Side Sharpening and the Sharp Skate Honing Jig

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custard

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I picked up a Sharp Skate honing jig last week and had the chance to use it over the weekend, honing a range of blades with a range of steels. A Veritas skew rebate plane A2 iron, a cambered 2 3/8" Karl Holtey S53 iron, a cambered 2 3/8" Stanley Sweetheart iron, a pair of Blue Spruce A2 skew chisels, a 1" Bristol Design (O1?) paring chisel, and a vintage Marples 3/8" mortice chisel. These were honed using a variety of Shapton stones, diamond stones, and the Scary Sharp system.

I normally either freehand hone, or use either Veritas honing jigs (with both straight and cambered rolelrs) or the small Richard Kell jig for straight chisels under 1" wide.

I won't repeat Derek Cohen's earlier review

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReview ... Skate.html

except to make the following points,

1. I think I got a later version of the jig than Derek tested, it now includes a docking station that allows very fast and accurate setting of the angles in whole degree increments from 45 down. I measured the blade extension with digital calipers at both ends of the blade and the Sharp Skate seemed to be delivering slightly better accuracy and repeatability than the Veritas jig's dedicated angle setting tool but without the dial-in facility for micro bevel adjustment. I didn't check the accuracy of the skew setting, it's easier and faster on the Sharp Skate, but only with a few pre-set angles, the Veritas jig is more versatile in terms of range of angles.

2. The Sharp Skate makes it easier to use more or all of the stone's surface. Although this is good I'm not sure it's useful. I flatten the Shaptons pretty much after every use, and Scary Sharp and Diamond stones don't need flattening. So the only circumstances where this might be a practical advantage would be for a waterstone user who has the discipline to methodically use the Sharp Skate over the stone's entire surface, but lacks the discipline/equipment to regularly flatten the waterstone.

3. It cambers far better than I was expecting, every bit as good as the Veritas with the cambered roller and way better than I can do freehand (in fact it's my ineptitude with freehand cambering that mainly makes me use a honing jig).

4. As Derek observed, it's a lovely jig to use. Like the small Kell jig the honing action is smooth and refined, I could use it for much longer than the Vertas without cutting off the circulation to my fingers! The serrations on the clamping arm are also a great design improvement over the Veritas, blades show no tendency to swing out of square, and the large clamping arm knob makes it easy to fasten the blade firmly, again a real improvement over the Veritas. For children or a woodworker with the first signs of arthritis, these might be decisive advantages.

5. It's a bit pricey, but not that far removed from a fully loaded Veritas.

6. But the Sharp Skate has, for me at least, one serious shortcoming. It's extremely difficult and time consuming to clean the wheels when switching abrasive grades, so grit carry over is likely to be a problem. Freehand honing just requires wiping the blade and your fingers, the Veritas has one simple roller to clean, the Kell guide two easily accessible wheels. But the Sharp Skate requires patient dabbing at nine tiny and semi-hidden wheels, and that's about eight more than my patience can tolerate!

7. I haven't used the freshly honed tools enough to have formed an opinion about the benefits of side sharpening versus traditional "for-and-aft" honing, but in the limited experience over the weekend I couldn't honestly see a difference one way or the other.
 
$170 it seems. Plus extras I expect. What would that be by the time you get one in the UK, £100?

Sharpskate not for a cheapskate! Gadget madness.
 
Thanks for the interesting review Custard.

I think you mean Derek Cohan - Jacob is the one who never has a good word about anything new and shiny especially if it's from over the Pond or Japanese? :D

Rod
 
Harbo":13jgfwlq said:
Thanks for the interesting review Custard.

I think you mean Derek Cohan - Jacob is the one who never has a good word about anything new and shiny especially if it's from over the Pond or Japanese? :D

Rod

My error, thanks for pointing that out, I've edited the original post accordingly.
 
custard":2kzt80vl said:
3. It cambers far better than I was expecting, every bit as good as the Veritas with the cambered roller and way better than I can do freehand (in fact it's my ineptitude with freehand cambering that mainly makes me use a honing jig).


Hi Custard,

Thanks for the review.

I'm still struggling to see how this can produce a camber, unless it has a really fine skew setting +/-.

I can't see that describing an arc with it is going to produce anything more than a curved scratch pattern on a straight bevel.
 
matthewwh":1tklsja7 said:
custard":1tklsja7 said:
3. It cambers far better than I was expecting, every bit as good as the Veritas with the cambered roller and way better than I can do freehand (in fact it's my ineptitude with freehand cambering that mainly makes me use a honing jig).


Hi Custard,

Thanks for the review.

I'm still struggling to see how this can produce a camber, unless it has a really fine skew setting +/-.

I can't see that describing an arc with it is going to produce anything more than a curved scratch pattern on a straight bevel.
I'm with Matthew here...seems to be a nice piece of kit, albeit a bit spendy :shock: but I can't see how it'll produce any sort of significant camber. I'd worry if any of my blades were cambered...which they're not :wink: - Rob
 
woodbloke":16xmvcke said:
matthewwh":16xmvcke said:
custard":16xmvcke said:
3. It cambers far better than I was expecting, every bit as good as the Veritas with the cambered roller and way better than I can do freehand (in fact it's my ineptitude with freehand cambering that mainly makes me use a honing jig).


Hi Custard,

Thanks for the review.

I'm still struggling to see how this can produce a camber, unless it has a really fine skew setting +/-.

I can't see that describing an arc with it is going to produce anything more than a curved scratch pattern on a straight bevel.
I'm with Matthew here...seems to be a nice piece of kit, albeit a bit spendy :shock: but I can't see how it'll produce any sort of significant camber. I'd worry if any of my blades were cambered...which they're not :wink: - Rob



I was with you in terms of doubting the Sharp Skate's cambering ability.

I camber most of my plane irons, but couldn't see how this jig could possibly follow the camber curve...yet it does.

Maybe there's some give in the wheels or flex in the axles, however selectively applying pressure at either end delivers a uniform burr all around the edge, and then an equally uniform micro bevel. Although to be honest I haven't tried honing the iron I use in a LN bevel up jack, which is cambered to a 9" radius as per the Derek Cohen method, nor the iron from my scrub plane which is even more heavily cambered. So I can't vouch that it would deliver a more extreme camber.

But with straight edged blades, pressing equally in the centre, as on the skew rebate plane iron (which isn't cambered) and the 1" paring chisel, gave a straight and accurate edge.

As jigs go it's very nice, being exceptionally quick to set up (way faster and less fiddly than the Veritas) and very smooth in use. The two biggest problems I found were cleaning all nine wheels between stones and setting intermediate skew angles. Unfortunately the cleaning problem's likely to be a deal breaker for me unless I can find a short cut.
 
As I understand it, it's also very difficult to effectivly clamp very small or narrow blades like a 3mm dovetail chisel - Rob
 
woodbloke":3j8hq6cp said:
As I understand it, it's also very difficult to effectivly clamp very small or narrow blades like a 3mm dovetail chisel - Rob

I've not actually tried a chisel smaller than 3/8" but I suspect you may be right. In fact when it comes to exceptionally narrow chisels I've had mixed success with all the jigs I've tried, I've a few "micro chisels" that I use for cleaning out the grooves for inlay and stringing, and in the absence of anything better I tend to clamp them in a vice at the honing angle and give them a quick swipe with the stone held horizontally.

Actually you raise a good point, really small edges can be a problem full stop. At least with micro chisels sharpening isn't a daily event, but I really struggle with marking out knives where, because they run against a steel rule, I sometimes need to sharpen them multiple times in a day. My favourite layout knife was made for me by Bristol Design tools, it's the iron from an old infill plane that was lazer cut to an appropriate size with chunky rosewood scales rivetted on. It's great to hold, even for long periods, but it's the devil to hone and defeats every jig I've ever encountered. The other layout knives I use are the thick and thin Ron Hock blades without handles, they're much easier to hone either freehand or in a jig, but the lack of handles mean that unless you pay close attention they have a tendency to twist in use.
 
Jacob":35m4lhov said:
It's the rubbish design I object to wherever it comes from.
Sharp skate is rubbish design - clever but stupid and over engineered
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi1uOISQ ... re=related is inspired brilliant design - highly effective and easily made.
It's a culture clash one way or another.

Looks like a nice idea, Jacob, provided of course you want a camber on all your blades. Wouldn't work for me given that I don't want a camber on any of them.

As for contamination of the wheels, can't you just run it under the tap? Mind you, I am lucky enough to have a sink in the workshop with running hot and cold and the sharpening station beside it.

At least I have now found a use for my small Kell jig which I was going to put on ebay. My small Japanese chamfer plane has a blade only about 1 1/2 ins. long and is difficult to sharpen well, but despite the sides not being parallel, the Kell coped well with it . It is still awkward to use because it doesn't provide a convenient grip but nothing else seems to be available to cope with a blade that small.

Jim
 
matthewwh":2gh8rs2n said:
Rob & Jim,

I'm properly confused now, how on earth do you plane anything flat without cambers?
I've never had any difficulty with getting stuff flat Matt (that rhymes...he was a poet and didn't know it :lol: ) but I do use a white grinding wheel to just take off the sharp corners of the blade and then smooth them off a bit more on the 3M films. I noticed also that when Pete Sefton was honing his Cliffi blade (using a Veritas MkII) at his recent bash, he weren't camberising his blade either - Rob
 
I really do not understand how it is possible to avoid tracks without cambering a smoother's blade ... ?

Creating a camber for a smoother on the Sharp Skate is very simple. All one does is place pressure on one cormner, then the other, as you hone ... as with all methods. In the case of the SS, you press down and move the guide either away or towards one self. It is exactly the same method I use when freehand side sharpening.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
I really do not understand how it is possible to avoid tracks without cambering a smoother's blade ... ? Derek
Derek, I used to sharpen my all my irons with a straight edge, even smoothing plane irons. I did so for more than twenty or so years if I recall it right. Tracking is avoided by just rounding off the corners a bit. I still round off the corners as I've always done, but nowadays I also include a bit of a convex curve across the business end too-- actually, this is primarily a consequence of the fact that most bench stones are a bit dished anyway, ha, ha, so it's easier just to go with the flow so to speak. Slainte.
 
I really do not understand how it is possible to avoid tracks without cambering a smoother's blade ... ?

Derek

I don't have a problem with it Derek...

002small-4.jpg


003small-3.jpg


...straight off the Veritas LA BU smoother. If there are any tracks...(which there weren't) a coupla quick passes with a card scraper soon sorts it. Interestingly, JK as far as I'm aware, never used a camberised blade and he seemed to manage OK as do the Japanese with their kana... and they do stuff which is good as well - Rob
 
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