Workbench Drawers for the Paul Sellers style workbench

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another update, part 1 of 2

I left the drawer for glue up overnight, I thought there would be slight gaps but they appear to have dissapeared with the PVA filling it in, happy with how it's turned out, now it's just a matter of leaving it for a few days, if it moves then more planing will be needed, the first drawer shrunk slightly so I'm leaving it as a tight fit. Then I can get onto finishing it properly, the only mistake was getting the back piece the wrong way around, I'm amazed I didn't notice this, but luckily it's not too important in this case.
 

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part 2 of 2,

more about the process, the photos show that I created a mark with the mortise gauge on the sides, this is for three reasons 1. it guarantees you won't cut the groove on the wrong side 2. it helps prevent tear out on the top surface and 3. if the plough plane does move slightly which can happen sometimes, you will easily be able to see it.

The other photos show more details,

next stage will be cutting and fitting the plywood base, then final finishing, I can then start thinking about the handles which at this point I'm unsure about, I like the idea of using oak to match the rails.
 

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Impeccable work, your skill level is rocketing and it's amazing that you've taught yourself to this level. I'm full of admiration Tyreman, figuring out drawer work as good as this and on your own is a massive accomplishment. It took a lot of very skilled instructors to beat this stuff into me and I'm not convinced I could have got as far as you have without their help!

The only thing I'd suggest is that when a drawer gets to be about 600mm or so wide (a bit less if it's heavily loaded) it's customary to stick in a muntin. Above about 800 or 900mm and I'll go for two muntins with the centre section a bit wider than the two outside sections. The other thing I try and do is run the grain pattern of the drawer bottom right across the muntins in an unbroken sweep. Once you start including muntins it really pays to use the flush fitting style drawer slip rather than the simpler quarter round style slips.

Personally I'll normally include muntins from about 500mm wide just because they look so great!

Shaker-Cab-Drawers-3.jpg
 

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custard":3cvqxnoj said:
Impeccable work, your skill level is rocketing and it's amazing that you've taught yourself to this level. I'm full of admiration Tyreman, figuring out drawer work as good as this and on your own is a massive accomplishment. It took a lot of very skilled instructors to beat this stuff into me and I'm not convinced I could have got as far as you have without their help!

The only thing I'd suggest is that when a drawer gets to be about 600mm or so wide (a bit less if it's heavily loaded) it's customary to stick in a muntin. Above about 800 or 900mm and I'll go for two muntins with the centre section a bit wider than the two outside sections. The other thing I try and do is run the grain pattern of the drawer bottom right across the muntins in an unbroken sweep. Once you start including muntins it really pays to use the flush fitting style drawer slip rather than the simpler quarter round style slips.

Personally I'll normally include muntins from about 500mm wide just because they look so great!


To be honest I was thinking of making the proper full on drawer (slips and all) at the beggining of this but then changed my mind last minute, my thinking is I wanted something slightly less intimidating as a first drawer project, but if this were a furniture piece or something higher end then I'd go for it. The internal width of the drawers measures 520mm, I do agree that it looks better with the muntins and slips, and it adds a touch of extra quality as well that puts it into the higher end bracket. I will try and tackle that in a future project hopefully, thanks for all the encouragement Custard! p.s that drawer looks amazing
 
here's a few more build details,

I measured the width and depth carefully with a tape measure, and marked out on the plywood.

I make a double knifewall on the plywood on both sides all the way around to prevent tearout, then cut it in between the two knifewalls with a crosscut hardpoint saw, then plane it to the lines, and finally took the arris off the edges, using a no 5 1/2 plane.

To attach the plywood base the the frame I pre-drilled part way into the pine through the ply, then countersunk, they are 1 inch screws, then planed a piece that was roughtly 6 x 12 mm and cut them into blocks, they are rub jointed onto the back using titebond animal hide glue, this prevents the plywood from rattling around.

tomorrow I can begin the finishing process

more pictures have been added.
 

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I completed finishing the second drawer earlier today, it was sanded to 240grit, finished with de-waxed shellac then sanded again lightly, I then waxed it with my home made turpentine/beeswax mix, everywhere except the insides.

I will leave it without handles for a while, they easily open from a light nudge underneath,

The extra storage will prove useful, I've already put some tools in there, and they hold a surprising amount of weight.

pics have been added

for the time being I'm going to concentrate on something else, there's just too many other things I want to build.
 

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Hallow m8,
I dream of doing work like this...its motivates me no end!
great work and great to learn from it.
Bri
 

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