which planes do i actually need

[lwilliams]

...i'm poised at the top of the plane "slope" so before i tip over the edge and hurtle down hill in a wild buying spree - what do people think i actually need. ( I know the concept of only buying what you need is an alien one , but i'm trying to rstrain my wilder urges ) ...

The highly evolved endeavor of hand tool woodworking hasn't really changed much in the last couple centuries. The wood is the same and the tasks haven't changed. In spite of today's "every plane is a smooth plane" mentality out there, a smooth plane is pretty limited in its capability. Probably the best compilation of hand planes and their uses was published in 1736 by Richard Neve in his Builder's Dictionary. With the planes Neve lists one can build just about anything they can dream of. Here's his list:

 

[Tom K]

So your block plane appears to be a #28 Transitional Foreplane almost a complete separate slope 8)

 

[big soft moose]

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so according to that list i basically need 4 planes (or maybe 5 or 6 if i have a few smoothers)

a fore plane , a long plane , a jointer, and a couple of smoothers

I figure i dont need the rabbett, strikeblock, plough, moulding, and snipes bill on account of having a dewalt 612 router.

plus there is also the mujingfang micro which doesnt fit that list but ought to come in handy for something, even if i'm not sure what.

so one last stupid question for the time being , from that list where does the jack plane come in ?

 

[Tom K]

so one last stupid question for the time being , from that list where does the jack plane come in ?

Fairly interchangeable description with foreplane

 

[Mikey R]

Also, the long plane seems to be nearly extinct, the nearest metal plane you will get is a no 8, and most folks here get by with a no 7.

In Bailey terms, that list looks like:

* Smoothers: a no 3, 4 or 4 1/2,
* Jack / Fore: a no 5, 5 1/2 or 6,
* Jointers: a no 7 or 8.

Or the transitional alternatives

Ive got the 4 and 7, and Im thinking about getting a 5 1/2 from Clifton.

Ok, Ive also got a no 26 transitional jack, and a very old no 6 without the frog adjustment screw, but they havent been cleaned up yet. The slope at work.

Oh, and Ive also got a couple of new block planes and an old woodie smoother. Must get these all tuned up some day!

 

[Anonymous]

As most here know, I have quite a few planes and they are the tool I use most often.

I recommend:
A jointer (#7 or #8 ) and a small smoother for smaller parts are very useful (#3)

For the shooting board, I always found a #6 very good with its reasonable weight and thus inertia. I use a #9 on the shooting board now and it is far better.

A couple of spoke shaves and a compass plane if you want to work on curved pieces

Finally, a skew block is very useful

 

[Mikey R]

For the shooting board, I always found a #6 very good with its reasonable weight and thus inertia. I use a #9 on the shooting board now and it is far better.

Hi Tony, Ive only recently got the hang of shooting, but Ive had (fairly) good success on shooting with my no 4.

I'll have to try the no 6 when I get it back in good condition. Cheers for the suggestion!

 

[Vann]

I figure i dont need the rabbett, strikeblock, plough, moulding, and snipes bill on account of having a dewalt 612 router.

Until you forget to pay the 'lectricity bill. :lol:

Cheers, Vann

 

[FatFreddysCat]

For installing (site) I use:

Adjustable mouth block plane
Low angle jack plane (which always gets a few comments)
1in shoulder rebate plane
*Bull nose rebate plane
Spokeshave

Even there the bull nose is really a luxury. For workshop I also use:

Carraige rebate plane
*Compass plane

The compass plane is a luxury, but has its' uses, such as working curved counter edgings, etc. , but it, too, is a luxury.

Between them the low angle jack and block plane will do most of what I need, because I rarely need a smoother for much. Unless you are routinely planing stuff more than 4 or 5 feet long a jointer is a luxury. The shoulder rebate is useful for cleaning up housings and tenon joints as well as blending in hardwood skirting joints, etc. The bull nose is a luxury as most of its' duties can be performed by either the shoulder rebate or a decent sharp chisel. The carraige rebate is ideal for cleaning-up multiple pass door frame rebates. I should add that I also use a power planer to do most of the hogging work simply because it's faster and much less effort.

This lot will go home with me at weekends for work on the house and for doing foreigners. They work well but a decent set will still cost around £500 to £600 new if you omit the compass plane and bull nose.

I figure i dont need the rabbett, strikeblock, plough, moulding, and snipes bill on account of having a dewalt 612 router.

You DO need a rebate plane. How else can you fair-in tops of skirtings, clean-out housings (when you have to cut them into already fixed pieces) and tidy-up multi-pass rebates because your router leaves witness lines (like in a door frame)