Why Wood?

[Harbo]

Being in a sharpening mood, I sharpened up the blades on my old Mathieson wooden jack plane and my 30 year old Stanley 4.

The Mathieson produced a lovely edge - the blade itself tapers from about 2mm at the "top" to 5mm at the cutting edge where as the Stanley is a miserly constant 2mm.
I know that the Mathieson is old, with the handles missing, but what a performance to set up compared to the Stanley.
Which makes me ask the question why bother with wooden planes?
They look pretty (as per Philly's) and feel nice but have they got any advantages over the metal "adjustable" ones? Am I missing out on something?

Going back to blades, is it worth upgrading the Stanley one - there is quite a selection of replacements to choose from including replacement chip breakers? Is it worth it or would the money be better spent towards a better quality plane (even a wood one )

Rod

 

[Philly]

Rod
Adjusting a wooden plane is a bit strange at first - persevere, it gets easier!
Place the plane on a flat surface, slide in the iron and put the wedge in , finger tight. That should give you a medium shaving. If you want a finer shaving turn the plane over, hold the plane and top of the wedge in the left hand and gently tap the back of the plane. That should give you a finer shaving. If you want a heavier shaving or need to adjust the iron left to right just tap the top of the iron with a small hammer. It becomes second nature after a while - it also is easier if the wedge fits perfectly.
As for replacement irons for Stanleys - there are a few options. Hock, Clifton, Japanese laminated, Lie-Nielsen. Take a look at Axminster or Classichandtools websites for prices. The only thing is if you buy a new iron and chipbreaker the cost is not too far short of a better quality plane :roll:
Hope this helps
Philly

 

[bugbear]

Which makes me ask the question why bother with wooden planes?
They look pretty (as per Philly's) and feel nice but have they got any advantages over the metal "adjustable" ones? Am I missing out on something?
Rod

http://workshop.tjmahaffey.com/workshop ... s1_anchor3

BugBear

 

[Harbo]

Thanks Philly and Bugbear - I am missing out on something.

Off to make some handles for the Mathieson!

Rod

 

[bugbear]

Off to make some handles for the Mathieson!

You may find some of this project by Alf applicable.
http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/planetote.html

plus this from me:
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/handle.html

BugBear

 

[ByronBlack]

I was considering this very fact recently when I was having problems with my 4 1/2 smoother. I'm now seriously considering investing or if I get time making a wood coffin smoother, your article bugbear has convinced me!

 

[lurker]

Bug Bear,

I've just had a look at your link & down loaded your PDF -thanks.

I have four planes very similar to the one you show in the article.
Have fettled the best one and use it (note to self get this out and learn how to use it properly) - what always amazes me is the shape & thickness plane irons on these compared to the stanleys.

Anyway - question: as I have others I thought I might experiment with one of the spares. What do you reckon to fitting some sort of horn at the front?

Byron might be open to a swop deal on one if you want to pm me. Certainly I can help you out with iron & cap as I have several spares.

 

[bugbear]

I was considering this very fact recently when I was having problems with my 4 1/2 smoother. I'm now seriously considering investing or if I get time making a wood coffin smoother, your article bugbear has convinced me!

For plane making (in this parish) Philly's the expert!

BugBear

 

[Harbo]

I have been reading the stuff and advice posted, but before I embark on making the handles, I am a bit worried about the strength.

The original Mathieson seems to have been made of beech and it has sheared off with the grain.
Unlike Alf's project it is not secured (and strengthened?) with a bolt fixing, but glued in?

So my questions are:
1. Is a simple wood one strong enough - if so what type of wood is best?
2. Should I try to fix it with a captive bolt arrangement to give more shear resistance?
3. Is it worth trying to make a laminated one - I have some sawn beech planks?
4. Has anybody got a pdf of a LN handle that Alf seems to prefer - or is that against copyright?

Thanks for any advice

Rod

 

[woodbloke]

A simple wooden handle ought to be adequate on a wooden jack. The bolt running thru' the centre of a Record or Stanley tote is there to simply fix it to the casting, I have seen plenty of planes in my old school where the handle has broken, so the bolt adds nothing to the strength. Beech is the traditional material for totes on wooden planes and is used in the solid, no need to laminate. That said, any reasonable hardwood would be suitable, preferably close grained. I'm in the process of tarting up an old Record No4 and have just finished making the totes in some English Walnut .......they've turned out quite well - Rob

 

[Alf]

Wot Rob said. If anything the bolt through seems to actively cause trouble in not allowing the natural movement. Chances are your Mathieson had a nasty drop right onto the handle and that's what busted it rather than anything else. I see surprisingly few broken handles on wooden planes, although later ones do sometimes have a dowel through the length for extra strength. As for the shape, for a wooden plane I'd use a wooden plane handle as a guide I think. The LN tote shape isn't particularly wonderful but happened to lend itself to the limitations I was working with, so take no notice of that. I can't off-hand think of an open tote design for a woodie online anywhere, but I'll have a bit of a goof this afternoon.

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

I can't off-hand think of an open tote design for a woodie online anywhere,

Me neither.

BugBear

 

[pam niedermayer]

Clark & Williams have open totes on their Jack and Panel Raiser/Fielder, check them out at http://www.planemaker.com/sample/

I have the Jack and love the handling.

Pam

 

[Philly]

Rod
Here's some step-by-step picsof my recent Jack. I had a vertical grain orientation for the handle and it has held up very well so far.
Hope this helps
Philly

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi there Harbo,

I prefer metal-bodied planes, but there are occasions when you need a purpose built wooden-bodied plane. Instance, I'm not aware of a metal plane with a rounded, cross-section sole that would allow me to clean up the inside of a bow door. I know some old workers used to leave the 'flats' as they were, but that's not for me. Also, as has been suggested, fettling a wooden plane is 'woodwork'. No argument there

Philly is quite right. Adjusting a wooden plane becomes automatic after a short while. It depends on how much fiddle you want.

In my case, I will admit, I just never got on with the beech planes in my schooldays. (We used to cast lots, for the few Stanleys and Records we had.) The fact is, I found the steel-bodied planes less clumsy to use, though not all that much easier to adjust, if you wanted it right. I got ideal results even back then, so I stay with them.

Modern Stanleys will need a better tote, so Alf's article is spot on. I have a couple of ‘resin handled’ planes and both of the totes cracked. I wonder if Alf thought about the front end too, and made a low set button?

So, Harbo, I hope you get on with your wooden planes. But for sure, take a look at Krenov’s ‘The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking.’ I think that will convince you there is definitely a place for them. (I liked the idea of using the heel of the plane, as a tote btw.)
At the end of the day, even a well fettled plane is only as good as it's blade. So keep 'em sharp!

Happy Woodworking


John
ccasion5: