Which Router

[Joe Shmoe]

Hi all.

Im trying to get into woodworking and take on a few more DIY projects around the house etc. My first project is gonna be these double gates for a friend:

http://www.buildeazy.com/house_property ... page1.html


Im gonna need a router to cut some channels in the timber. I hear alot of people favouring the Trend T11, but thats a lot of money for a beginner to spend. Will something like that be benifical to me, or as a DIYer, could I get away with something cheaper?

I dont want to scrimp and end up getting something I will regret, but I dont what to pay out alot of money on something that I might never use to its full potential.

 

[Paul Chapman]

If you can stretch to a trend T11 or DeWalt DW625, I would say get one. They are very well designed and made (based on the old Elu MOF177 which was one of the best routers ever) and excellent value for money.

You can pick up much cheaper routers at the various DIY sheds but in my experience they are rubbish by comparison.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Steve Maskery]

If you do get into woodworking, you will never ever regret buying quality tools. They don't just last longer, they give better results along the way and are more enjoyable and less frustrating to use.

If you are starting out, do you want a (not very high quality) jigsaw?

S

 

[Joe Shmoe]

and less frustrating to use.

Your right - I will try to afford the best I can.


There are 2 models on screwfix (Trend T11ELK + Trend T11EK). Can anyone tell me what the difference is ?

Also, I see there is a T10 model. What is that like?

 

[mailee]

I would also have a look at Freud and Hitachi as these are also good routers. I have a collection of them and although I view the De Walt 625 as the best of the bunch it is expensive. Try looking on e-bay as they often have bargains on there. I would definitley not recommend buying a cheap one as although it will do the job you will get frustrated at it and wish you had paid the extra buck. JMHO :wink:

 

[Mr Ed]

When I started out I managed without a router for ages on the grounds of cost. When I first bought, I did it on the cheap with a B&Q one, that was useless. I then bought the smallest Trend router that was also useless.

Finally I went for a DeWalt 624 (same as 625 without variable speed - couldn't afford the 625 at the time!) and have found it superb. Had it for 6 years now and still as good as the day I bought it. I also have the larger DeWalt 626 (2300W, variable speed) in my router table - its perfect for this although a bit hefty for handheld use.

I would definitely go for a 1/2" router.

My advice is buy once and buy quality - I would go with the DW625 as others have said - you won't regret it.

Cheers, Ed.

 

[davegw]

I'm probably the exception that proves the rule here, I made do with a Bosch router for about 5 years (got three now including the trend) and it was fine. I guess it depends what you use it for, but it did me proud while I was starting up. I'd agree with the 1/2" though.

 

[mailee]

Your not alone there Dave, I started out with a Bosch 600 router and even used it in a home made table! It did take some work to cut most things but I made do. Later I decided that a 1/2" router was the way to go and bought a Power Pro one eventually replacing it with a decent one (Hitachi) I now own 9 routers and wouldn't be without them most of them are quality router with the exception of the TrendT5 and all have given me good service for years now. Oh and as for the Power Pro, it now props open the door in the summer. :lol:

 

[starcott]

ELK is 110 volts, EK is 240 volts.

 

[Tusses]

why do people have lots of routers ?

one for a table and maybe a big and small one for hand held work, but what is the need for any more ?

am I missing a trick ?

 

[davegw]

why do people have lots of routers ?

one for a table and maybe a big and small one for hand held work, but what is the need for any more ?

am I missing a trick ?

Three Routers, 3 Circular Saws, and at one point 5 Power Drills (cords and Cordless), as well as 3 sanders (all different sizes)

Why?

No idea!

Will I stop - Credit Crunch aware so yes - but only for a while

 

[apj101]

can someone help elobarate on the advantages off a quality expensive router. I have a cheapo B&Q mcallister router for about 60 -70 quid i think....it plunges smooth and has variable speed. its got a flat square bottom. Sure the depth gauge is rubbish, but who actually relies on the measuring ruler of a depth guage, you just set using shims/scrap wood of the right depth.

i guess there could be a power issue, in that the router may struggle on really hard woods, but as long as you keep the bits in good sharp condition i dont see why it would be a problem.

so what am i missing out on???

 

[Argee]

Can someone help elobarate on the advantages of a quality expensive router?

Usually, the "advantages" depend on how much use the tool will get. If it's for "weekend warrior" use, then it's possible to pay too much - relative to use - for the project in hand. For the new user, the tool will not be able to be compared with anything else, so the experience of a budget tool may be satisfying on its own, at that time.

However, if the tool is bought to "grow into," then quality is a factor that should be seriously considered, not only for longevity. Other reasons include:

• Quality of the component parts - reducing the likelihood of a breakdown
  Bearing quality - both motor and plunge bushes
  Switching method - string, rubber band, velcro or "proper" switch
  Ability to prevent the ingress of dust, particularly MDF dust, by good seals or shrouds
  Availability of spares, particularly consumables (brushes) and their price
  Ease and safety of bit-changing. One or two wrenches required?
  Effective and robust spindle lock, if fitted
  High-quality collet chuck(s)
  Quality fence, preferably with micro-adjuster, to ensure repeatability

The list is not meant to be exhaustive, but that's most of the features I would be checking for in a quality product.

Ray

 

[apj101]

Can someone help elobarate on the advantages of a quality expensive router?

Usually, the "advantages" depend on how much use the tool will get. If it's for "weekend warrior" use, then it's possible to pay too much - relative to use - for the project in hand. For the new user, the tool will not be able to be compared with anything else, so the experience of a budget tool may be satisfying on its own, at that time.

However, if the tool is bought to "grow into," then quality is a factor that should be seriously considered, not only for longevity. Other reasons include:

• Quality of the component parts - reducing the likelihood of a breakdown
  Bearing quality - both motor and plunge bushes
  Switching method - string, rubber band, velcro or "proper" switch
  Ability to prevent the ingress of dust, particularly MDF dust, by good seals or shrouds
  Availability of spares, particularly consumables (brushes) and their price
  Ease and safety of bit-changing. One or two wrenches required?
  Effective and robust spindle lock, if fitted
  High-quality collet chuck(s)
  Quality fence, preferably with micro-adjuster, to ensure repeatability

The list is not meant to be exhaustive, but that's most of the features I would be checking for in a quality product.

Ray

i agree all those factor are important, and im only a raw beginner myself, i agree that my router will probably die in a year or so, but i kinda find people always suggest buying the best possible, yet in reality it would take a woodworker years to reach the limitations of a mid-budget tools, and by the time that point is reached the user will know what they want and need from a tool and will be better able to invest in a quality tool at that stage, rather than shelling out lots of cash up front.

 

[Argee]

i agree all those factor are important, and im only a raw beginner myself, i agree that my router will probably die in a year or so, but i kinda find people always suggest buying the best possible ...

That's usually because you get what you pay for.

yet in reality it would take a woodworker years to reach the limitations of a mid-budget tools, and by the time that point is reached the user will know what they want and need from a tool and will be better able to invest in a quality tool at that stage, rather than shelling out lots of cash up front.

It doesn't take years to reach the limitations of some tools - a day is sometimes enough. You need to realise what you want before buying to get the best value. Whether they would be better placed to "shell out" sooner rather than later is an individual matter. If you get the best, you only pay once. Long-term, that makes sense. You asked for an opinion, that was mine.

Ray.

 

[p111dom]

I agree with Agree. I started off routing out speaker assemblies when I was 17. For this I bought a used B&D 1/4 inch router from a boot sale. Burnt it our in less than a week. Bought another one, think that lasted 2 weeks. So on and so on. Then I bought a 1/2 used Hitachi again used but this was a quality professional tool. To be honest it was at the end of it's life again but it showed me the difference between the cheap crap I had been struggling with and what a router should be. It lasted about a year and I eventually paid out more money than I could afford at the time on a good condition Elu. I've never regretted it. I think it can be a bonus to start with Warehouse tools as when you try a quality tools you have something to compare it to. In retrospect I can't believe all the money I wasted buying rubbish tools. Even at £30 a pop I must have been through 10 which would have easily covered the cost of a quality tool from the beginning. You thing the plunge is good on the cheap routers? It may be new but see what it's like after a week of moderate use. I have had numerous problems with the cheap stuff. Vibration causing the locking mechanism to release raising the bit and ruining the cut. Stalling. Snatching. Problems with getting spares. Most worryingly of all is the state of some of the collets. It doesn't just go for the router though. Hands up those who have bought a cheap set of bits and had one of them shear off? I've had a few over the last 15 years.

 

[davegw]

i agree all those factor are important, and im only a raw beginner myself, i agree that my router will probably die in a year or so, but i kinda find people always suggest buying the best possible ...

That's usually because you get what you pay for.

yet in reality it would take a woodworker years to reach the limitations of a mid-budget tools, and by the time that point is reached the user will know what they want and need from a tool and will be better able to invest in a quality tool at that stage, rather than shelling out lots of cash up front.

It doesn't take years to reach the limitations of some tools - a day is sometimes enough. You need to realise what you want before buying to get the best value. Whether they would be better placed to "shell out" sooner rather than later is an individual matter. If you get the best, you only pay once. Long-term, that makes sense. You asked for an opinion, that was mine.

Ray.

I agree with Ray, even the humble Bosch Router I talked about earlier wasn't the cheapest, I believed it was the best value given what I needed it for (and might in the future) at the time. I can also give you a good example of how I might have saved money.

I, because I couldn't afford anything else at the time, once bought a Power Pro Saw table, that you attached a circular saw too (it would also act as a router table) - the idea being that it was a good way to save a few quid and get me what I needed at the time, namely a table saw and a router table. It was c**p, I've never been able to use it sensibly as a table saw - it's never cut anything straight, the fence is useless and I have to use cable ties on the saw to keep the power on. I never bothered setting it up as a router table as it was so fiddly it really just wasn't worth it. Interestingly at the time I could have afforded a triton workcentre which in time could have grown to meet all my needs. All I needed to do was a little research and a little thinking about the future.

So my advice - always go for the best VALUE tool given what you are trying to achieve.

P.S. I reckon I could have got a second hand triton for nearly the money that the Saw table thing cost (just over £100) and if I hadn't of got on with it sold it for similar money. The Saw Table thing is now only worth what I could get for the scrap ally

 

[mailee]

why do people have lots of routers ?

one for a table and maybe a big and small one for hand held work, but what is the need for any more ?

am I missing a trick ?

I have so many routers as I like them. :lol: :lol: No seriously though I have routers set up for various jobs. I have two routers for cutting dovetails one for the pins and one for the tails. I have one in a table and a spare just in case. I have a 1/4" hand held for sign making and a larger 1/4" for small work. I have a large 1/2" handheld for most jobs around the shop and another for kitchen worktops. And finally I have another 1/2" as a spare. I hate the thought of one of them breaking down in between a job. Hope this helps you understand my logic even if it may be overkill. :wink:

 

[mailee]

There is nothing wrong with starting out with a cheap router and finding out just how cheap they are as I should imagine a lot of us on here have done but this is what these forums are for isn't it? sharing knowledge. Why buy something cheap which you will soon grow out of when you have the vast experience of guys on here. There is no need to shell out mega bucks for the best available as you could always buy second hand to start with, (I did) When this one finally goes bang you can then buy brand new if you wish. I know I would never dream of buying anything now without asking on here even though I have been doing this for 20 odd years. There is no substitute for experience and a lot of us have been there and done that so it is always worth asking. Then make your decision cheap or expensive. Hth. :wink: