WIP Competition Entry "Chess Table" FINISHED

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Lord Nibbo

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Well I've started to design a chess table that I'm entering in the competition. I'm happy with the actual table top which incorporates a drawer but I'm undecided with the this design for the legs. I might remove the cross brace and add stretchers or rails just a little lower than the top rails.
3477016339_cddeccc8d3.jpg

Here's a pic showing the drawer open.
3477825180_5a83f2b021.jpg


The materials planned are American Black Walnut because it's got to match existing furniture and I've got several planks that have been stored in the house for months, so no problems with it acclimatising. The lighter squares will be sycamore, and sycamore & ebony inlaid stringing.

Here in the Mk 10 version I've added Ebony stringing and Sycamore around the actual chess squares to see what it looks like.
3480353718_195dca7d64.jpg


No doubt the will be a Mk 11 coming to this screen soon :)


In the rules it states
------------------------

Appendix A – Design Brief

It is appreciated that design is a fluid process and that original intentions may change.


-----------------------

I just hope the finished table resembles the planned design I better get on with the MK 11 now while I got time :D
 
Nice.

You could consider replacing the leg cros bracing with semicircular stretchers to reflect the quarter circular curves in the top of the rails under the drawer.
 
Looks good LN.

Since I cannot post in the other thread, I'll post here. I wasn't complaining about the clash of pieces you and I were intending - just observing the coincidence :) . Yes I could go with my original idea, but as it happens the planes were more or less an equal option for me so it just pushed my decision that way.

Plus, this way I can nick all your best ideas for when I get round to making my non-competition chess board! :lol:

Cheers, Ed
 
I like how the top appears to be 'free' at the corners. One improvement I particularly like in this competition is that there's no obligation to submit an official design and stick to it. :wink:

...You're gonna run out of walnut one day, right??? :D
 
OPJ":1mr0f5b7 said:
One improvement I particularly like in this competition is that there's no obligation to submit an official design and stick to it.

Damn good job! In fact, it appears you never have to submit a design at all, unless I've missed something.

At the moment I haven't got a Scooby Do what my furniture is going to look like........and I'm guessing that half-way through the build it will only be very slightly clearer. All I know is that it will be at the other end of the spectrum to Lord N's marvellous looking chess table, and will involve sand-blasting.

Mike
 
Really like the design Lordy but I'd have to agree with you on the cross brace, think your higher stretchers would look better... Also they'd open up the space under the table for yer feet :-k
 
Nice looking project LN.

Glad i'm not in the Advanced competition.... :lol:

Cheers

Karl
 
erm, you will find that chess boards arent 8x8 these days.
They are mostly 10x10 due to european normalisation.


(what ? who said we couldnt play dirty in that competition ?)
 
Looks Good Your Lordship.

One consideration I have just thought of is that there is no room around the chess board to keep the pieces that have been taken or are you planning to keep the drawer open whilst playing.

Are you planing on making the chess pieces as well? A set based on woodworking tools might be a nice touch.

Jon
 
here is the poor "advice" i can possibly contribute:
Room/provision for a chess clock would be nice (a hidden drawer on the side maybe ?), i seem to observe sloppy sides to the ches board, which would make standing a clock difficult.
And joking apart, do not make the silly mistake of having naything else than black on the bottom left corner. I played for years without knowing this basic convention.
 
How the **** are you going to string this one out till October :D You'll have it done next week won't you. Looking good though

Mike you do realise that Rob is one of the judges don't you, sandblasting, driftwood, I can hear his teeth grinding already :wink:
 
JonnyD":3in84dus said:
One consideration I have just thought of is that there is no room around the chess board to keep the pieces that have been taken or are you planning to keep the drawer open whilst playing.

Are you planing on making the chess pieces as well? A set based on woodworking tools might be a nice touch.

Jon

No I'm not going to make the chess pieces, I've got a set of Staunton pieces already.

The drawer is right through, i.e. one drawer that will open both playing sides of the board, so when either player takes a piece it will be easier to put in the drawer. My first drawings did have a 3" space all around but it made the table too big, so I had to compromise and make it smaller.
 
Ironballs":1jgdl2fp said:
How the **** are you going to string this one out till October :D You'll have it done next week won't you.

I won't be starting it until after August has gone, cos I'll be off sailing soon :) and I've still got eleven doors to buy and fit before I think of starting this project. :(
 
JonnyD":1px0hu80 said:
Are you planing on making the chess pieces as well? A set based on woodworking tools might be a nice touch.

Jon

dont joke - swimbo wants me to make one of these with the pieces based on sheep and cows :shock:
 
Hi, Lord Nibbo

Can you still get your knees under? that brace looks like it will be in the way, I liked the cross brace.
You could do a H shaped one low down.


Pete
 
Racers":11bs13oz said:
Hi, Lord Nibbo

Can you still get your knees under? that brace looks like it will be in the way, I liked the cross brace.
You could do a H shaped one low down.


Pete

I should of posted a pic with dimensions :oops:

It''s only 20" or so tall and just under 20" square, I think I said in the "Design Brief Thread" It's going to second as a coffee table as well as a chess table. those legs are only 1" square at the top.
 
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