thetyreman
Established Member
the bevel down ones don't have cap irons Ttrees, they have an adjustable mouth instead.
Hock Blades for Stanley no.4 and no.6
- Thread starter tibi
- Start date
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My tuppence FWIW: chip-breaker problems are more often caused by twist than by hogging or sagging [apologies for the naval terminology]. Screw on the CB, and check WHERE the gaps are. If they're symmetrical side-to side, that's hogging or sagging. If towards one side, that's twist. Cutting irons can also come twisted, but more rarely. To remove twist, it's between 'very helpful' and 'absolutely necessary' to have a flat diamond stone at leat 8" / 200mm long. Put the CB face down; put most of the pressure on the area around the screw-hole; skim off the twist from the front lip. Once the twist is out, turn it sideways, with the body below stone level, to relieve the back of the front lip, and allow the front edge to bite onto the cutting iron right across. CXjheck carefully, looking straight at the clamped-up cutting and CB irons. The SLIGHTEST gap will seriously degrade performance, and cause the plane to jam up.
I can now confirm that Hock blades and cap irons are very good and I can get thinner shavings, all else on the plane being equal. I have sharpened them only when I unpacked them and I did not notice that sharpening would take any longer than on the standard stock blade. But I will see after I dull the edge, as the factory edge was pretty sharp so not a lot of material was taken away.
The only think that I did not like was that they glued sharpening instruction to the blade and I had to scrape away 8 glue dots on both blade and cap iron and then use a solvent to get rid of the glue marks completely. If they just had the instructions loosely in the package, nothing bad would happen.
The only think that I did not like was that they glued sharpening instruction to the blade and I had to scrape away 8 glue dots on both blade and cap iron and then use a solvent to get rid of the glue marks completely. If they just had the instructions loosely in the package, nothing bad would happen.
???? Have you confused your ups & downs tyreman?
Cap-irons are only used on "bevel down" plane blades - they would serve no purpose on a BU blade other than to stiffen it, but that's more simply achieved by having a thick blade.
Cheers,
thetyreman
Established Member
I thought it was probably just a slip - I do it myself often enough!
johnnyb
Established Member
I brought a Ray illes blade for a carriage makers rebate and for £19 it was really outstanding tbh. buttery to sharpen but held an edge( these blades including hock are o1.)
the Japanese blue paper blades are my choice being laminated thin and hard(no foil edge)
the Japanese blue paper blades are my choice being laminated thin and hard(no foil edge)
Buy one and see for yourself. They're not that expensive in the grand scheme.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Hock blade good. Seems to hold edge longer, but takes longer to sharpen, so if freehand sharpening on oil stone there is no real advantage.
I'd rather take pot luck on an old Stanley/Record plane for a replacement blade, and can be cheaper.
I'd rather take pot luck on an old Stanley/Record plane for a replacement blade, and can be cheaper.
I've done the pot luck on yee ol' recorde stanfley and its worked out ok plus I have plenty of different irons to experiement over angles and whatnot
I've also bought quengishingilengiquenchi irons and they are thick AF but I don't really notice too much difference in real use between this and the older record stock (2.35mm v 2mm for record old v newer, my QS are 3.2mm which req a mouth agaping filing job)
I am not all that good at any of this atm so this may well have something to do with it (diminishing returns, marginal gains, etx).
Happy to be called an i.d.i.o.t (about this)
pabs
I've also bought quengishingilengiquenchi irons and they are thick AF but I don't really notice too much difference in real use between this and the older record stock (2.35mm v 2mm for record old v newer, my QS are 3.2mm which req a mouth agaping filing job)
I am not all that good at any of this atm so this may well have something to do with it (diminishing returns, marginal gains, etx).
Happy to be called an i.d.i.o.t (about this)
pabs
Attachments
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
I just took my own advice and bought this £13.60 inc P&P
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145220592619
Looked a mess but took about 10 minutes to get it to cut nicely. Still looks a mess though.
Thing to watch out for is how much blade is sticking up out of the top - the more the better. Can sometimes be hardly used.
Best ones are square across the top which seems to mean laminated - top quality but dirt cheap if you buy it in a rusty old plane. As good as Japanese "Smoothcut" which I've also got and can compare with others.
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