8.A New toy

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I chose a Wanhoa I3 V2.1 3D printer as the company retirement gift nearly 5 years ago as it was an expensive toy I couldn't really justify but as a present thats OK, it's come in useful a few times and it's a bit dated now but yesterday printed out these tuner knobs to replace split originals, should have finished them to rub off the rough bits but wanted to see how they fitted and worked first. print time 36min each setting on top quality.
 

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Yes. We're talking about 3D printed things - and that's very much ON topic. The point is that keen new 3D printer owners rush around, 3D printing EVERYTHING. In the case of a feather board, you need to step back and ask, "Is this a good way to make a feather board?"
It is not a matter just of how - or what filament. It involves engaging brain and asking, "Is this the best way to make, basically, a flat sheet of material with diagonal cuts in it?
You can see that the printer is 6.5 hours into a print and has used (wild guess) £5-£10 worth of filament. Again, my guess is that the design is one downloaded - so not a lot of time there. You can buy an ABS (stronger) featherboard for around £13 or, as Jacob says, make one in 5 minutes from scrap.
So, the point is... lovely and clever it may be; but is this the most appropriate technology?

Yes, I do have a 3D printer. Yes, I do use it for jobs where a 3D printer is appropriate. Yes, I do have several extractor hose adaptors. (And yes, Inspector, my cones are longer!!) In the same way, yes, I do have a small laser engraver - but I DON'T use it for printing rubbishy "etchings" of photos on wood or canvas just because it can. There are more appropriate ways to put a photo onto an item that will look better.

In a similar vein; my teacher used to say, "You can,, indeed, cross the Sahara in a Mini. It has been done. If you are considering crossing the Sahara though, you need also to consider whether a Mini is the most appropriate means of doing so. Or whether, perhaps, a camel might be better."
Oh bloody hell, it's the 3D police.
 
I’ve had a 3D printer a few years and I can confirm it’s one of the best decisions to purchase. I have the Prusa mk3s mmu I have repaired broken parts on many of my tools using the right plastic made many tool helping gadgets and many parts for my hobby air rifle shootin.

Same, it really is extremely useful. I have saved a couple of vacuums from the landfill by replacing the broken parts that were otherwise unavailable.

Thanks for the info @pops92 , how good are these printers in the quality of the finished product and is there any cleanup required like when something is taken out of a sand mold?
This sounds like something that a company I worked for in the eighties used to make prototype parts except they were in a form of paper mache and it was the size of a container but it worked on layers. How well do the layers adhere to the previous layer and are they visible in the finished product?

I assume the drawing needs to be a 3d model, not 2D so what formats can the Splicer software accept because 3d CAD can be expensive, but I suppose it depends on what you are trying to make.

The quality is extremely good if set up properly. However you get visible layer lines and the print will be porous. This can easily be solved by painting them with resin or other similar offerings on the internet. People are using the concept of 3d printing carbon fibre molds which is something I might actually try out!

There is quite a lot of free 3D software available, with an abundance of YouTube videos offering excellent tutorials.
 
You can see that the printer is 6.5 hours into a print and has used (wild guess) £5-£10 worth of filament. Again, my guess is that the design is one downloaded - so not a lot of time there. You can buy an ABS (stronger) featherboard for around £13 or, as Jacob says, make one in 5 minutes from scrap.

Your wild guess is far off. Depending on his slicer settings, the actual cost of a 6.5 hour print with PLA is average £1.50, which includes the electric and filament.
 
I too have an Ender 3 v2 with a number of mods (though not quite as many by the looks of pops92's photo). It's a great budget machine.

You can use free CAD tools such as SketchUp Make (with a plugin to export to STL format) to make your objects (though plenty of designs are available from Thingiverse and others).

Slicing software for FDM printers is readily available; Cura is great, and completely free.

I use PLA filament (and some PLA+). It can be brittle, and doesn't stand up to heat that well, but I've rarely found it a problem. Other filaments such as PETG or ABS are a bit more difficult to print, and the budget printers won't generally do the most "difficult" filaments as the hot end can't safely get to a high enough temperature.

Layers will be visible in FDM prints; though can be pretty smooth with small layer heights. A bit of sanding and filling (or painting) can make things look good (I recently printed some large "trumpet" ports for a loudspeaker design). Layer adhesion is good (assuming no problems with a print).

If you want (almost) no visible layer lines straight from the machine you need to start looking at resin printers; but they're generally more suited to aesthetic models rather than mechanical parts (as the resin tends to be very brittle once cured).

Clean up is generally related to the necessity of supports; if it can be printed with a flat surface on the build plate and no need for extra supporting material then almost no clean up is possible. Complex objects with overhangs will require supports; with associated sanding afterwards.

I have been using the free hobby license for fusion 360 now for about 18mth and I find it easy to navigate. If there is something I'm not sure on there is a very good support on there website and on YouTube kevin Kennedy is a good teacher at explaining how to use.
 
I have made all sorts I must have used around 15 spools they start to gather and empty ones com in for cable tidy chain, string,rope me I extended mine to accommodate sand paper role. One drawback from 3d printing is failed prints, I had one 11hrs into a 14hr print. Failed prints and waste is a part of the experience.
 
Today I printed a featherboard for my Record BS300 works great. I have also fitted adapters to all my power tools. So much stuff to make in the workshop. Really great bit of kit.View attachment 133380
What about a design change, making the main body separate from the feathers so you can fit a new set of feathers should they become damaged or wear out.
It would also mean the replacement bit would take less time and material to reproduce.

Possibly even make the holders to they can join together side by side to make a long featherboard for use on a table saw or such.
 
What about a design change, making the main body separate from the feathers so you can fit a new set of feathers should they become damaged or wear out.
It would also mean the replacement bit would take less time and material to reproduce.

Possibly even make the holders to they can join together side by side to make a long featherboard for use on a table saw or such.

That could easily be done and a valid point and surgestion
 
I have had a 3D printer for a few years now and wouldn't be without it. It has become an invaluable tool in my arsenal. Is it the be all and end all no, but then a hand plane is pretty useless if you want to drill a hole.
As a weekend metal/wood worker one advantage for me is I can design something in cad and print it up during the week, yes it can take a while but so what, I am working anyway and it just gets on with it.
I have made all sorts of useful items (I have never printed an ornament). I printed all the normal hose adaptors etc but it really comes into its own when you learn to draw (even TinkerCad is really useful). I have made a new control console for my milling machine, Indicator holders for the lathe and mill and prototyped components that are destined to be made in metal. It is a great way to visualise what you are making and make sure everything will fit before committing to a couple of days machining.
I have even printed stencils for my wifes cake making.
The thing with any tool is to learn to use it and understand what it can and (just as imprtantly) can't do.
In short it is a tool like any other. Will I be 3D printing the kitchen cupboards that are next on my project list, no definately not. Will I 3D print the router jig to make the fancy cut-outs my wife likes - you bet I will.

Here's an ornament I made for my
Granddaughter
 

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I have been using the free hobby license for fusion 360 now for about 18mth and I find it easy to navigate. If there is something I'm not sure on there is a very good support on there website and on YouTube kevin Kennedy is a good teacher at explaining how to use.
I've avoided Fusion due to the repeated bait and switch tactics used by Autodesk, and just generally have an aversion to cloud based software (for software where there isn't actually any requirement for it to be Internet connected). I'm likely in the minority, given the size of Fusion's user base, but I know some have moved to FreeCAD due to the constant removal of features.

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I've avoided Fusion due to the repeated bait and switch tactics used by Autodesk, and just generally have an aversion to cloud based software (for software where there isn't actually any requirement it to be Internet connected). I'm likely in the minority, given the size of Fusion's user base, but I know some have moved to FreeCAD due to the constant removal of features.

I've not been on it long came from tinkercad but it was limited, saw fusion and just stuck with it, so I've not missed any features so far, still I only use as a hobby.
 
I've not been on it long came from tinkercad but it was limited, saw fusion and just stuck with it, so I've not missed any features so far, still I only use as a hobby.
I think it's mostly been in the last couple of years they've moved lots of previously free features to paid tiers; after many people have been using said features for years. As it's cloud based you have no option to stay on an old version to keep those features; you're entirely at the mercy of Autodesk's whims.
 
I think it's mostly been in the last couple of years they've moved lots of previously free features to paid tiers; after many people have been using said features for years. As it's cloud based you have no option to stay on an old version to keep those features; you're entirely at the mercy of Autodesk's whims.

I can’t comment on the past feature, but one feature I would like to have is the prismatic for converting stl mesh to solid body it saves a lot of clean up.
 
I got more into 3D printing as I’ve not able to use workshop tools only do basic things so most of my equipment will have to be passed on its a shame as I just purchase a shaper origin last August for a few commissioned projects, never got to use it shame sorry to see it go but if you can’t physically use anything it time to pass on for someone else to put it to good use.
 
I got more into 3D printing as I’ve not able to use workshop tools only do basic things so most of my equipment will have to be passed on its a shame as I just purchase a shaper origin last August for a few commissioned projects, never got to use it shame sorry to see it go but if you can’t physically use anything it time to pass on for someone else to put it to good use.

some of my equipment has gone to good homes already which I’m pleased at I know the gentlemen who are taking good care of them.
 
Several years ago I received a substantial refund from HMRC. What should I use it for? A Robox 3D printer. I started using SketchUp but objected when they wanted money for it as I didn't think it worth it. Migrated to DesignSpark Mechanical and have used it ever since. Glad to see someone else (@HamsterJam ) uses it too. I've recently tried to use Fusion 360 as it has a 2D drawing facility which DSM lacks but really can't get on with it and can't see what everyone else is raving about.

I must admit its main 'woodworking' use is for dust extraction adaptors. However some other things do crop up like knobs for thumb nuts and screws where a steel nut or screw is embedded for durability. One of the more complex bits has been a flexible dust hose for the pillar drill (see pictures) and the bits to attach it to the pillar. Other things around the house also abound. It has so many uses only limited by your imagination and ability to transform it into
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something which can be printed.
 
I have a Flashforge Dreamer two head printer but have not made many two coloured parts. I usually have a different colour in each side to match what I am printing. I also have a spool of dissolvable support material which worked well for a couple of prints then I had problems and haven't used it since.
I have printed hose adaptors, custom enclosures for my electronic projects, tool holders etc. Currently I am testing some different filament out on some wire spools ready to try some 16+hr prints.
These big prints are for a dust hood for my saw when the riding knife and dust shield are removed along with a automatic two port blast gate.
I made a print a cover for the joint in the conservatory to replace the crappy piece of plywood which was there. I had to make it in two halves and glue the two sides together. It needed quite a lot of filling/sanding to make it look good. I should have used a finer print setting but each half took about twelve hours and I am not totally happy leaving it to run un supervised. The new material I am using now has been a pain as it has gummed up the printer and moved one of the nozzles which took a few hours to fix. So it does not always go smoothly.

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As to software I use Solidworks at work which is great. I use Fusion and Design spark mechanical at home which are both free although you are only allowed 10? editable models in fusion. I find both of these a bit harder to use than Solidworks and Inventor.
I suppose that is why Solidworks is £14,000 a licence and Inventor £9,000
 

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