WIP 1st workshop come shed

[shortspark]

Hello, newbie here.

I've been reading various threads about workshop builds and have decided to add mine as it may be of interest.

In spring 2009 I started to work on the requirements of my first garden workshop and came up with the following;

1) Needs to be relocatable as we live in a rented house and will invariably have to move it sometime in the future.

2) Needs to be tall enough for myself being 6ft7 tall!!

3) Needs to work primarily as a workshop for my other addiction (restoring old vans)

4) Also being able to have a wood working area (If possible)

Having limited space I decided on a foot print of 3000 x 1800mm
(Sorry I tend to work in mm if possible)

I notice that most workshops here are built on either a concrete or paved base, I have decided to use two 3000x100x100mm runners supported on six building blocks set into the ground.
Is this suitable?

Some timber bought in Oct 2009

Timber being treaded in Nov 2009

Two coats later

Started to set footings 2nd Jan 2010!!!!

Any and all comments / suggestions welcome as I'm new to building workshops.

 

[shortspark]

Not sure why the pictures aren't visible....

 

[devonwoody]

Not sure why the pictures aren't visible....

Its a spam protection trap on any new poster, after a number of postings you will have no further problem.

Anyway looking at your weather you wont be posting pics. for a while. :wink:

 

[kasandrich]

Mike Garnham has made several postings on this subject, he is an architect and knows his stuff.

I will leave him to answer the footing question. But search for some of his previous advice. But in short from what I remember, walls should be, weatherboard outside, sitting on battens (tile batten from a timber merchants would suffice and is ready treated) the battens should be fixed over a breathable membrane onto the main frame, insulation between the studs, double studs in corners in an L shape. Lined with prefarably something rigid, I used 9mm Sterling board.

 

[shortspark]

Weather is bright though not very warm so I will try and progress this a little more this weekend

 

[Digit]

I notice that most workshops here are built on either a concrete or paved base, I have decided to use two 3000x100x100mm runners supported on six building blocks set into the ground.

I'd recommend either more blocks or heavier timbers, your method is the one I have used on several buildings so for what it's worth, my experiences. Lay the floor beams at about 16 inch centres, use 18 mil OSB, nothing thinner.
Aligning the blocks can be a problem, what I do is this. Place one for height, place all others lower! Put DPM on top of the blocks then place one beam down when the concrete is set. Put packings under the beam and on top of the DPM.
Use a good level plus a Laser to get all four corners the same height.

Roy.

 

[shortspark]

Here is a picture of what I have done so far, the two "runners" (3000x100x100mm) are placed on 3 blocks each and level'd using DPM as you mentioned Roy. The frame for the floor is made of 75x50mm timbers layed out at 400mm centers. The external dimensions of the floor would be 3000x1800mm. The floor will be made up of t&g floorboards.

Frame placed on runners

View along runner

Just need to nogins

 

[Digit]

Looks fine to me.

Roy.

 

[shortspark]

Looks fine to me.

Roy.

Thanks Roy

Fisrt time round your never 100% sure what way to do it.

 

[OLD]

Make a firm fixing to those runners, i can see this shed being dragged behind a car when you move next.

 

[Mcluma]

that is going to be very very heavy to move!!!

 

[devonwoody]

Perhaps on the wide web there is a shed built to a modular design that has each section completely mobile and movable by two people when taken from its original site.

 

[mickthetree]

we had a 7' x 9.5' shed installed last year. it turned up in 7 pieces on the back of a lorry. took the guys 25 minutes to erect it using coach bolts in pre drilled holes. all parts we pre-made and simply slotted into place.

They said that they regularly take them down for people when they move house and its just a case of unscrewing the coach bolts.

NB 7 = 4 sides + 1 floor + roof in 2 sections.

 

[devonwoody]

If there were further modules that could be added on, I suppose that would be modules of 6 pieces each time, and advertised as such I think they would have a winner.

 

[frugal]

Any and all comments / suggestions welcome as I'm new to building workshops.

You are going to need a bigger run up if you want to have any chance of using that ramp to jump the alley into the garden opposite.

I'll get my coat :lol:

 

[Mcluma]

What are those black tanks in the back of the garden, are that oiltanks or watertanks?

 

[Digit]

My home is timber and is built using six ft wide panels that bolt together, I would suggest that some sort of similar arrangement be used here if you intend taking it with you at some time in the future.

Roy.

 

[shortspark]

What are those black tanks in the back of the garden, are that oiltanks or watertanks?

They are the oil tanks for our house and the neighbours with the boiler's in the steel enclosure just in front of the oil tanks!!!! :shock: Took us 3 months to whitle out the heating issues between no burner and the boiler going on fire :shock: :shock:

My home is timber and is built using six ft wide panels that bolt together, I would suggest that some sort of similar arrangement be used here if you intend taking it with you at some time in the future.

Had been thinking of makeing 4no. panels and bolting them as you have suggested but wasn't sure how to deal with the corners :?

 

[Digit]

I'll attempt to explain the corner issue. There are two methods commonly used.
One, you make one panel at each corner so that the boards overlap the exposed end of the one that meets it at 90 degrees.
Two, you simply butt the ends then cover the joints with a board.
Hope that makes sense anyway.

Roy.

 

[shortspark]

Unfortunatly no progress the past weekend as this is what I was greated by in the morning :roll:

But it has got me thinking about how best to insulate the floor and my thoughts are;

DPC sheet on under side of floor frame
Rockwool (or equivalent)
Vapour barior??
Floorboards

I think it'll work.... :lol: