WiZeR Official Workshop Build Thread

[wizer]

yes its another workshop build thread and certainly not the first thread I have started on the subject...

Day 1

Rain Rain Bloody Rain! :evil:

Well this should be the first day of the build but unfortuneatly the man upstairs doesn't agree! It's been absolutely pouring all day. So today all I have managed to achieve is taking delivery of the wood...

and insulation

and this should give you a rough idea of how the build is going to go.

The design has changed over the weekend, after clearing out the build area, we decided the workshop was going to be too small. So I have added about a metre to it's length.

I'm still worrying about the roof. I'm quite happy about building the structure, it's the finish that worries me. It has to be done perfectly to prevent leaks. Might have a ring round see how much a pro roofer might charge.

Ah well not much more to say today, lets hope for a dry day tomorrow. [-o<

 

[George_N]

How will you access the side against the fence for maintenance in the future?

 

[wizer]

I wont be able to, it will be finished before it goes up and then the only access will mean taking out the fence panels

 

[StevieB]

Hi Wizer, the only thing I would be worried about there is standing water - your sketch seems to show the bearers on the floor - are you planning to isolate the timber from the ground surface in any way?

Steve.

 

[OLD]

Have a look at wicks roof system felt that will not tear and peel and stick application with long life it makes a nice job best done on a mild day for workability.

 

[wizer]

cheers OLD i'll have a look at that.

Steve

I have thought about that issue. I guess my options are to 1. Have a concrete floor with the walls mounted on brick courses. 2. Dig a soak away around the front and back of the base.

I think i'm leaning towards option 2 as I dont like the idea of concrete floor.

 

[ByronBlack]

Glad to see you get going Wizer! The roof isn't all that bad i've been working on mine again today it's going quite well despite me not liking heights!

Will be following your thread as it progresses!

 

[ColG]

Wizer,

That looks like an already solid base. Why not use paviours with DPC strips to support your base - if you have irregularities you could use some cheap floor tiles as "shims". That's what I did on mine and it worked very well.

Cheers

Col

 

[ByronBlack]

Wizer, with regards your foor, you could something similar to me. I laid a single course of bricks in 3ft centres, and then laid my 6x2 joists on them with a course of DPC between the bricks and timbers, I just a couple of wedges here and there to get the floor level - was relatiely easy if not hard labour to get all the joists into positions and fix the noggins into place.

 

[Inspector]

George_N
PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:40 pm Post subject:
How will you access the side against the fence for maintenance in the future?
WiZeR
PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:41 pm Post subject:
I wont be able to, it will be finished before it goes up and then the only access will mean taking out the fence panels

Any chance the fence can be removed and the shop wall extended out to replace it to gain a bit more floor space?

 

[SketchUp Guru]

I'm happy to see another shed building thread going. I think these are good for those coming along wanting to build. WiZeR (that's hard to type. ) I think you need to turn the studs on either side of the door 90° and double them up. Also double the header (make it at least a pair of 6x2s) across the top of the door and add studs between the header and the rafter.

I don't think that wall as it is drawn will have enough stiffness with the doors open.

 

[wizer]

That looks like an already solid base. Why not use paviours with DPC strips to support your base - if you have irregularities you could use some cheap floor tiles as "shims". That's what I did on mine and it worked very well.

That's actually kind of the current plan. If the weather is dry tomorrow then the plan is to find the levels and see how much shimming is needed.

The wood is tanalised, plus i'm going to paint it with cheap shed paint, then it's going to be wrapped underneath with a full sheet of DPM.

I know that is not bullet proof, but it should last out at least 5yrs (probably more), which will see me out of this house.

I think I will end up digging out the soak-away to take the running water from the sloping drive away.

Any chance the fence can be removed and the shop wall extended out to replace it to gain a bit more floor space?

Yes this was an option and our neighbour is very friendly, but for peace of mind i'd prefer to keep it as is. Once you put the gutter on then it prety much goes against the boundary anyway.

I think you need to turn the studs on either side of the door 90° and double them up. Also double the header (make it at least a pair of 6x2s) across the top of the door and add studs between the header and the rafter.

I don't think that wall as it is drawn will have enough stiffness with the doors open.

Thanks Dave, Actually I have allready planned to 'beef up' the front. The roller door that I am having requires 4x4 posts. So the whole front frame work will be made from 4x4's and i'm thinking about joining them using loose tennons.

Day 1 - Update

The rain stopped for about 45mins and allowed me to finish clearing the area ready to start tomorrow [-o<

The wood was delivered just as it started pouring down heavily and it didn't let up for about 2hrs. When it stopped I covered it up with tarp. But i'm worried about the sheet material.

The electrics are playing on my mind at the moment. I'd prefer the wiring to be run through the base, but i'm not yet prepared for it. I think I understand the basics of running the first fix wiring for sockets (an electrician will be connecting me into the ring main and doing all the dangerous stuff). However I'm more concerned with getting the structure up and dont want to be fiddling with wiring. I may have to make the base so that the floor can be taken up to run the cabling later.

 

[ByronBlack]

Wizer, like me you've been battling against the rain today, but aslong as your sheet material is covered with tarp, it should be fine. I've had my OSB under tarp (with holes in) and for a few days it's been rained on and got a little damp, but once the sun came out and dried them they were fine.

 

[dedee]

Good Luck Wizer,

I am an avid follow of these workshop build threads. I only hope that some of what you guys are learning sinks in to my grey matter for the day when I do mine.

Andy

 

[j]

WiZeR
Would it be possible to bring the wiring through from the first floor (if your roof goes that high. You could then go straight to a dedicated consumer unit for the workshop. Might be easier than going under the floor.

Also, I think it's worth looking at those fence panels and see if it's possible to remove them now and attach them with screws from the neighbour's side. At least then you'll have the option of access to that side of the workshop in the future.

HTH and good luck.
J

 

[engineer one]

WiZer,
good luck. the first thought about your long term roof problem is to remind you to put dpc between the top beam and the side of the house, and remember once the roof is on to put proper flashing over the top to direct the rain to the gutter.

i think i agree that it might be sensible to make the fence panels removeable on the other side.

good luck

paul :wink:

 

[wizer]

Would it be possible to bring the wiring through from the first floor (if your roof goes that high. You could then go straight to a dedicated consumer unit for the workshop. Might be easier than going under the floor.

Actually the electric meter is mounted to the side of the house just infront of where the new roller door will be. So the wiring will come in from the side and then be run through the base for sockets on the opposite wall.

Also, I think it's worth looking at those fence panels and see if it's possible to remove them now and attach them with screws from the neighbour's side. At least then you'll have the option of access to that side of the workshop in the future.

Absolutely genius idea! I'd never have thought of that! Thanks, I have now removed the screws from my side so now it should be easy to move the fence panels from our neighbours side.

the first thought about your long term roof problem is to remind you to put dpc between the top beam and the side of the house,

Not sure what you mean here Paul? Do you mean back the whole of the wall frame with DPM? I can't see the point in running just a strip behind the top beam? Or maybe I am barking up the wrong 2x4?

 

[engineer one]

wiz, call me a belt and braces man,but yes actually i would use
dpc between each piece of the frame and the wall.
But if not, then at the very least what you are trying to ensure is that
where water is most likely to get in, ie at the interesection of the
roof and wall, then you just have to ensure it is as difficult as
possible.

anyway from someone whose 'umble workshop is in a room,
well done and good luck.

paul :wink:

 

[wizer]

Day 2

HOT HOT HOT! 8)

Well the weather report was promising a little rain today and lots of cloud. So I was expecting a dull overcast kinda day. How wrong was I (and the weather man)! Thanks to all who wished good luck and did a little weather dance (or was that just me?), it seems it worked for today at least.

I started off at 9am cutting pieces for the base. My Dad arrived at about 10:30am and we quickly got the 2 base frames together. No real problems except a slight mis-measurement around the drain :roll: (my fault).

Dad had to leave at about 14:00pm so I couldnt continue framing. I spent the rest of the day cutting all the components for the 2 walls.

done me proud and made the job a breeze. Being able to cut two 2x4's at once saved a bit of time too. I left the dust bag on and it did filled up by the end of the day, lots of dust on the floor also.

Unfortuneatly my Dad can't help me tomorrow so I wont be able to do any framing. Because of space restrictions we have to construct the frames out on the road (quite cul-de-sac) and it's impossible for one person to move a frame back into place. I do have some jobs I can get one with. I'm going to paint all the wood with cheap shed paint, the dpm can be attatched to the base, then it can be laid down and leveled.

Hopefully with all the wall components now cut, Thursday will see the 2 walls erected, cladded and insulated. Also the front and back framing can be constructed.

Today has been really good. Maybe not as much got done as it could have, but i've enjoyed what we accomplished. The back seems to be holding out. I don't think its the lifting of heavy things that agravates it, more like the awkwark positions you end up in when nailing or 'persuading'. Tomorrow will also give me a chance to pop to wickes to check out the roofing materials.

phew...

 

[wizer]

cheers Paul, I will look into that.