Cable entry in cupboard door - help please

[HamsterJam]

Hi,

I have been asked to cut hole/slot in the top of a cupboard door to allow cables to pass through.
From time to time, some of the equipment stored in the cupboard needs to be lifted out onto the worktop above then the cupboard closed again, but here’s the rub - it has to be done without disconnecting any cables.
Obvious solution (and as the customer suggests) is a slot in the top of the door but IMHO an open hole will look a bit naff.
Ideally I’d like to fit a cable brush plate but I can’t find one with an open side that will allow the cables to be passed through without disconnection.
I’m presently considering cutting a slot into the side of a single gang brush plate to allow the wires to be slotted in but concerned about finishing the cut edges.
Has anyone solved a similar problem or got any suggestions please?

 

[robgul]

Could you cut a brush plate in half across the width and mount it with its open edge at the top of the cupboard door (concealing a slot in the door) ? - if it was in the corner at the top of the hinge side of the door it wouldn't look too bad. Fettling the edges of the cut plate shouldn't be too difficult.

 

[HamsterJam]

Could you cut a brush plate in half across the width and mount it with its open edge at the top of the cupboard door (concealing a slot in the door) ? - if it was in the corner at the top of the hinge side of the door it wouldn't look too bad. Fettling the edges of the cut plate shouldn't be too difficult.

Thanks Rob - that’s sort of my current plan A

 

[Spectric]

You need some edging,

https://hilltop-products.co.uk/rayr...jBzkHxKbJ_taYiWL_UNX-uini8W0lPeuUmlxyA_yiQuqX

https://www.vital-parts.co.uk/u-cha...MIlLyB49GdigMVuGVBAh1rwBcbEAAYASAAEgJwe_D_BwE

https://sealextrusions.com/products/tsec1a-black-solid-epdm

 

[Tris]

Draught excluder brush? Depends on the type of door but you could probably rout a slot to recess a short length in

 

[MikeH]

How about, instead of a permanemt slot, a small (tiny) hinged door that can be dropped open when needed and closed up when not needed. With the door and hinged slot closed it may not be as obvious to the eye.

 

[HamsterJam]

Thanks guys - think kitchen cupboard door (although it’s not actually installed in a kitchen). I’m there now so can provide a photo. It’s the one marked.

@Spectric - not sure a profile strip will cope with the 19mm thickness of the door but it might be an option.

@Tris - thanks, considering that.

 

[scholar]

Can’t the cable come out underneath the door, so you would only need a notch in the cupboard base? Maybe also relieve the back edge of the door, but this would retain the neat look of the door.

Might need a longer cable, possibly.

Cheers

 

[Dalboy]

Where is the nearest socket, as doing what they want will always look like a bodge. If the socket is above the cupboard can you not run a small extension down through a small hole in the worktop and have the appliances in the cupboard, the only time the cupboard is open is when the appliance is being used.
Personally, I would not any appliances plugged in all the time especially when they are out of sight.

 

[HamsterJam]

Where is the nearest socket, as doing what they want will always look like a bodge. If the socket is above the cupboard can you not run a small extension down through a small hole in the worktop and have the appliances in the cupboard, the only time the cupboard is open is when the appliance is being used.
Personally, I would not any appliances plugged in all the time especially when they are out of sight.

Sockets are fitted inside the cupboard (mains and comms).
Apparently some of the gear needs to be on 24/7/365. The rest is powered down but left plugged in to allow a speedy deployment when required.

It is warm in the cupboard despite being winter - I’ll be addressing ventilation too.

 

[HamsterJam]

Can’t the cable come out underneath the door, so you would only need a notch in the cupboard base? Maybe also relieve the back edge of the door, but this would retain the neat look of the door.

Might need a longer cable, possibly.

Cheers

This is a good shout, thank-you @scholar. There is a small bundle of cables (estimate approx 6) but I will ask whether extending them is a possibility. It’s potentially the neatest solution.

 

[Jake]

If the cables can come out the centre, a semicircular cut centred on the door gap (so a quarter circle from the top meeting edge of each) might be quite tidy looking.

Routing a groove to the underneath of the worktop might be another way around.

 

[niall Y]

How about one of those 80mm cable entry grommets, or outlets that, you have on desks. Available in different colours. Could even be fitted at the back of the worktop. I believe a standard 3 pin plug will fit through them.

EDIT,
Ooops! just read the " without disconnecting " bit. One might still be able to cut one of these down to 1/2, 3/4 size and fit to top of door, without it looking too much like a "pigs ear"

 

[Nail]

How about one of those 80mm cable entry grommets, or outlets that, you have on desks. Available in different colours. Could even be fitted at the back of the worktop. I believe a standard 3 pin plug will fit through them.

The problem with that is feeding it through when in use / not in use and keeping it out of sight all without unplugging.

I’m guessing this is cctv or similar?

 

[throbscottle]

What about cutting the hinge-side upper corner off the door, with a matching cutout in the frame behind it, and a retaining strap on the back of the door or metal loop on the edge to stop the wires dropping down when the cupboard is opened. Seems it would be fairly well obscured by the cupboard end and the worktop so fairly tidy. Finish as desired.

 

[Cabinetman]

Thinking outside the box/cupboard.
Depends what the equipment is and how much power it draws, I’m thinking of it plugged into one of those mains emergency batteries which can itself be plugged in inside the cupboard, when needed the equipment and the unplugged battery are brought out.
We have one of the batteries and run a fridge in the boot of the car on long journeys.
Ian

 

[TomGW]

"From time to time, some of the equipment stored in the cupboard needs to be lifted out onto the worktop above then the cupboard closed again, but here’s the rub - it has to be done without disconnecting any cables."

Could you slice the top off the door, say 50mm, and finish the edges, then fix the top part as a removable panel held in place with locating pegs and magnets? I think this would look a lot better than a hole in the door.

 

[Richard_C]

Why does the door need to be closed when the equipment is out? If it's simply to avoid it sticking out and being in the way, you could fit lift off hinges or similar and leave the door intact

 

[pip1954]

Hi i don't understand how you would have something plugged in the cupboard and bring it out with out unpluging it with the wire through a hole ,if the plug is in the cupboard surely the wire at somepoint be in the way of the door when you shut the door maybe i am being thick.
would be a good trick to see.
Phil

 

[Richard_C]

Why does the door need to be closed when the kit is out? If it's just to stop it sticking out and being in the way maybe leavie it intact and fit detachable lift off hinges.