saw blades

[marcros]

I have been reading with great interest suggestions on new table saws and accounts that people have given on secondhand purchases.

A recurring theme seems to be to change the standard blade that comes with the saw, particularly on the cheaper saws.

My question is... what are the signs that you have a poor blade? As a beginner, i would have nothing to compare it to, so would risk a £50 gamble for a "decent" blade when what i have may be ok.

Thanks
Mark

 

[OPJ]

Sometimes, you may not know or fully appreciate the difference until you've experienced cutting with a decent blade...

You shouldn't have to spend quite as much as £50, though. Have you come across the Freud range? Reasonable prices and they're excellent for the money. Very quiet running (some cheaper blades whistle) and a smooth performance. They're generally available from a number of sources, including Toolstation and several sellers on eBay. For ripping solid timber, you'll want something with around 20t. MDF and sheet materials will demand a finer finish from a blade with at least 40t, generally speaking.

If you're experiencing a rough or burnt finish and the blade sounds like it's struggling to cut even a softwood then, it may be time for a change. Especially if the teeth feel sharp.

 

[jimi43]

I would second the Freud Pro range...found one on FleaBay...don't think it was more than a tenner.

I have one on all my saws and they are fantastic value. I even put one on my cheap B&Q special sliding mitre saw and it transformed it. Still a cr*p fence etc...but for what I use it cuts smoothly and accurately enough for me.

The one on my table saw has done yards of English oak for my bench, some engineered oak flooring and other hardwoods. I try to keep chipboard and MDF away from it though...very abrasive on blades. Save your original blade for that stuff.

Jim

 

[Digit]

Yep! Wot they said!

Roy.

 

[9fingers]

I'm afreud they are correct!

Bob