Don’t go with a top thicker than 18mm if you want to use rail clamps - they won’t make it through the dog holes otherwise. 👍
edit - just seen @disinterior post saying the same! 👍
The Benchdogs rail square is tapped to accept ‘MFT dogs’ on 96mm centres, so you can lock the square onto an MFT top instead of using rail dogs or tall bench dogs for the rail to bear against. That’s something that couldn’t be used if the OP went for 100mm spacing. Note that you could also get...
I’ve had a 16g Silverline that cost me £23 in 2014 and hasn’t missed a beat. I’ve just bought an 18g Silverline to keep it company, and again, really can’t fault it, for the money. Basic, of course at that price, but perfectly functional.
I started out just using a blowtorch, but found it very hit & miss, so switched to the electric heater that Mike sells and the difference is chalk & cheese. So much easier to get a consistent brand with a heater. Recommended. 👍
Mike at outpostworkshop.co.uk has made all of mine; lovely work, great service, electric heaters available which work *very* well. Not cheap, but very good. 👍
You’ve already massively undersold yourself by passing the free wood onto the customers at cost, friends or not. One thing I always tried to do early on if I was stuck in pricing, was to have a stab at figuring out what it would cost me to have the components made, so that all I had to do was...
In my experience the Makita rails are a lot less grippy than the Festool, so I’d always clamp over that length, personally. As others have said above there are lots of variables on a long straight cut like this, and you‘ll probably need to work your way through them all before you find the issue...
Hi Nel, and thank you. You’ll have had the welcome massages in Patreon and my apologies if it isn’t clear, but you can always message me directly on that platform for a faster response.
2450 x 600 isn’t huge, but if you’re handling it in your own it will certainly be a bit unwieldy; don’t know...
How old is it? My old CTL22 did the same exact thing - just stopped, basically - and it turned out to be motor brushes; they were easy enough to get at and cheap to replace. FYI Festool motors typically have brushes that fail before they wear down completely to prevent damage to the commutator...
I don’t disagree Doug, but then I don’t think rail squares are aimed at folks with an MFT - I might have done a video about that as well - they’re more aimed at guys doing site work. Of course, if you have a rail you can dedicate a square to, then it becomes much more useful in a workshop. 👍
Well, the £110 (inc VAT) is the one-trick pony - the more costly versions have other tricks up their sleeves - but I’ve shown how easy it is to make a one-trick pony equivalent from a piece of board and a handful,of spare parts, if that’s all you need. 🤷♂️👍
Yes it does. I have a sub base on my T11 which is why it looks a little lumpy, but the base of the Festool guide lines up with the standard base of the T11. Standard rails fit right in - maybe a teensy bit tight when all the way home, but nothing forced. Rods are 8mm dia. 115mm between the...
They are very handy, and dead accurate - definitely a must-have tracksaw accessory IMHO. One other thing for the OP to consider (I’m assuming they don’t have a router table from the question) would be a guiderail mounted router - the adapters are pretty cheap, and you get a good straight cut. 👍
Just to clarify, it’s £170 (inc vat) for the mini jig & starter set (bit & connectors) and just to keep things on topic I have a pocket-hole jig that‘s priced around there, too. Back to the Peanut, it depends on wether you want a self-clamping invisible connector or not; if you don’t you don’t...