a window cleaner, not a carpenter but for me it's when I'd have to go back and renovate them the year after because all the filler was falling out. :D
I appreciate that wasn't what you were asking though.
Here's the point I decided at my newish gaff.

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If you look at the second photo you can see the exact point where I realised I'd have to renew all the uprights (sorry don't know the right name). Balls. Live and learn. Back down the wood yard then and try and pretend I know what I'm talking about so I don't get stiffed.
Hope the heads ok tomorrow. :D
Great thread, thanks for posting.
Right, back in the quiet corner for me.
Regards
Chris
 
I met up with my client last week, having priced up for the renovation work on the understanding that I would not be certain as to the extent of work until I started, so the price was based on a worst case scenario!

We are now pricing to make replacements to compare the costs, which will include the possibility of fitting DG Sash-lite units.

There are no conditions re. Listed building or in a conservation area so that is not an issue in my case.

I suppose the bottom line is a fine one between the percentage of cost of repair and the life of the repaired unit or window, relative to making a new one.

If I work that out I will let you know.
 
biskit":q1p3vtyk said:
OK must be finished by now :) Love the action shot :D looks good though up to now. :eek:ccasion5:


Oddly enough, this one's still dragging its heals. Sashes are waiting for the builder:

 
Just out of curiosity, traditionally the liners would be housed onto the styles to keep it water proof as the wood moved. Have you had any issues with just planting the liners on?
 
deema":3fjjmuog said:
Just out of curiosity, traditionally the liners would be housed onto the styles to keep it water proof as the wood moved. Have you had any issues with just planting the liners on?

Interesting question. I don't claim to have vast experience, but I've only ever seen housed liners in books. All the box frames I've seen 'round my neck of the woods are planted on. Perhaps a regional thing? To answer your question, I've not experienced water ingress issues with planted on liners.
 
Could be, I remembered also seeing it in Gorge Ellis, Modern Practucal Joinery. Anyway, it's the way I have made them.

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The planted on method shown is for 1 1/2" common sashes and the other is for 2" sashes. Nit a lot of extra work if you have a Soindle moulder. However, I will try just planting them on next time for a small window and see how it goes on.
 

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deema":u0ptmdfs said:
Could be, I remembered also seeing it in Gorge Ellis, Modern Practucal Joinery. Anyway, it's the way I have made them.




The planted on method shown is for 1 1/2" common sashes and the other is for 2" sashes. Nit a lot of extra work if you have a Soindle moulder. However, I will try just planting them on next time for a small window and see how it goes on.


Yeah, I think it was Ellis where I saw that detail. I've always just copied what was already there. All the stuff I've seen has been country work, so I assume it's perhaps a bit rough and ready, but fit for purpose. I've always assumed Ellis's stuff was tailored for chippys daaaan Laaandaan way, where they're a bit posher than yokels like me.

EDIT: 'cos I didn't want to double post...and I had an idle thought while I was supposed to be putting up guttering!

That tongue on the pulley stiles makes sense on a bit of paper, but I'm not sure how much difference it'll make in real life. If timber's gonna move, there's not much that's going to stop it.
 
deema":3o6qcja2 said:
Not a lot of extra work if you have a Spindle moulder. However, I will try just planting them on next time for a small window and see how it goes on.
I make em the same way as you- personally I'd stick with the method you use already.It's got a much bigger glue area, easy to locate, no straight through joint incase the glue fails etc etc. The pros of it make it worth the extra effort imho.

Coley
 

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