Workshop Cladding

[ike]

OSB is not for you if you want the smooth finish for sure. I think it looks OK with several coats of emulsion (but that's just me). A drywall saw - 1/100th of the mess and dust, and about 100 times quicker! :wink:

cheers,

Ike

 

[OPJ]

Does anyone have experience of different sound insulation properties of plasterboard / ply / OSB / chipboard? I suspect that plasterboard is the most dense of these, so was thinking of sheeting my space with plasterboard for sound properties, then ply or OSB on top of that, for mechanical fixing.

If you wanted to use plasterboard and improve sound insulations further, you could add a second layer of plasterboard to the existing layer and overlap them halfway in a "brickwork" fashion, so that the joins of the first layer are well hidden. Not honestly sure if this would make a considerable difference or not, but this is a method used with fire-rated stud partitions.

 

[ByronBlack]

Thanks again to everyone for your input and giving me the pro's and con's of various materials.

In conversation with SWMBO who is also now a user of the workshop we have decided to go with a decent fire retardent plasterboard. This is because it's one of the cheaper option, will be the easiest to get a nice white finish, which is important as we have decided against windows (other than whats in the doors) and we like the safety feature of the fire retardant qualities, which in our case is relatively important as we have timber fences and a number of large trees relatively close on the neighbours side. In event of a fire, it would be nice to know it would be contained to a degree for a bit longer.

I've started the insulation process today, whilest looking at wickes for the plasterboard, I saw there slab insulation and it came in quite a lot cheaper than the equivelent stuff from 'seconds and co' so I managed to go down today and pick up a few packs and have started the installation, I'm only half-way done and it already feels better, it's a lot less echoy as well which is nice.

So, again, thanks for all the info! Much appreciated.

 

[Adam]

Thanks again to everyone for your input and giving me the pro's and con's of various materials.

In conversation with SWMBO who is also now a user of the workshop we have decided to go with a decent fire retardent plasterboard. This is because it's one of the cheaper option, will be the easiest to get a nice white finish, which is important as we have decided against windows (other than whats in the doors) and we like the safety feature of the fire retardant qualities, which in our case is relatively important as we have timber fences and a number of large trees relatively close on the neighbours side. In event of a fire, it would be nice to know it would be contained to a degree for a bit longer.

I've started the insulation process today, whilest looking at wickes for the plasterboard, I saw there slab insulation and it came in quite a lot cheaper than the equivelent stuff from 'seconds and co' so I managed to go down today and pick up a few packs and have started the installation, I'm only half-way done and it already feels better, it's a lot less echoy as well which is nice.

So, again, thanks for all the info! Much appreciated.

Whatever you do, don't let your insulation touch your electrical wires (if its polystyrene - you can get get ion migration from cables to polystyrene.) I guess it's most umlikely you;ve chosen polystyrene though if you are trying to use fire retardent materials in your constrution.


Adam

 

[Shultzy]

Byron, don't forget to mark the position of the studding on the plasterboard. A good way would be to put a screw with brass cup at the top and bottom of the studs on the centreline.

 

[J D Architectural Joinery]

Thanks again to everyone for your input and giving me the pro's and con's of various materials.

In conversation with SWMBO who is also now a user of the workshop we have decided to go with a decent fire retardent plasterboard. This is because it's one of the cheaper option, will be the easiest to get a nice white finish, which is important as we have decided against windows (other than whats in the doors) and we like the safety feature of the fire retardant qualities, which in our case is relatively important as we have timber fences and a number of large trees relatively close on the neighbours side. In event of a fire, it would be nice to know it would be contained to a degree for a bit longer.

I've started the insulation process today, whilest looking at wickes for the plasterboard, I saw there slab insulation and it came in quite a lot cheaper than the equivelent stuff from 'seconds and co' so I managed to go down today and pick up a few packs and have started the installation, I'm only half-way done and it already feels better, it's a lot less echoy as well which is nice.

So, again, thanks for all the info! Much appreciated.

2 layers of 12mm fireline or equivelant (the pink stuff) with staggered joints, with Rocksill insulation will give you approx 1hr rating for fire.

 

[OLD]

I used the dry wall system see my www (5 interior)
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plasterboard-125mm/Tapered-Edge-Plasterboard/invt/220210
12.5 is best and fire proof .Use drywall screw driver fitting it sets the screw just right, self adhesive scrim tape, filler applied with wide scraper first then side of float for final.Corner trowel best but can be done with float, palm sander to finish 120 grit.