WIP: Competition entry - bookcase

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rkchapman

Established Member
Joined
22 Mar 2007
Messages
85
Reaction score
4
Location
Worcestershire
So, I've beaten Sketchup into submission enough to create a plan that the REAL adjudicator (my wife) has approved.

111866211.jpg


I know it's not the same both sides - that's because I'm still debating which version to use at the top and bottom - the finished version will use one or the other. I'll probably use Dominos for all joinery (thus fulfilling the "needs a new power tool" part of the design brief).

Next step is to try to work out what wood to use. The design incorporates a couple of features from other furniture in the room (for example the curved elbow at the top) and I want the wood to at least look similar. Unfortunately I don't know exactly what wood the furniture I am trying to match is - some sort of Indonesian oily hardwood with a warm reddish-brown color, and VERY heavy.

I was originally hoping to use oak as I have some, but I don't think it will look right with the other furniture even if stained. Leaning towards Sapele at the moment.

All comments on the design, choice of wood, practicality, durability etc of this design gratefully received. Never built anything anything like this before...
 
I like your design and think it would look good even if you went for the 'simpler' option on the right-hand side. :) As far as timber goes, sapele sounds like your best bet, without seeing any photo's of your existing furniture... There's also iroko but, with that requires a lot of caution over dust control as it can quite literally make you ill! :?

I'm scratching me head to think of a native species you could use... You may be able to source brown oak but, it's likely to be more brown or orange than the red you require. Staining can be a bit hit and miss if you've not tried it before.

Look forward to seeing that new toy put to good use. :)
 
I like the curved rail at the top. I don't like the bracket at the feet.

It is quite chunky, is that the intention?

If you feel the need for the bracket at the feet to stop racking then can I suggest a curved on to echo the top rail curve.

Looking good.

Mick
 
MickCheese":1ae0okjr said:
suggest a curved on to echo the top rail curve.

Yep I agree with this.

Nice design otherwise. What about Walnut or Real Mahog?
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

The wife agrees that curves at the bottom might be better (the original design was intended to match the feet on the sideboard rather than prevent racking...)

Something like this?

111920275.jpg


I discovered I have enough mahogany-veneer ply left over from previous projects for the shelves, and a plank of mahogany for lipping them. And I have a plank of mahogany-like (I hope!) "Lyptus" that seems to be perfect for the remaining parts:

111920254.jpg


(assuming I make no mistakes and my saw kerfs are infinitely small)

So I may use that.

Anyone used "Lyptus" for anything (and in particular together with mahogany?) The lyptus and the mahogany were both bought when I lived in the states so may not match what would be sold under those names here. But they look pretty similar to each other pre-finishing at least...
 
MickCheese":jghzr2sx said:
It is quite chunky, is that the intention?

Mick

Chunky is absolutely the intention! I'll try to sort out some pictures of the table/chairs/bench that this is designed to go with and maybe it will make more sense.
 
Hello Richard,

I like your design which appears to have a number of arts & crafts influences, the workman like proportions, through tenons.

Quartersawn oak would look good and would be in keeping with this line of thought.

Oak can also be fumed for a darker richer colour. I have not tried this myself and it would be an additional challenge.

Good luck with this project.

Cheers, Tony.
 
Adding those curves at the bottom has really helped to bring it all together, I think. :)
 
OPJ":duozj8tv said:
Adding those curves at the bottom has really helped to bring it all together, I think. :)
Yes, I agree with Olly and like the design for the top.

I'm also interested in where you found the wife approval plug in for sketchup! After going through that phase recently for a garden table and even marking it out on the decking, when she saw the basic sawn components I was told 'it will never fit' so I had to layout the main frame timbers to convince her it would. In future I will print off the design and get her to sign it (and any key dimensions!) - saves the debate.

On the topic of plugins I recently upgraded my cutlist plugin to V4 and discovered that it had the built in board layout tool that looks like the image you posted.....not sure if it was in the earlier V3, but if it was I never realised it.

Looking forward to seeing the progress.

Dave
 
I didn't know about the Sketchup cutlist plugin until you mentioned it - I may have to try that out.

Especially since I just realized that my hand-done cutlist has forgotten to include two pieces.

So it's back to plan A and trying to source some Sapele.

Which leads to another question / need for advice. What should I use for the shelves:

1. Sapele-faced ply/mdf (assuming I can find some).

2. Glued-up Sapele boards

3. The offcut of Mahogany-faced ply I already have

Leaning towards option 2 which would (a) allow me to learn a new technique and (b) allow the use of REAL (as opposed to fake) through tenons which might be better for resisting racking.

But that in turn leads to another question. If you have through tenons at either end of a glued-up board as I would have here, isn't there a potential problem with wood movement if the board expands (or contracts) more than the rail?
 
I also think it has a nice arts and crafts look to it, however I think you should go for the design in the original sketch (for the top), having a curved and straight side makes it unique and adds further interest, it seems to work too, they don't clash. It will certainly be a talking point with the piece.

Again agree that QS oak would be a very good material for an A&C bookcase
 
Back
Top