Aluninium Plate OR Something As Good

[Steve Maskery]

Steve won't that only work if you have a tilting table, or have I missed something :?

No, the whole trunnion tilts, doesn't it? The blade rises and falls in its own plane, whatever angle it is at. Try it with the plate out and you'll see what I mean.

S

 

[chippy1970]

Steve,

You say aluminium isnt a good material for the job but in my case the insert has to be 3mm thick so ply or mdf just wont work.

I tried 6mm mdf but you have to rout sections out on the underside for the rebate in the saw table and the little bits that the screws go into to hold the insert.

My saw is a mobile contractor type the Elektra Bekum TS250.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Fair enough, if you can't you can't.

Could you do it with thicker MDF and rout a rebate around the edge to leave 3mm? I realize that that is more work. Just a thought.

S

 

[motownmartin]

Steve won't that only work if you have a tilting table, or have I missed something :?

No, the whole trunnion tilts, doesn't it? The blade rises and falls in its own plane, whatever angle it is at. Try it with the plate out and you'll see what I mean.

S

I take your word for it Steve

 

[chippy1970]

Steve,

Thats what I did routed the 6mm around the edge down to 3mm and where the screws go into under the insert.

If I get time I will take some pics and post them here.

 

[chippy1970]

As promised here are some photos of the insert I made.

The above shows it fitted to my Elektra Beckum TS250.

This one shows the original Aluminium insert that came with the saw and above it you can see how I had to rout out sections of the 6mm mdf to fit the insert.

 

[Mike.C]

Nice one Chippy thanks.

I see you like your Festool :lol:

Cheers

Mike

 

[chippy1970]

Nice one Chippy thanks.

I see you like your Festool :lol:

Cheers

Mike

Yeah but I am not addicted :lol:

Well I keep telling myself that :lol:

 

[Mike.C]

Chippy1970 wrote,

Mike.C wrote:
Nice one Chippy thanks.

I see you like your Festool

Cheers

Mike


Yeah but I am not addicted

Well I keep telling myself that

Yeah but you forget that we can see the reflection in the blade of the other 6 boxes :lol:

Cheers

Mike

 

[chippy1970]

I wish :lol:

I have just been offered a very good deal on a brand new Kapex at my Festool dealer but so far I have resisted

 

[devonwoody]

Chippy, that original plate supplied for your machine, (the black plate) is that a laminate? (ali, plastic)

I have got my new ali plate fitted for zero clearance , the old ply plate I had made previously warped over the winter and it front leading edge raised above the table.
The thicker mdf plates are most probably not suitable for the 10" axminster because the insert does not have a straight edge all around its rim, you could do a fiddle perhaps, anyway how far does the blade flange come up the blade, that might foul the underside of the plate.

 

[chippy1970]

Hi DW,

No its solid aluminium about 2.2mm thick I think thats 13 gauge wise.

The mdf I used was 6mm so no it doesnt foul on anything even if I used thicker mdf I think it would be ok. As you can see I had to router out underneath to fit around all the little bits and bobs.

 

[devonwoody]

Pleased to report that aluminum plate from ebay arrived in good condition overnight, and two inserts made up for Axminster 10" tablesaw as per pictures below.

cut to shape

Fitted but awaiting blade cut. BTW. have a cardboard box over the insert when blade is raised, I got showered with ali dust doing the first one, and still finding it indoors after two days.

 

[Mike.C]

Nice one John =D> How did you actually cut the insert?

Cheers

Mike

 

[devonwoody]

I've got an M42 blade on the bandsaw and it will cut metal as well as close grain timber.

 

[Anonymous]

BTW. have a cardboard box over the insert when blade is raised, I got showered with ali dust doing the first one, and still finding it indoors after two days.

I did tell you to do this John as I realised pretty quickly it was needed - you really must pay more attention :lol: :lol: :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

Steve

you didn't answer my question re: you thinking the gap widens with use.

Do you raise and lower the blade whislt running?, as that might cause it to widen, with the blade stationary when raising and lowering, i don't get this problem

 

[devonwoody]

Been looking at insert plates made of plastic and wood and they have versions fitted with a splitter, some only an inch high) no riving knives.
I think they also rely on hold downs fitted to fence or mitre gauge slot to stop timber lifting.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Steve

you didn't answer my question re: you thinking the gap widens with use.

Do you raise and lower the blade whislt running?, as that might cause it to widen, with the blade stationary when raising and lowering, i don't get this problem

Tony
My point was about Z-clearance at the tip. A cutting tooth will lift the surface in a fan shape, won't it, so if there is no support at the tip, then you can still get breakout even though it is Z-clearance at the sides.

As it happens, I do think that they wear a little bit with age, but this is probably due to the sideways move of a thin-kerf blade at different heights. I know that when I fit a new one it is visibly crisper than the old. Having said that, one will last ages, and I don't see it as a problem.

I wouldn't necessarily stop the saw before adjusting the blade height, no.

S