Aluninium Plate OR Something As Good

[Mike.C]

I was going to join in with DevonWoody and Martin to buy some ali to make a zero clearance insert for our table saws https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=22915 but unfortunately because I have a 12" saw, the extra length needed would have meant the charges would have been excessive (have I got that right John?) and so I was wondering if anyone has got a spare piece of this sort of metal, or something like it, laying around their shop which they would kindly like to sell me?

It needs to be at least 520mmx115mmx3mm or there abouts.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Slim]

Hi Mike,

Have you tried Ebay? There is usually plenty of aluminium sheet for sale.


Hope this helps.

 

[tsb]

Can you explain to me what a zero clearance insert is and what is the purpose of one. Thanks

 

[Mike.C]

Hi Simon,

John was actually doing the deal and thats where he was getting it from, but I will have a look around.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Mike.C]

Hi tsb,

Basically it's so the gap where the blade exits is smaller, so that thinner bits of wood have less chance of falling into the gap, or worse still they slip into the gap and are then kicked backed out at you.

Cheers

Mike

 

[woodbloke]

I haven't got one of the Axminster saws but I made an acceptable zero tol insert for my K419 out of some decent quality, flat birch ply...works a treat - Rob

 

[Slim]

Hi tsb,

Basically it's so the gap where the blade exits is smaller, so that thinner bits of wood have less chance of falling into the gap, or worse still they slip into the gap and are then kicked backed out at you.

Cheers

Mike

It also reduces the chance of tearout, as the workpiece is supported right up to the blade.

 

[Mike.C]

Thanks Rob, when I got back into the workshop I have always intended to make one from ply, but on reading DW's post I thought it is a much better idea because it will last much longer without wearing out.

Cheers

Mike

 

[woodbloke]

Thanks Rob, when I got back into the workshop I have always intended to make one from ply, but on reading DW's post I thought it is a much better idea because it will last much longer without wearing out.

Cheers

Mike

Mike - I made mine in the usual way by raising the blade carefully thru' the material. Once it was done I took it out and filed the slot (using a very thin warding file) just fraction bigger so that the blade never actually touches the insert, so in theory it ought not to wear at all - Rob

 

[J D Architectural Joinery]

what happens to your zero tolerance when you change blades, ie kerf size. Does it not pse a risk if the chance of higher blade binding in the event if thin shims do fall, gradually forcing the blade to bind against the alu. then all the money you have spent on alu was defeating the purpose.
I would have thought depending on what you make and how often you use your saw, with heat and the expansion of the blade and other factors, it ai't long until you realise it ain't no more 0 tolerance.
Is there a reason that machinery manufacturers do not make 0 tolerance inserts. Or do they and its just the price that puts people off them.
I know when I am machining wedges for joints, I just place a thin piece of ply through the blade.

 

[Steve Maskery]

OK all, can I be a heretic here?

Zero clearance plates are great, I use them regularly.

I also think that they should be regarded as disposable, so I don't think that Al is a good material. It's way too expensive and it has a high drag factor unless it is anodized. If you cut softwood it clings like mad.

My Z-plates are made from...MDF! I make a batch up, and use and throw them. If I am using one with a low blade height, I can use it again for a higher blade position, but as soon as I back off the blade, it's not zero-clearance anymore, is it? Yes, at the sides, I know, but if I am cutting a fragile-surface laminate (and why else would I be using a Z-plate?) then it's as important to have zero clearance at the tip of the blade as at the side.

Go on, tell me I'm wrong.
S

 

[Mike.C]

J D Architectural Joinery wrote,

Is there a reason that machinery manufacturers do not make 0 tolerance inserts. Or do they and its just the price that puts people off them.

I think the reason they do not supply them is because you cannot tilt the blade with them. As for the price, they are just too bloody tight to supply both.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Digit]

There's another down side to them as well, they can seriously effect the dust extraction on some machines.

Roy.

 

[motownmartin]

OK all, can I be a heretic here?

Zero clearance plates are great, I use them regularly.

I also think that they should be regarded as disposable, so I don't think that Al is a good material. It's way too expensive and it has a high drag factor unless it is anodized. If you cut softwood it clings like mad.

My Z-plates are made from...MDF! I make a batch up, and use and throw them. If I am using one with a low blade height, I can use it again for a higher blade position, but as soon as I back off the blade, it's not zero-clearance anymore, is it? Yes, at the sides, I know, but if I am cutting a fragile-surface laminate (and why else would I be using a Z-plate?) then it's as important to have zero clearance at the tip of the blade as at the side.

Go on, tell me I'm wrong.
S

Good point Steve, I made one out of Beech and it split through vibration, so now I am having one made out of Ally thanks to Devonwoody, I use it for cutting thin strips of wood mitres. but may make some out of mdf for other jobs.

 

[Mike.C]

Digit wrote,

There's another down side to them as well, they can seriously effect the dust extraction on some machines.

Roy, another good point, but the blade cover extraction is crap on mine anyway, so it won't make much difference.

Cheers

Mike

 

[Digit]

So it is on mine, another job for the future!

 

[Steve Maskery]

DX should not be affected. After all, you did remember to drill a large finger-hole in it before you put it in the machine, didn't you?

As for 45deg tilt. lower the blade, tilt it to your angle, then raise it through the plate. You can get 2 cuts from one plate by turning it round.

S

 

[motownmartin]

As for 45deg tilt. lower the blade, tilt it to your angle, then raise it through the plate.

S

Steve won't that only work if you have a tilting table, or have I missed something :?

 

[Anonymous]

OK all, can I be a heretic here?

Zero clearance plates are great, I use them regularly.

I also think that they should be regarded as disposable, so I don't think that Al is a good material. It's way too expensive and it has a high drag factor unless it is anodized. If you cut softwood it clings like mad.

My Z-plates are made from...MDF! I make a batch up, and use and throw them. If I am using one with a low blade height, I can use it again for a higher blade position, but as soon as I back off the blade, it's not zero-clearance anymore, is it? Yes, at the sides, I know, but if I am cutting a fragile-surface laminate (and why else would I be using a Z-plate?) then it's as important to have zero clearance at the tip of the blade as at the side.

Go on, tell me I'm wrong.
S

I'll tell you that you are partially wrong :lol:

The extra drag is true, but not a problem for me as I wax the tablesaw surface anyway.

the ali was free (lucky me :wink: ) and the zero insert is great with no issues. I used ply in the past, but the ali one has lasted 3/4 of a year without needing replacement and works as well now as the day I made it - I am confued that you seem to think the gap widens with use? maybe you have a lot of runout on your blade?

 

[misterfish]

Yes - a consumable item. I made an outline template from my original in MDF with a bearing guided trimming router bit so I can quicky produce blanks as and when I need them. I also put a 'reminder' to drill finger holes.

I'm sure some of you will have seen Norm using a replacement insert plate with replaceable oak inserts - sort of replacement insert inserts! There's even an opportunity for somebody with a few quid to spare to buy the company in question. http://www.wooddynamics.com/

Misterfish