Workbench Build

[Fitzroy]

Once all the tops were glued up things got a little too snug and no amount of malleting could seat them. So the tops had to come off, and some fanangling of the joints ensued. With each top weighing 40kg and the legs at 7kg (ish) it’s bloody exhausting taking it apart, adjusting, and test fitting again. But after a little while all the joints seemed good and after rebuilding the frame the tops slid on lovely.

If I were to redesign the bench I’d not have the legs as through mortises, but hey ho! I cut one down and planed it flush to see how hard this was. Thankfully the sycamore is easy to work and it looks like it will be ok.

I also pondered all the remaining jobs and think I have a plan to work through to complete it. I’m targeting end of the year for the 101 remaining tasks.

I may or may not fix the cock-up on the back right corner, don’t ask!

Fitz

 

[Cabinetman]

Looking good, I agree about the through tenons, can’t imagine why they ever did it that way to start with, but they were French.
What is the purpose of the wide gap up the middle? Mine will have one but only an inch for a planing stick.
"No it’s not a mistake I was going to have a shoulder vice but decided against it" or you could add a bit and create a notch, all the fashion over the pond on old Roman style benches.
Ian

 

[Orraloon]

That really is a big beast of a bench. A bench for a lifetime of work. A few lifetimes even.

 

[Fitzroy]

I’ve always planned a leg vice on the bench, having installed one on my temporary (5yrs old now) bench and fallen in love with it. I’d hung my nose over the benchcrafted hardware but just couldn’t bring myself to spend that much money. I also decided I wanted a wooden screw.

The main wooden screw options are a Lake Erie or a Veritas, neither of which seem to be available in the UK. I surfed the interweb for a while and bumped into a few options available in the USA. Luckily I have a team member in the US and a colleague who had a trip. So a mail drop and tool mule were arranged and a rather lovely vice screw is mine.

The original bench plan was sycamore throughout but it’s all looking a bit same same. I’ve had a piece of waney elm in the shop for a while but never thought it long enough to use for the vice chop, on the weekend I figured it was probably ok.

Final decision was on a pin board or a cross cross type mechanism. Again £150 on the benchcrafed cross cross was too rich for me and I’ve order some steel to make my own. A problem for future me to see if he can solve.

The workmanship on the vice screw, bar, ,garter, and nut is impeccable.

How do you make such a perfect thread!

The vice chop is a piece of burry elm, one big cavity and the burrs were all black epoxy filled.

Fitz

 

[Cabinetman]

I’m jealous of that thread! I’m just planning to make my own, even though I’m in the States myself. What make is it please? I may change my mind, especially after seeing yours!
I’ve designed a quick release (top and bottom) for my leg vice- quite a departure from the standard one. Should work but only one way to find out!
Ian

 

[Fitzroy]

I’m jealous of that thread! I’m just planning to make my own, even though I’m in the States myself. What make is it please? I may change my mind, especially after seeing yours!
I’ve designed a quick release (top and bottom) for my leg vice- quite a departure from the standard one. Should work but only one way to find out!
Ian

It was from an individual maker, bought on eBay from seller cobiecat, also on Etsy under GreenRiverDesign.

 

[Cabinetman]

That’s Brill thank you.

 

[Orraloon]

Have to admit to a bit of vice envy as well.
Regards
John

 

[Fitzroy]

As mentioned I’m going with a cross mechanism in the leg vice rather than a pin board.

The cross is made from 12x40mm bright mild steel bar, 460mm long. The pins are 10mm stainless steel. I order a new 10mm Bosch bit to make the cuts and was disappointed that the holes have come out at about 10.1-10.2mm. Not sure what I did wrong.

With the holes cut the two halves of the cross had oversized dowels hammered into holes, locking them in one. They could then have the ends ground round and symmetrical. The grinder was taken out the workshop as the level of sparks was intense.

All marking was done with a Sharpie pen as a bluing agent and then scratched in.

A large mortice is cut in the chop and a hole drilled for the rod. The rod hole is 215mm long, started on the drill press and finished with a long bit in the hand drill. I was ecstatic when it came through the other side only about 1.5mm off the mark!

Got the cross installed in the chop and hung off a jerryriged pin in the old leg vice. Looks like it might actually work!

Now I have to take the tops off the bench again so I can work on the vice leg, and trim the tops square.

Fitz

 

[J-G]

I order a new 10mm Bosch bit to make the cuts and was disappointed that the holes have come out at about 10.1-10.2mm. Not sure what I did wrong.

?? - if you want holes 'to size' drill smaller and finish with a Reamer - - - Simples!

 

[Fitzroy]

?? - if you want holes 'to size' drill smaller and finish with a Reamer - - - Simples!

Thanks J-G , I’m a metal work newbie so I’d made an assumption a drill would drill the hole size stated.

Hopefully the slightly loose fit will not prove a problem.

Fitz

 

[--Tom--]

Great seeing the progress

 

[J-G]

Thanks J-G , I’m a metal work newbie so I’d made an assumption a drill would drill the hole size stated.

Hopefully the slightly loose fit will not prove a problem.

Fitz

I could have been more specific. The size that a Jobber Twist drill actually cuts is dependant upon many factors. Even though you used a 'new' drill and you ought to expect it to cut to size, they are not precision ground and the tip will not necessarily be dead centre.

I also assume that you used a single drill rather than start with a 'cenrte drill' followed by a smaller drill - - - both of which will help to get the final drill cutting to size.

If you really do need absolute precision, start with a centre drill, drill out to within 0.5mm and finish with a reamer. It takes more time but it's the only way.