Adam W.
A Major Clanger
It's weird.
I did explain it - it makes perfect sense.Eh? That's daft. Why wouldn't you just worj out the output needed then get a stove with the output needed? Rather than more or less?
If you get one smaller, you needed less surely?
That's like knowing you'll need a car with an 80 litre fuel tank to undertake a journey but getting one with a 60 litre tank so you have to stop on the way.
Reminds me of Goldilocks - one too hot, one too cold, one just right!I did explain it - it makes perfect sense.
I was intrigued by this so asked one of my neighbours who runs a rather large and successful supply and installation business for wood burning stoves. His view was that he’d dismiss any of his team who did that. He also feels there is merit in what @Jacob has said when using a steel stove with no firebricks.All stove fitters and suppliers will tell you the opposite - work out the output needed then go one smaller.
How very dare you to have the temerity to come on here and suggest that there is more than one way of doing a thing.I was intrigued by this so asked one of my neighbours who runs a rather large and successful supply and installation business for wood burning stoves. His view was that he’d dismiss any of his team who did that. He also feels there is merit in what @Jacob has said when using a steel stove with no firebricks.
It seems opinions differ.
No problem, you close the dampers, that is what they are for. Did you read the instructions leaflet?I'll try again. The size of the stove worked out as adequate to raise the temperature to a suitable level for a room of a given size is for the coldest possible weather conditions, which may be just a few days a year. If this stove is chosen, for the rest of the winter you'll either be trying to burn a small fire
Nope.or trying to damp down one too fierce, one being inefficient use of fuel, the other being damaging to the flue.
The "odd day" is when you most need the extra capacity. It might even be the odd week or two in a bad winter.Economically it makes more sense to use additional heating for the odd day.
You'd better get in touch with Dowling - they seem to disagree with you. Dowling Stoves - InstallationIncidentally, this advice was given to me by both suppliers and three licenced fitters, but we might be at cross purposes. All were referring to multi fuel stoves - whether wood burners are different I wouldn't know. (I have a Dowling as well.)
It's worth bearing in mind that the methodology sanctioned by UK government legislation* (see links below) for calculating biomass moisture content (MC) is use of the 'Wet Basis' (WB) rather than the 'Dry Basis' (DB). The latter Dry Basis methodology is the one woodworkers use for assessing wood MC. Ready to Burn labelling is one example of how this dried wood and other biomass can legally be sold.Wood has around 5.3kWh of energy per 1kg regardless of species. Typically, firewood is bought by volume, hence if you can get a cubic meter bag of Oak and Spruce for the same price you'd be better going with the Oak. If it's dried to around 20% moisture, which is the new regulations I believe, you are paying for some moisture too, so 1kg @ 20% moisture has around 4.2kWh of energy. Modern stoves that burn the gases are around 80% efficient, so you've got around 3.3kWh of energy per kg of wood @ 20% moisture.
I'll try again. The size of the stove worked out as adequate to raise the temperature to a suitable level for a room of a given size is for the coldest possible weather conditions, which may be just a few days a year. If this stove is chosen, for the rest of the winter you'll either be trying to burn a small fire or trying to damp down one too fierce, one being inefficient use of fuel, the other being damaging to the flue. Economically it makes more sense to use additional heating for the odd day.
Incidentally, this advice was given to me by both suppliers and three licenced fitters, but we might be at cross purposes. All were referring to multi fuel stoves - whether wood burners are different I wouldn't know. (I have a Dowling as well.)
Apologies - I’ll make up for it next time sharpening comes upHow very dare you to have the temerity to come on here and suggest that there is more than one way of doing a thing.
me jotul f500,very good to, but to try and keep it in overnight it needs loading right up with good quality logs, damper closing, then the glass is filthy next day i have a 8 inch pumice chimney flue in good condition in a bungalow. can i ask what is your procedure pleaseI have had a few wood burning stoves and IMO the best one I have had is a Jotul, has an air wash down to keep the glass clean, still in use over ten years later, only one control and that is the air inlet, easy to use and keep in overnight.
I never bother trying to burn all night the UK is never that cold. Don't see the point. Just have to have small stuff and fire-lighters, or paper, on hand.me jotul f500,very good to, but to try and keep it in overnight it needs loading right up with good quality logs, damper closing, then the glass is filthy next day i have a 8 inch pumice chimney flue in good condition in a bungalow. can i ask what is your procedure please
Well yes.I agree. Wood stoves are so quick and easy to get going that I really see no need to keep it in overnight. Especially seeing as it makes the glass dirty and can potentially have ill effect on the flue....
never thought of that source of fuel,have to ask about.Well yes.
Had proof of the virtue of fast-burn-small-fire when stove expert came to clean/test for information for the buyers. He said our flue was a marvel to behold not having been cleaned for 10 years, no tars, no sign of internal damage, joints all sound etc.
Burning books at the moment as doing a big clear out.
Started with stack of Methodist hymn books which had been left by previous owners. Must be at least Fahrenheit 451º in there !!
Kept a sample for old times sake.
with underfloor heating the whole floor area is covered, does that make senseSo you think that the laws of thermodynamics have no relevance.......
Did it occur to you that the bigger the stove, the more steel to be heated...........??
According to your logic every radiator ever made should be the size of the wall its fitted to.......
Bonkers.....
hi Mike, lime is good for carving and turning, but I'd cut them into manageable pieces, the larger ones say into four, taking out the center (the pith ) to reduce cracking,,. You could turn the wood green ( plenty of videos on YouTube ) or store them somewhere away from heat, or to promote spalting, I've got a damp corner of my garden excellent for spalting add a couple of spades of well-rotted compost. there's that French turner who stores wood in barrels of water, ( YouTube again ) well have fun ,,AlfHaving a wood burner installed next week and have ordered a ton of kiln dried hard wood for this season.
During the recent storms a good sized lime came down on a mate's land. The tree surgeon was called and dealt with it as it was part in a neighbour's garden. All the branches and smaller stuff seem to have been removed, leaving these large rounds, up to a metre across
View attachment 170403
I can have the lot if I want it! Although I appreciate I'll need to season it for a couple of years. But, a lot of online resources suggest lime is no good for firewood - burns too quickly and no heat.
I'm therefore wondering if it's worth the effort? Anyone burning lime? If no good for the stove, what else could be done with them?
Thanks for any advice
Mike
Mine is the F600, double door front and side door, I don't clear out the ash at the bottom of the fire grate and just put a 500 long well seasoned Oak log on from the side door, close the air inlet and then open it a very small amount, the down wash facility works from the air tubes above the burning logs, flue is 150mm and about 8M highme jotul f500,very good to, but to try and keep it in overnight it needs loading right up with good quality logs, damper closing, then the glass is filthy next day i have a 8 inch pumice chimney flue in good condition in a bungalow. can i ask what is your procedure please
Mine is the F600, double door front and side door, I don't clear out the ash at the bottom of the fire grate and just put a 500 long well seasoned Oak log on from the side door, close the air inlet and then open it a very small amount, the down wash facility works from the air tubes above the burning logs, flue is 150mm and about 8M high
thanksMine is the F600, double door front and side door, I don't clear out the ash at the bottom of the fire grate and just put a 500 long well seasoned Oak log on from the side door, close the air inlet and then open it a very small amount, the down wash facility works from the air tubes above the burning logs, flue is 150mm and about 8M high
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