3d printed 4-Way Clamp

[Bodgers]

Won't PLA be a bit brittle?
I know you say the nuts are only finger tight but that is still a lot of pressure.
I would have thought PETG, ABS or even better nylon would be preferable for this type of application.
Good Idea and design by the way. Have you put it on thingiverse?

Gerry

The original Veritas clamp is more of a small frame clamp (I think it is referred to as a frame clamp in the description on their site) so the use-case is probably not for boxes and larger items where you need to be applying a large amount of force.

The knurled hand bolts are a clue to that.

 

[ScaredyCat]

I picked up a 3D printer in February as a birthday pressie for myself. It's barely stopped printing. I've designed and made my own hose clips, star knobs, hose adaptors, baseplates for the katsu palm router, corner clamps, a square for checking the table saw blade, and working on a tenoning jig.

It's currently printing bench dogs...

The only downside is that sometimes it seems to take an age to print something, though for prototyping designs I use it in coarse mode with less infill which speeds things up.

For final objects I'm currently using 30% infill which adds strength.

For a workshop I can see this being really useful for printing incidentals like knobs , templates etc.
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[Spragnut]

One thing to keep in mind when looking at the cheaper 3d printers is they are often optimised for PLA and 0.4mm nozzles. As such the extruder may struggle with pushing filament through a 0.2mm nozzle, also the hotend may struggle to keep the temperature stable when pushing through more filament with larger nozzles.

I doubt any of the printers around the £150 mark would be able to print ABS/Nylon/PETG successfully and continually due to the higher temps and preferably a heated enclosure that are required.

You can upgrade the extruder and hotend on most printers, but this is a DIY, often a more expensive route to take, both in terms of money and time you'll invest.

Depending on application, i.e for gears etc, you may want to look at either the resin based machines, although material for these is more expensive and it is more messy/smelly, or a 3d printer that will cope with the higher temperatures PETG/ABS/Nylon require out the box.

3D printing is fun, being able to create a custom part in a few hours in your workshop is great, but you have to invest time if you want to get results that differ from 0.4mm nozzles and PLA..

I've successfully printed PETG and Nylon12/Carbon, on a CR10 with a Bowden E3D V6 hotend, in a warm workshop. But suffered de-lamination on quite a lot of prints due to temperature fluctuations within the work shop. I had to get it to a stable 20ish degrees before I could get successful results.

The clamps are great!! Once uploaded I will probably print myself a set or two!

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