Bench Top Advice - MDF or Baltic Birch Multiplex

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Titus A Duxass

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Because I have a small workshop (cellar) I need to build a fold away workstation.

I have found several plans for a similar design, which is a cupboard screwed to the wall which has a drop down table.

The table/bench top is 150 cm x 60 cm and both plans recommend 19mm BB Multiplex Ply.
For me that means 64 euro just for the bench top.

I am considering MDF, I think that two pieces of 19mm back to back edge banded with Beech with a sacrificial 5mm HDF surface would be up to the job but...

Naturally I would seal the MDF with varnish/epoxy first but my concerns are with sag and screwing in to the MDF.

Would it sag? Is MDF a non-starter - your thoughts please.
 
A lot depends on what sort of work you are hoping to do on the work surface - it'd be better if you could be more specific on this.

I'm no expert, but it's fairly clear that if for example you plan to work with hand tools (e.g. chop down with chisels) that the surface needs for stability to be as thick and consequently heavy as possible.

You might also want to think about work holding and clamping. Varnish is probably going to give too slippery a surface too, so you might think of alternatives like Danish oil.

A free standing table you can get around might be more flexible to work with.

It's not cheap, but if fairly conventional woodworking is the plan there's probably lots of idea which you could borrow from the not much larger Festool MFT/3 multifunction table: http://www.axminster.co.uk/festool-fest ... rod784613/ Bear in mind that it's more power tool oriented.

There were a few threads here mostly before I was around which discussed ideas for low cost DIY entry level woodworking systems too, probably worth a look...
 
Okay taking ondablade's comments in to consideration.

I will be doing general work on it.
I will have a demountable metal work vice on it.
It will also have a woodworkers vice at the right hand corner.

The varnished MDF surface will not be the working surface, the sacrificial 5mm had will be the working suface and can be finished with whatever gives the best grip.

It needs to be fold away with a storage cupboard as I am really short of space especially when my router table is in action.
 
my shop in only about 1000sf,and i have to make things do more than on thing. i use the out feed table for a bench at times. it can be removed with two bolts. whats great is the table saw is heavy so the bench does not move. i like the baltic grade B/BB as you can see. i think it is just more gracefull than mdf.
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jack
 
tool613":2bnmiudb said:
my shop in only about 1000sf,and i have to make things do more than on thing. i use the out feed table for a bench at times. it can be removed with two bolts. whats great is the table saw is heavy so the bench does not move. i like the baltic grade B/BB as you can see. i think it is just more gracefull than mdf.
IMG_0607.jpg

IMG_0611.jpg

IMG_0609.jpg



jack

Speaking of someone who squeezes his workshop into a 12 x 8' shed, I can only dream of 1000 sq feet :D
 
Very nice - 1000sf
I have an area 2.1 m x 2.5 m.

Yes BB Ply does look good but it still doesn't answer my question.
I think I'll take a chance on the MDF.
 
Hi i'm doing an mdf bench at the moment and from the info i could find most people have recommended bracing it every 400mm spacing. i'm going to use 2x 18mm mdf laminated together abd only 600 mm deep and braced lengthways along the centre, with a sacrificial top maybe tufnol maybe hdf or hardboard. I guess only time will tell if it will sag but i think if you build the top on a frame supported every 400mm it might be ok. I'm new on this one too so no expert.
Regarding screwing into mdf i have always pre drilled and used drywall screws and not had trouble with splitting using this method.

P.S. I'd love a link to those plans if you've got them available?

Maybe someone else has some experience with mdf sagging stc?
 

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