Search results

Glad to see that you were able to put it to good use. Looks like a highly functional fence (although, I agree with Chems in that you should have some form of guard, if only to protect you from projectiles...) You have replaced the Bristol levers though - where did you get the knobs from?

I've had the 401e for over a year now and it's a great machine. Capable of tensioning a wide blade and cutting thin veneers from deep sections of timber. I only really bought it because it was offered to me very cheap. One thing you'll need to be aware of is that, with their larger motors and...

No experience of the saw but I used Tooled-Up once about five-years ago and have never used them again. I only ordered a Bosch sander. It was in stock yet, it took them a week to dispatch it. There was no glitch in the system, either; this seemed to be the way in which they operate... :-P Have...

I had some similar problems with English beech (2in and 3in thick, but it was the thickest stuff that caused the most grief). The boards were all air-dried and, despite a period of acclimatisation (only a few weeks - it was for a workbench, after all), it continued to split and check...

Try not to confuse English oak with European - although, some yards now seem to make that very difficult for us, labelling European stocks as if it were locally-grown... :-P Most native species' have maintained the same prices for the past three-years. However, all imported timbers (including...

If it is the capacitor then, they're dead easy to replace. They're cheap to buy and you should be able to find a suitable replacement from Maplins or similar. No need to purchase direct from the manufacturer and there are only a couple of wires to connect, if I recall correctly. Even a...

You may well be right about the age of your machine though, if it's blue rather than green then, regardless of the exact model number, I'd be inclined to think that these switches should be there for compliance with the EU regulations. It's tricky to explain without a photo... And, I can't find...

Sometimes, you may not know or fully appreciate the difference until you've experienced cutting with a decent blade... You shouldn't have to spend quite as much as £50, though. Have you come across the Freud range? Reasonable prices and they're excellent for the money. Very quiet running (some...

Does it do this when set up as both and planer and as a thicknesser? I think these machines have a safety interlock switch fitted near the area where the dust hood pivots. It may be that this has moved over time and simply needs readjusting. It's a feature that essentially means the machine...

Still haven't decided what to do with the ladder situation as I still fear that a permanently-fixed solution would consume too much space in the centre. It may well be that I buy or build a simple stepladder and leave that for the future occupants... After offloading the 6ft-long shelving unit...

I'm still not sure how your hand would come in to contact with a spinning cutter. After all, this is a power tool like any other... Therefore, you should always keep both hands on the tool (that's what the handles are for! ;-)). If you do that then, you have full control and neither hand should...

Or, you could make a very simple jig - cut out a series of recesses (one for each size of Domino), deep enough so that you can drop a Domino in place and then take a few shavings off the top. You want it to be a fairly snug fit lengthways and you could add finger holes either side for easy...

I suppose the best compromise might be a trigger/'dead-man's' switch which can be locked on and off, as you do find on a belt sander and many other power tools (sanders, jigsaws, etc.). That way, it's also easy to reach. Not that the other option impossible. I don't personally find the handles...

And over 73,000 hits, at the time of posting this - it must have appeared in one of the newspapers, recently, or something... :P He also does mention the wear around the neckline in his description. Made me smile. :-)

Like some of the others, here, I always pre-finish the inside surfaces of all components before assembly, whenever it's practical. Cascamite has many advantages over PVA but, once it's cured, it's far more hazardous; in the sense that the residue becomes harder than glass! It'll blunt your...

I'll second Pete's recommendation for the Makita 3612C. I've had one of these for six-years now and I've not once considered replacing it (even if it is 110v). The electronic brake is the best I've seen - stops and starts with a slight kick (as many of the larger routers do) but then, from the...

You may already know this but, you can view all the DeWalt radial arm saw manuals, here, at Miles Tools' website. There are a couple for the 125 but I cannot see the 110 listed? You could try contacting Miles Tools directly, to see whether they have any un-listed parts of if they would know how...

If it's an induction motor then, I wonder whether the fan casing is in contact with the fan on the back of the motor? It is very easy to accidentally nudge then and it makes one heck of a din the first time you switch on! Done it myself, a few times... ;-)

Another vote for the Clifton blades. Excellent edge retention qualities and the extra thickness over your original blade will make a HUGE difference, even if you do have to file the mouth a bit. Matthew's Quangsheng irons aren't bad, either. I've only used one in a block plane, which doesn't...

They certainly have their uses - just as long as you don't expect them to straighten a long edge as easily as you would with a floor-standing surface planer or jointer! ;-) I've mostly used mine for cleaning up edges I've already cut straight with a circular (I don't yet have a plunge saw)...