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This is from a strictly amateur point of view. I have made the cabinets for my kitchen from MFC and I roughly sized parts with a hand-held CS and sawboard, because you need a lot of space to break down 8' x 4' sheets on a tablesaw (at least 16' for a rip cut). Also tablesaws without scoring...

I bought these from Screwfix. At the time I got 20 sets, so thet were only £5/set (gone up a little since then) and they look pretty much the same as the Bullers that Slim posted. They are rated to carry 45 kg when set on a 450 mm wide drawer, so plenty strong enough for a drawer full of tools.

The original reference is to the H. Rider Haggard novel SHE, which was itself shortened from She Who Must be Obeyed.

I've made drawer boxes in 12 mm ply using No. 10 biccies...worked just fine in ply and I don't see why it wouldn't work equally well in MDF.

Have you tried it with the timber laid flat? If you are cutting down through a 70 mm x 13 mm piece in edge there is a lot of scope for the timber to shift/ flex and for any slop in the slide bars to show. If you only have to cut down through 13 mm the timber will be better supported on the bed...

My God, don't let my wife see this! I have 6 doors to make for our kitchen and that has been "pending" for about a month.

Thanks for that link BB. Nice site too. I'e already had one abortive attempt at re-handling an old S&J tenon saw, so the tips from the saw kit plans will be very useful. I've also downloaded a couple of the other PDF plans that they very generously make available for free.

What about an acrylic floor varnish. That would be very hard wearing, though it's water-based so you'd have to strip the wax of first.

Thanks for the link, some pure gold in there. I quite fancy the little hobby lathe, though I'll probably never get round to making one.

I don't have any LN or Veritas planes either but I do have a few old Record and Stanley planes (No. 9 1/2, No.4, Record 05, No.6). I also have a couple of woodies, a jack, a 22" try plane and a skew bladed "shoulder" plane. Almost all bought off Ebay and probably didn't cost me more than £50 for...

You will need to put some packing between the underside of the bench top and the vice for mounting it so that the top edges of the vice end up below the bench surface. You can then add secondary wooden jaws to the vice to be flush with the bench top. I personally would keep the 9" vice, the 7"...

Silicon carbide abrasive powder.

My 40" rule is also 35 mm wide and my Ax rulestop fits just fine. They must have changed the spec.

Roy, just read this and laughed my socks off. I can just imagine your Dad's reaction. It reminds me of when my pal and I made black powder muskets out of electrical conduit and the gunpowder from penny bangers. The "musket balls" were sheep feed pellets which fitted the barrel perfectly. We made...

What is your "gold standard" to check the 600 mm rule against? I once bought an aluminium 1 m rule from B&Q...printed graduations rather than etched...what a load of rubbish. Not even a straight edge, so a dead loss. I bought an Axminster 1 m rule (actually 40") which I have checked against my...

Have they stopped doing the Big Bob? I didn't see it on their website and no downloadable instructions either.

I hate to ask the obvious, but are you sure you have the right size blade?

The laminated back in contrasting woods make you chair a real stand out piece...well done! What do you have in mind for the seat upholstry?

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

That's a useful tip Dan. I've made a few frame and panel doors out of MDF, 18 mm frames with 6 mm plain panel and I have used a 1/4" straight bit for all the grooves. I have used loose tenons, made from offcuts of the panel material to join the frames. This works well but you need to run rail...