wolverine sharpening roughing gauge

[ThornOfCamorr]

Hello,

I'm very much at the beginning of my woodturning journey, so this might be a very stupid question...

I've sharpened my roughing gauge (got it 2nd hand) on the grinder using the oneway wolverine jig. I got a sharp edge, but I failed to grind it "square across". The tips left and right are of the same height and that runs perpendicular to the flute, but "middle" of the edge is shorter than the tips (kinda a bit like an inverse fingernail profile). Apologies for describing this clumsily, please refer to the pictures. I also noticed that the flute is not square to the handle.

I used the tool on the lathe and it cut brilliantly, although i had the feeling once tilting the flute to the side that the tips engaged more heavily, making it more prone to catches (I had a few, but all very controlled and not dangerous - this ofc can also be due to me still figuring out what I'm doing). I do wonder if the geometry of my tool's blade is the problem here.

I've looked at a few youtube videos on how to use the wolverine jig, but can't notice anything I'm doing different. On question here is: when grinding and turning the tool, do you aim to always grind in the center of the wheel or does that turning motion also mean you turn more on the left/right of the wheel?

I hope my question makes sense and I'm looking forward to your enlightening advice.

 

[Tris]

Looks like you are using the long arm of the jig, as you should, but the bent shaft is causing the change in angle.
You could use the adjustable platform close in to the wheel and rest the back of the flute on it. That way the handle angle is irrelevant. With the grinder off adjust the platform until the gouge is angled correctly to the wheel then you are good to start grinding.
You'll be taking a fair bit of metal off so take care not to let it overheat

 

[JerryP]

Hello,

I'm very much at the beginning of my woodturning journey, so this might be a very stupid question...

I've sharpened my roughing gauge (got it 2nd hand) on the grinder using the oneway wolverine jig. I got a sharp edge, but I failed to grind it "square across". The tips left and right are of the same height and that runs perpendicular to the flute, but "middle" of the edge is shorter than the tips (kinda a bit like an inverse fingernail profile). Apologies for describing this clumsily, please refer to the pictures. I also noticed that the flute is not square to the handle.

I used the tool on the lathe and it cut brilliantly, although i had the feeling once tilting the flute to the side that the tips engaged more heavily, making it more prone to catches (I had a few, but all very controlled and not dangerous - this ofc can also be due to me still figuring out what I'm doing). I do wonder if the geometry of my tool's blade is the problem here.

I've looked at a few youtube videos on how to use the wolverine jig, but can't notice anything I'm doing different. On question here is: when grinding and turning the tool, do you aim to always grind in the center of the wheel or does that turning motion also mean you turn more on the left/right of the wheel?

I hope my question makes sense and I'm looking forward to your enlightening advice.
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I find that using the Wolverine jig does produce a slight arc to the grind, but I think the amount you are getting is being increased by the bend in the tool shaft. If you use the platform, as Tris has suggested, you will mitigate the impact of the bend. Also, if you've been watching YouTube videos, you will have seen people marking the grind face with a felt tip and adjusting the angle of the platform until you get nose-to-tail coverage when the wheel is turned by hand. Provided you then keep the back of the gouge flat to the platform whilst you rotate it , you should get a good grind.

 

[ThornOfCamorr]

Thank you both - I've another roughing gauge I sharpened as well. It does not have a bend in the tool shaft. There i only have a very slight arc. So it really might be that. Tried earlier and could easily bend the shaft back... not sure what i should make of that yet

I've done the sharpy-method, but the bevel was so off, there was no sharpy required to see effect of the wheel