MikeG.
Established Member
Inspector":pielitsy said:
Dowelled coopering! I've not seen that before.
Best method of making accurate bevels.
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Dowelled coopering! I've not seen that before.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
I have to admit I only watched the edge planing and fitting and then stopped because it illustrated what I wanted to say. I didn't watch the whole video until I saw your comment. New to me too. 
Pete
Pete
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Some way to go. He hasn't asked about sharpening yet! :lol:will1983":13vz59ji said:
Yes, very good, moving on...again.
Once the curve is complete can I use my form work to act as a guide to trim the edges? Is it the done thing to run a router over a curved surface?
Jacob, I was going to order an Axminster shapening kit for my plane blades but any thoughts on alternatives would be appreciated
Once the curve is complete can I use my form work to act as a guide to trim the edges? Is it the done thing to run a router over a curved surface?
Jacob, I was going to order an Axminster shapening kit for my plane blades but any thoughts on alternatives would be appreciated
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
You can use the form to trim the panel to size but, the bottom of the router is flat and you're working on a curved surface so there could be a bit of wobble. Better is to saw a bit outside the form and then hand plane or sand to the final size unless you are certain you can hold the router steady. The router can, depending on the bit, the cut direction, amount your are cutting, splinter off some chunks from the ends at the corners.
Pete
Pete
Forgot to say thanks for the post re. coopering and the explanation, really interesting and that's a serious plane!
I have a fair bit of experience with a router and have a 1/2" Trend which is not small but have been trying to get to grips with some Japanese saws I bought which might be safer I guess.
Another question, what should I try to smooth the surfaces of the curve, sand?
I have a fair bit of experience with a router and have a 1/2" Trend which is not small but have been trying to get to grips with some Japanese saws I bought which might be safer I guess.
Another question, what should I try to smooth the surfaces of the curve, sand?
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
You're welcome.
I would plane the joints of the convex surfaces and then sand the rest with sanding blocks. It won't take long.
Pete
I would plane the joints of the convex surfaces and then sand the rest with sanding blocks. It won't take long.
Pete
worn thumbs
Established Member
Sanding will get the job done ................................................................................ eventually.I have the choice of using any of a number of curved planes and spokeshaves,together with a few shaped scrapers.
You would be well advised to organise firm support for the concave side as there is a risk of breaking the thing if too much pressure is applied.Probably best to take a sliver or two off the outside of the staves before glue up.
You would be well advised to organise firm support for the concave side as there is a risk of breaking the thing if too much pressure is applied.Probably best to take a sliver or two off the outside of the staves before glue up.
MikeG.
Established Member
worn thumbs":2bwyqnyp said:
This is why I would have made a form of the other side of the curve. In other words, had a convex former not concave, and put the staves on the outside. They could then stay there for the clean up.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
Pssst worn thumbs. I didn't suggest planes and scrapers because he doesn't have that stuff. The thought just occurred to me though that his CNC buddy could put them in the CNC and shape and trim them. Then there would only be some light sanding needed to prep them for finishing.
Pete
Pete
Thanks Guys,
That makes sense but I reckon your overthinking it
I will make your recommended amendments to the former, thanks for that, exactly what I need, your experience is most welcome and helpful. On the convex side theres only 1mm on the peaks, I have planes, cabinet scrapers and sand paper but I wouldn't be out of the question to buy some more tools. I was looking at pattern makers planes but can't find anywhere that sells new ones just yet.
That makes sense but I reckon your overthinking it
I will make your recommended amendments to the former, thanks for that, exactly what I need, your experience is most welcome and helpful. On the convex side theres only 1mm on the peaks, I have planes, cabinet scrapers and sand paper but I wouldn't be out of the question to buy some more tools. I was looking at pattern makers planes but can't find anywhere that sells new ones just yet.
Thanks Pete,
I have used CNC before for various horn projects but I don't get any joy out of the process, I am enjoying hand tools and find that gives me a more positive feeling about making things. I think I would rather make something badly by hand than CNC it these days.
This is a pair of horns I did a few years back.
Attachments
worn thumbs
Established Member
If you make the former to suit the other side of the job you still need to support it for the other operation.I would go with the former as planned and after cleaning up the first side,I would stick some wide masking tape to the perfect surface and then cut some ply or MDF formers to a good approximation of the shape so that it can be supported while finishing the other side.A few dabs of hot melt glue and off you go.
If you need a shaped plane,just make one.A chunk of beech and a block plane iron will get you a long way.A good day should do it.For the very moderate curvature on both sides a sharp flat spokeshave will do almost anything necessary.
If you need a shaped plane,just make one.A chunk of beech and a block plane iron will get you a long way.A good day should do it.For the very moderate curvature on both sides a sharp flat spokeshave will do almost anything necessary.
Hi again all,
I am in the process of gluing up my staves and am thinking ahead to fairing out my curve. I did a few trial runs with some pine and on the convex side used my jointer to take away the peaks and sanded it out. On the concave side I cut some sanding blocks conforming to the curve and used those which worked nicely but was time consuming. I used a cabinet scraper to remove any residual glue.
Has anybody got any further suggestions to ease this process, I was looking at sanders with an "interface" pad but just wanted to check in for any other ideas or thoughts.
Cheers,
Si.
I am in the process of gluing up my staves and am thinking ahead to fairing out my curve. I did a few trial runs with some pine and on the convex side used my jointer to take away the peaks and sanded it out. On the concave side I cut some sanding blocks conforming to the curve and used those which worked nicely but was time consuming. I used a cabinet scraper to remove any residual glue.
Has anybody got any further suggestions to ease this process, I was looking at sanders with an "interface" pad but just wanted to check in for any other ideas or thoughts.
Cheers,
Si.
Attachments
A large round soled plane.
This would be an old, wooden plane but don't let that put you off.
Large sizes of hollows and rounds are not often needed, so often survive in good condition from sets. Look on eBay or at the handful of real world used tool dealers. Expect to pay no more than a tenner.
This would be an old, wooden plane but don't let that put you off.
Large sizes of hollows and rounds are not often needed, so often survive in good condition from sets. Look on eBay or at the handful of real world used tool dealers. Expect to pay no more than a tenner.
Benchwayze
Established Member
Simon.
The only time I ever did any 'coopered' work, was a bow-fronted pine corner cupboard for a dealer.
To make the doors, I built an accurate 'former' of MDF, clamped it to my bench, and got out a Record No. 6.
I hadn't a clue about coopering, but I could make a good rubbed joint. So, I merely planed a bevel on the edge of the first lath, and then fitted the next one to suit. I continued like that until I was knee-deep in shavings and had two curved doors. I'm sure all the bevels were different, but they all fitted properly. I achieved what I wanted without too much trouble, and as far as I know the cupboard is still okay. I doubt very much if that was the proper way to do it, but it worked. I never had any negative feed-back anyhow. The dealer BTW was a friend (Sadly now passed) and he probably made four times the price he gave me, but hey; what are friends for? 8)
The difficult part was removing the 'flats' from the inside curves, but I picked up a rounded sole moulding plane at an antique fair, and did it with that! The laths were certainly a lot thinner than when I started, but that was fine, as the doors looked all the more elegant; well I think they did!
All, that probably won't help, but I can always hope!"
All the best Simon.
John
The only time I ever did any 'coopered' work, was a bow-fronted pine corner cupboard for a dealer.
To make the doors, I built an accurate 'former' of MDF, clamped it to my bench, and got out a Record No. 6.
I hadn't a clue about coopering, but I could make a good rubbed joint. So, I merely planed a bevel on the edge of the first lath, and then fitted the next one to suit. I continued like that until I was knee-deep in shavings and had two curved doors. I'm sure all the bevels were different, but they all fitted properly. I achieved what I wanted without too much trouble, and as far as I know the cupboard is still okay. I doubt very much if that was the proper way to do it, but it worked. I never had any negative feed-back anyhow. The dealer BTW was a friend (Sadly now passed) and he probably made four times the price he gave me, but hey; what are friends for? 8)
The difficult part was removing the 'flats' from the inside curves, but I picked up a rounded sole moulding plane at an antique fair, and did it with that! The laths were certainly a lot thinner than when I started, but that was fine, as the doors looked all the more elegant; well I think they did!
All, that probably won't help, but I can always hope!"
All the best Simon.
John
MikeG.
Established Member
Benchwayze":2616h0mj said:
No, John, it absolutely was the proper way to do it.
Benchwayze
Established Member
Thanks Mike.
I truly didn't realise that. Never done work like that before or since. It just seemed the most common-sense way to me. I always believed I was a 'born' woodworker'! :mrgreen: Yeah, right!
My 'Mentor' ( mentioned below) used to say, 'Never, as long as you have a hole under your nose!'
But I think he was joking! I hope...
Thanks again Mike.
John (hammer)
I truly didn't realise that. Never done work like that before or since. It just seemed the most common-sense way to me. I always believed I was a 'born' woodworker'! :mrgreen: Yeah, right!
My 'Mentor' ( mentioned below) used to say, 'Never, as long as you have a hole under your nose!'
But I think he was joking! I hope...
Thanks again Mike.
John (hammer)
Thanks for the replies, John, my experience was a similar one as predicted by Mike and a few other kind contributors. My drawings acted only as a guide/approximation so began undercutting the bevels and offering them up and adjusted to fit, on some of the really small bevels I just skewed the blade in my jointer which seemed to do the trick. Lots of practice on scrap before I started was a good idea for me.
I found that some sanding blocks cut to the underside of the curve (concave side) with some 40 grit was enough to shape as they are only shallow curves and then a cabinet scraper worked nicely but I do have some curved bottomed planes turning up to try for the slightly tighter curves I am yet to make.
I used a Veritas jointer with the adjustable fence which was great from a beginners perspective but it wasn't that accurate so really just acted as a guide as I tweaked in the bevels. I am yet to finish the top face of the curve so will report back when I'm done.
I found that some sanding blocks cut to the underside of the curve (concave side) with some 40 grit was enough to shape as they are only shallow curves and then a cabinet scraper worked nicely but I do have some curved bottomed planes turning up to try for the slightly tighter curves I am yet to make.
I used a Veritas jointer with the adjustable fence which was great from a beginners perspective but it wasn't that accurate so really just acted as a guide as I tweaked in the bevels. I am yet to finish the top face of the curve so will report back when I'm done.
