Bookcase project WIP (a bit long)Update1

[neilc]

For my latest project I'm building another norm project. Last year I built the shaker bookcase but this now is bursting at the seams so I've decided to go build a couple of barrister ones and maybe convert the shaker one to displaying my dvd in the cinema room.

I went to a new timber supplier for me for the supplies for the project with the intension of getting white oak but on impulse came away with ash. I'm not to sure it was a good idea in hindsight :? . I'm just wondering would a barrister bookcase look right in that light a timber and if not does ash take stain well having never used it before. Opinions on that would be very welcome.

Anyway here goes with the pictures of the project to date. This is my first time going public with any of my projects so go easy on me guys :lol: .

First up is the plan and timber supplies

I got started by rough cutting the solid ash to rough sizes. I use a program called Cutlist for this which I find very good.

After a bit of jointing and planning I'm ready to start working on the sides.

I started the sides by rabbiting the panels an creating a grove for the stiles and rails

I cut all the stiles in batches of four to try and get an exact same length on all pieces. By the way for anyone who seen a previous post of mine about the rust on the tablesaw cast thanks to all the advice I got here this is a good example how is came out.

Next came the first glue up of the project and attaching the false dividers. Please ignore the lead in the second picture, I'm a spark by trade and as always that the last job that gets done in my house .

The four panels sanded on the outside.

Finally on the sides dadoing and rabbiting for the shelves, base and back.

I know the people around here either love dados or hate them :lol: but I can't imagine ever going back to using a router for this kind of operation. With a bit of careful setup you get a perfect fit.

Well thats it for now, hope I haven't gone overboard on the pictures. I will update in a week or so when there is a bit more progress.
Neil.

P.S. Advice on the finish, stain etc.. would be appreciated

 

[Waka]

Neil

Its looking pretty good, keep us up to date with WIP.

 

[Philly]

Neil
Great pics, thanks for sharing!
I love Ash-don't worry about staining it. Danish oil is an easy finish that works well on Ash.
Ands that lead-scary :twisted:
Keep up the good work,
Philly

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks for showing and I am interested to see your progress.

You mention software called 'cutlist'. Can you give an explanation how it works?
Do you tell the software what timber you have got and what finished dimensions you need?

Could save me some grey hairs :wink:

Which model of tablesaw have you got that takes the dado cutter?

 

[tim]

Neil

Looks really good - looking forward to seeing the finished article. Ash comes up a treat with Finishing oil as well I find

You mention software called 'cutlist'. Can you give an explanation how it works?
Do you tell the software what timber you have got and what finished dimensions you need?

Exactly - its a very useful piece of kit esp for sheet goods (which is why I got it) but I use it a lot now for layout of timber as well and job quoting. The free level is probably all you need but even the gold version is not that expensive.

http://cutlistplus.com/Default.aspx

Cheers

Tim

 

[dedee]

Neil, thanks for posting great pics but that wiring is shocking :shock:

How is that tall vertical fence held up on the TS?

Andy

 

[CYC]

Neil, thanks for all the pictures, you can never post too many

Can I ask you:
- The sheets you made you panels of, I can't see very well but is it ash veneered MDF?
- How much was that pile of ash plank you show on the picture? I still haven't bought any hardwood, I manage to get some oak planks from France when my Father visits.
- On the last picture, showing your dadoes, what are the planks made of, did you glue 2 seperate layers there?

Cutlistplus is the business, the best $25 spent. Especially for Sheets cutting.

 

[gwaithcoed]

Hi Neil,

Looking very good, and no I don't think you can post too many pics as it gives other members a chance to pick up tips etc.

Cheers Alan.

PS know what you mean about electrics, was an electrician myself, perhaps we think we are immune to it, but I can tell you when it does bite it b----y well hurts.

 

[neilc]

You mention software called 'cutlist'. Can you give an explanation how it works?
Which model of tablesaw have you got that takes the dado cutter?

As Tim said its a very handy bit of kit. You just punch in your material list, tell it what stock you have and it works out the most efficient layout for you. You can allow for kerf, trim, whether you would rather cross cuts or rip cuts first. I have the silver edition and highly recommend it.

The saw is a Delta unisaw model 36-831 which I was lucky enough to be allowed import from the states last year . The deal was if the LOML got a new piano I was allowed get a unisaw. So it really cost me double but hey what the hell.

How is that tall vertical fence held up on the TS?

Its just 18mm ply with 2 blocks of timber screwed to it which sits on top of the fence and a couple of clamps which catch the other side of the fence. You can just make it out in one of the pictures.

- The sheets you made you panels of, I can't see very well but is it ash veneered MDF?
- How much was that pile of ash plank you show on the picture? I still haven't bought any hardwood, I manage to get some oak planks from France when my Father visits.
- On the last picture, showing your dadoes, what are the planks made of, did you glue 2 seperate layers there?

Yes they're 18mm ash mdf.
The six lengths of timber are all roughly 6 x 1 x 12 foot give or take. It cost around 90 euro. Not sure if it was a good price or not as its the fist time I've used both ash and the supplier I got it off.
The solid stiles and rails fit into the rabbits and groves made in the mdf sheets.


Philly and Tim,
I think I might give the danish oil a go. Apart from not designing my own stuff finishing is what I find the hardest thing about a project. I lot of hard work can easily be ruined by a bad discission in that department.

Neil.

 

[Anonymous]

Looking good so far

 

[johnelliott]

It might be worthwhile pointing out for the benefit of people thinking about buying some Ash that the wood in these pictures is American ash, sometimes referred to as white ash, and it's different from English ash. It's lighter in colour, and the growth lines tend to be further apart. Also important is that it comes in square edged boards, which makes for less waste and easier handling.
Danish oil is an excellent finish for this wood, and very easy to apply. I would suggest a couple of brush-on, wipe-off coats, a quick going over with grey scotchbrite and then stop. It's not necessary to obtain a shine, or even a sheen, with danish oil on american ash, it will look great finished as I have described.

I'm interested in the dado cutting. Not so much the actual cutter itself, but in how the material is guided across the cutter. I didn't see a sliding table on the saw. How is the material kept moving in a straight line for each cut so that the slots produced remain parallel with each other?

John

 

[Offcut]

Also would be interested in how you created the dado's.


Andy

 

[bramers]

are you a yank? if not where did you import/ buy your table saw from?

 

[devonwoody]

try this

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q= ... arch&meta=

:roll:

 

[neilc]

I'm interested in the dado cutting. Not so much the actual cutter itself, but in how the material is guided across the cutter. I didn't see a sliding table on the saw. How is the material kept moving in a straight line for each cut so that the slots produced remain parallel with each other?

No there is no sliding table on the saw. It is fairly easy to produce an accurate cut with a bit of care by simply pushing the stock through the dado against the fence. The trick is applying wax to the surface of the table which keeps it nice and slick. This in turn also keeps the rust away which is necessary in my shop as its metal which can be seen in the pictures. For narrower stock I just use my mitre gauge.

are you a yank? if not where did you import/ buy your table saw from?

No I'm not a yank most defiantly Irish (actually a plastic paddy as I was born in London). I imported it directly from the states from a company called Woodworker's Supply who can be found here. I dealt with a really sound guy called Clay Taylor who takes care of their international orders.
Neil

 

[bramers]

finaly how much did it cost toataly i mean everything included and what is your model? thanks

 

[neilc]

The model number is 36-831. As to your other question a policeman wouldn't ask me that. LOML might read this have to be careful .
Neil

Edit - Actually for what I spent I don't thing you will get anything here as good, but that just my opinion. Best money I ever spent.

 

[bramers]

what about the power supply how do you get round that? i am interested because i will either import a delta or buy an xcallibar 804

 

[johnelliott]

what about the power supply how do you get round that? i am interested because i will either import a delta or buy an xcallibar 804

Make sure you check out what sliding table options are available (for both saws), you will want something with a travel of at least 48"

John

 

[neilc]

what about the power supply how do you get round that?

No problem with the power supply 230V 60Hz. As we're 50Hz over here it just runs a bit slower not that you would notice.
Neil