1/4 inch router bit for mortises

[Croolis]

Hi, I have a quick question that I'm having trouble finding an answer for with a google. Want to cut a mortise with the green Bosch plunge router I just bought, which is a 1/4 inch router.

I have never used a hand router ( ).

First one I want to cut is in a 2x4 (or 47x95mm). I read that one should follow the 1/3 rule, and I want to do loose tenon, so I'm thinking I'll do 18mm slot so I can just cut a board for the loose tenon.

I understand how spiral flutes and up/down cutting works, but, as I have a 1/4 inch router, am I better off getting a straight edge non-spiral type that is wider at my desired 18mm, or should I use a smaller 1/4 inch fluted diameter bit and make multiple passes across the width. As a beginner, like. I mean, I mostly see upcut 2 flute spiral being suggested, but on 1/2 inch routers.

Cheers for replies.

 

[johnnyb]

I think it's a bit under powered for this task. It will tend to chew its own chips. I you wanna try then take it very slow and not to deep.

 

[Croolis]

I think it's a bit under powered for this task. It will tend to chew its own chips. I you wanna try then take it very slow and not to deep.

Are you're referring to the larger straight edge bit?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You could probably do it quicker with a chisel than a 1/4" router.

 

[Croolis]

You could probably do it quicker with a chisel than a 1/4" router.

Got a bad shoulder. Looking at doing it with router and using power tools in general as much as possible. Are we saying a 1/4 inch router is inappropriate for mortise joints?

 

[XTiffy]

In your circumstances I would use a small diameter router bit (6mm) and plunge cut in small steps. That would not overload a small router. Bigger bits would overload.

 

[johnnyb]

Try it...it will be a valuable lesson.

 

[Orraloon]

Another way is first drill out most of the waste then use the router to clean it out. A 1/4'' router is ok for a smallish mortise but the bigger they get the more it will struggle. I use the drill a lot for doing mortises and clean out with a chisel. The chisel work cleaning out is not hard like chopping a mortise from scratch. Mostly paring and the odd bit of tapping with the mallet. Not big swinging like on the prison rock gang.
Regards
John

 

[Croolis]

In your circumstances I would use a small diameter router bit (6mm) and plunge cut in small steps. That would not overload a small router. Bigger bits would overload.

I have a 6mm collet come with the router. And an 8mm collet too. So a spiral two flute upcut?

I see vids for making jigs. I'll get some practice on wider flat boards as well before I start doing this stuff. I might actually have a 6mm upcut bit already for my little CNC machine (which I have barely used and am still ignorant about).

Cheers for replies.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi, I have a quick question that I'm having trouble finding an answer for with a google. Want to cut a mortise with the green Bosch plunge router I just bought, which is a 1/4 inch router.

I have never used a hand router ( ).

First one I want to cut is in a 2x4 (or 47x95mm). I read that one should follow the 1/3 rule, and I want to do loose tenon, so I'm thinking I'll do 18mm slot so I can just cut a board for the loose tenon.

I understand how spiral flutes and up/down cutting works, but, as I have a 1/4 inch router, am I better off getting a straight edge non-spiral type that is wider at my desired 18mm, or should I use a smaller 1/4 inch fluted diameter bit and make multiple passes across the width. As a beginner, like. I mean, I mostly see upcut 2 flute spiral being suggested, but on 1/2 inch routers.

Cheers for replies.

I don't see a problem if you (1) use an upcut spiral bit, and (2) plunge a series of holes rather than expect the bit/router to rout sideways in one.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have a 6mm collet come with the router. And an 8mm collet too.

Be aware that most cutters sold here are 1/4" not 6mm.

 

[Croolis]

I don't see a problem if you (1) use an upcut spiral bit, and (2) plunge a series of holes rather than expect the bit/router to rout sideways in one.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Yes. I'm familiar with the idea of horizontal cuts but shallow to keep vibration down from my small CNC use. Because that's a little cheap thing, frame twisting and crazy noise and vibration is a concern.

If I do said series of plunged overlapping holes I can then use a sideways cut or two to clean up the sides of my slot.