Why are my squares not square?!

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does nobody use a reference square? i have a starrett precision 200mm that just sits in a box until i need to check my combi or make a sled - so as long as i trust the reference square i know what and how to adjust.
 
I used to just use my big Moore and Wright for reference and setting up the carriage on the circular saw but as time goes on it's found its way into everyday use. In reality you pick up an out of square square pretty quickly IMO.
 
I must admit, I haven't come across a sqaure you can correct? That would be neat to have. Any links? I assume you mean it has an adjustable mechanism, like a Sliding Bevel square?

The M3 one mentioned above has some extra bits that look like they'll get in the way.
 
shed9":1zaezdup said:
Out of interest, does anyone have any experience of the Starrett K53 carpenter squares?

These things are available for less than 6 quid on amazon. Some of the reviews are terrible. I even wonder if they're actually made by Starrett as it's quite a departure from their usual price point!

Edit: Just checked and these do appear on Starrett's web site:

K53-14-N
 
transatlantic":10b04s35 said:
I must admit, I haven't come across a sqaure you can correct? That would be neat to have.
Paul Sellers has one or two pages on how to adjust a trad try square if it's of interest. They're from a few years ago so there are more typos and the wording could be a little clearer in places but you can pick up what he's going on about. There are also other guides out there online to doing various tweaks, including using lapping or filing techniques.

But in the UK with secondhand try squares being abundant and cheap I'm not really sure it's worth it TBH. I'd do it, but that's because here older try squares in good condition show up at car boots about as often as 52 1/2s in good nick for a tenner. Which is to say, never :(
 
ED65":kgtczl48 said:
transatlantic":kgtczl48 said:
I must admit, I haven't come across a sqaure you can correct? That would be neat to have.
Paul Sellers has one or two pages on how to adjust a trad try square if it's of interest. They're from a few years ago so there are more typos and the wording could be a little clearer in places but you can pick up what he's going on about. There are also other guides out there online to doing various tweaks, including using lapping or filing techniques.

But in the UK with secondhand try squares being abundant and cheap I'm not really sure it's worth it TBH. I'd do it, but that's because here older try squares in good condition show up at car boots about as often as 52 1/2s in good nick for a tenner. Which is to say, never :(


Sorry - I meant re-settable
 
Just to catch up...
When "testing" my squares I've been using a sheet of MDF that I've run the plunge saw along... I'm confident in its straight/trueness in that I've checked with many other straight edges etc Thats not to say all my straight edges arent bent in the same way, before someone else says it :lol:

I test by squaring off that straight edge, draw a line with my 0.5mm mechanical pencil in a vertical position, then flip the square over and draw over the line in the saem fashion. As its a 0.5mm lead, its easy to see when its fatter or even divergent from original.

I'll try the parallel lines, and using a knife suggestion(s) :)

I dont drop or mistreat my squares, I dont tend to take the ruler out of the combi square, but it does get moved if that makes a differece

Cheers for the replies thus far
 
I went through a phase of doubting some of my squares before I realised that my checking method was inconsistent. I still find it quite hard to do because flipping the square changes the orientation of your hand/pencil/knife to the straight edge your running it against. I now tend to doubt my method more than the squares. Big squares are the hardest to prove for this reason and I remain dubious about my biggest one.
Transatlantic's idea of using a straight edge rather than a drawn line sounds like its worth trying. I'll give that a go next time I feel the urge.
 

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